Micro Guides

[medicpelle]

I'm ordering supplies for my first rod and had a few questions on the guides.

1. What size guides will I need?

2. How many will I need of each size?

3. And what would be the recommended spacing?

[Obed]

you need to provide so much more information
the generic answer is that you can use from the choker for spinning and all or a part for casting.
spacing and number depends on the blank and application
do you really want to wrap micros on your first build?

[medicpelle]

Rod is a 7' heavy with a fast tip being used for jigs 3/8 and up for casting. Rod will have split grip with fugi ACS seat. as far as the micro guides i want all my rods to have them except for my spinning rods so why not start out with micro guides? What is the difference in the procedure between them and "standard guides"

[Chris Davis]

Medic-
They are a little tougher to attach to the blank for wrapping-different ways from using tape to tie-wraps to monofilament line. You need to use the Forhan locking wrap with them which isn't hard but requires some practice. Spacing can only be determined by static testing with guides temporarily attached-don't put much stock in pre-determined spacing guidelines-different for different actions and blank powers. The term "micro" means different things to different people-I consider it to mean size 4 or smaller. A good comfortable place to start would be Fuji Alconites in size 4. The leg is a little longer than found on the Batsons. After that 1st one if you choose to go smaller you can.
Consult Library section on rodbuilding.org for static testing procedure, finish application, and the Forhan locking wrap.
The micros can be used as running giudes on you spinning rods. The only thing limiting going super small on your guides is whether you will be using a line setup that involves knots needing to pass through the guides-such as a braid main line with attached mono or flo. carbon leader. GOOD LUCK

Chris

[Obed]

micros will be harder to wrap, harder to test, just plain harder to work with
here is a generic pattern to start with, but your blank will dictate actual placement.
This is just a start and your placement may differ. The rule of thumb is the length plus one for number of guides. Your rod will then most likely have 8 guides, however, I have found with micros, you may need to add one to keep the line off of the blank. Tape up the guides as below and test, move, add, remove as needed. good luck
7' hvy, 9"rear grip, non-flipping, 4 to 6 tip top depending on availability and tube size- (guide # ring size mm inches from tip)
1st 04 4"
2nd 04 8"
3rd 04 12"
4th 04 16.5"
5th 04 21.5"
6th 04 27.25"
7th 04 33.5"
8th 04 41.25"
9th 08 49.25"

[medicpelle]

Thanks you. I was not aware of the different wrapping method needed when using micro guides. I believe this is something I will research. I am going to start out on a couple of cheap blanks from mudhole then go from there. Any advice will greatly be appreciated. As far as the tip size if the blank says tip as a 7 is that the tube size on the tip itself?


Modified by medicpelle at 2:00 PM 4/19/2009

[Obed]

sounds like you have a 7/64th tube size. You'll either have to split the tube on a micro top, or go with a size 6. Good luck

[thedude]

micros are by far the EASIEST guides to wrap!

instead of fussing with tape, glue, zip ties, whatever - simply run the tip of the guide foot under a loop of thread (like you would wrap in a trim band or pull-through loop). The guide foot should be on top of about 2 wraps of thread. The guides are so light/small the single wrap will hold it in place. Wrap about 6 or 7 times down the foot,(the tip of the foot will be sticking out still) then gently pull back on the guide. the foot will slip past the wraps it was on top off and you will never know you didn't ramp up the guide like you would normally do. Pack the thread on the top of the foot with your fingernail to keep it straight after you pull it out. Continue with a locking wrap and you're done.

I use a DF6, SF5 bumper, SF4 (first 180*) and SF3s for the rest of the way. Lance at swampland recommended this setup and its just enough to keep the line off the blank.

[medicpelle]

I'm gonna have to practice the locking wrap. It's hard for me to learn it by reading it if I could watch someone it would probably be a lot quicker for me.

[walnutshoe]

Practise the Forhan on a Y style SF5 or 6. The additional height off the blank will let you make the loop around the ring much easier. I finger pinch the thread against the blank just befroe getting to the ring to hold tension on the wrap and pull enough slack from the feed to make the loop and then pull the slack. The SF micro guides took some retraining of my fat fingers, but the process stayed the same for me. Two locker loops are all I have been able to fit on some of the micros and keep clearance to the ring bottom.

[Timberwolf530]

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thedude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">micros are by far the EASIEST guides to wrap!

instead of fussing with tape, glue, zip ties, whatever - simply run the tip of the guide foot under a loop of thread (like you would wrap in a trim band or pull-through loop). The guide foot should be on top of about 2 wraps of thread. The guides are so light/small the single wrap will hold it in place. Wrap about 6 or 7 times down the foot,(the tip of the foot will be sticking out still) then gently pull back on the guide. the foot will slip past the wraps it was on top off and you will never know you didn't ramp up the guide like you would normally do. Pack the thread on the top of the foot with your fingernail to keep it straight after you pull it out. Continue with a locking wrap and you're done.

I use a DF6, SF5 bumper, SF4 (first 180*) and SF3s for the rest of the way. Lance at swampland recommended this setup and its just enough to keep the line off the blank.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I found these a couple of years ago. They are the best thing I have ever seen to hold guides in place temporarily.
http://www.orthomechanic.com/store/home.php?cat=12

I use the OEL18L for the thicker part of the blank, and the ETTGRAY for the narrower part. They're very narrow, they hold great, and they are easy to move when setting up the spacing.