99 225 FICHT POSSIBLY BLOWN NEED HELP

[THERAKE]

I have a 99 225 ficht that ran very well this morning to first hole about 5 miles after warm up fished for about 45 min and cranked up to go to next spot trimmed down and gave it gas didnt feel like it had any power tried to limp over would only turn 5000 rpms then then the no oil light came on shut off immdiatley took out of gear new it had plenty of oil just added 1 gal of xd50 2 days ago didnt even run out 1/2 tank of fuel between times, checked anyway almost full. recranked engine bulb testwas ok no noise no lights still no power. went on to second holefished then tried again after it cooled off and still same problem. finished tourny but barely made to weigh in finally started missing on third try but no abnormal noise at this time then on the way back to weigh in would notrun hardly had to try and keep running would noteven idle with eng all the way down had to run with eng tilted pretty high. weighed up and put back on trailer pulled plugs found starboard side bottom plug fuel fouled and very wet,but no sign of metal on plug. looked as good as possible in cylinder no scoring visable at this time will check tommorow with bore scope checked compression by hand without guage and very low on problem cylinder and seemed much higher on companion cylinder.I dont have ficht software to check codes but I dont know how to check oil pump either. could this thing have went into a limp mode with no lights on? please any knowledge is welcome. Thanks in advance

[lkhartwl]

as always read rule 1 and post your model and serial numbers this may help in seeing what upgrades and updates and service may have been done to the motor. with those numbers, and without numbers on compression and looking in the cylinder hole with a flashlight you can not be sure if it is a pin hole or the wrist pin came out or what. repost with numbers and the gurus should be able to help

[Garfish]

Ditto what Steve says, but if #6 has no compression and there are no clanking sounds, you probably have a hole in the piston.........

[ChampioNman]

Wouldn't go into SAFE/SLOW mode if an injector leaned out. Only way you can tell is to put a compression tester and pull the stats from the ECU. If #6 is just blown put a new piston in it and have the block honed out. If indeed it is a bad injector then you can just replace the injector also. A good shop can tell you all of that.

[Bassmeister]

The good news if you can call it that, is if it's a hole in the piston and an injector is bad some of the 99 model year had non-compensating injectors meaning the ecu-emm dosen't have to be set to the new injector. Some of the gurus here will know for sure, if you post up your model and ser #'s

[wv21ss]

might not be what your asking, but i cant help but say that the engine light and alarm is there to prevent major problems. when the light and alarm went off and it shut down then restarted with no power you should not have run it any longer. you may have caused some damage that wouldnt have happened if you had not continued to run it.

[THERAKE]

well I have some #s and the model #is e225fpleed and the serial # is g04707198 production date 04/1999 the compression #s are #125 psi #3 is 124 psi #5 is 108psi #2 is 119 psi #4 is 120 psi #6 is 120 psi note that the # 5 plug was very wet ans let sit from tues afternoon till tonight and checked with out adding oil to cylinder that was wet with gas yesterday I had let sit overnight in my shop with no plugs in it I then added a few drps of xd50 to cylinder and spun over with no plugs then tested problem cylinder again psi came up to 120psi but went back through all cylinders to confirm #s and when retested problem cylinder again it was back to 108psi so as far as a burnt piston I dont think that is the case. I looked in cylinder wall with borescope and dont see anything abnormal other than piston is somewhat cleaner due to fuel wash out. still no sign of metal damage or piston trouble. Now I have to figure out this no oil light situation and then assess damage. I do totaly understand what the warning systems are for thats the reason for shutting off imedeatly. when I recranked the light nor buzzer was on. the lack of power started on the crank cycle before any lights. thanks in advance for any help or advise.

[Danrude]

If I were you I would address the fouled plug first! Put a timing lite on the #5 plug wire and see if you are getting fire. You may have a bad coil or even a bad plug. Then do a de-card to see if you have a stuck ring.

[THERAKE]

thanks for the help everyone I did some reserch and found a couple of pieces of weird looking sheet metal inthe bottom of my air box removed all the throttle bodies and found the reed valve assembly on problem cylinder#5 to be missing three of the reeds on reed plate. also found the retainer and screws missing note these are in the intake side of engine meaning that all theses pieces went into my engine but only found reed debris. I removed the starbord head and found slight damage to top of #5 cylinder piston also slight damage to head. Note still had decent compression withi percent range. Also had small score markes in cylinder wall. I think whoever desighned this extreemly poor design on these reed retainer needs to be seriously assesed for their engenering degree! I found one retainer screw loose on the other side of the reed plate. I plan on posting pictures tomorrow. I whave seen some very bad designs on cars on alot of things especially since I am a tech for gm but this is absolutley stupid! This 10 cent screw set up just cost me 5000$ or more to repair or replace. Everyone that has one of these engines they need to remove all reed blocks and add red loctite to these philips screws and retighten. Will post pictures tomorrow. Also would like to know if this has happened to anyone else?

[GaryL]

I know of 3 motors that have had the same thing happen. Although none of them suffed any major damage. Also all 3 were BRP motors 2 were 225 and one was a 250.

[THERAKE]

well I called around today and aparently most 2 strokes use this set up? I think there is alot better way to design something that could be so damaging but I am only a tech not a engineer. I only wish I would have known that this was possible because I would have removed all screws and loctited them. When I checked th other screws the loosed very easily and had no loctite on them only little lock washers.

[ChampioNman]

All two strokes use this set up. If you use red you wouldn't be able to replace the reeds if they needed to be replaced. Granted carbon reeds won't cause damage when they go as they just disintegrate and go out the exhaust but you have to make concessions with them also as far as timing changes. A stainless reed technology has proven very consistent over the course of time for an outboard motor and that is why they are still in use today. Yep they do break and unfortunatly it happend to you.
Sometimes in NASCAR racing a .25 cent part will kill a million dollar race car and cost a race, I know this is a poor analogy for you right now but,,stuff happens. Just too bad it happend to you.
That being said if they are gonna charge you $5,000 to fix your motor, you need to find a different shop.

[THERAKE]

I have checked with a couple of places also talked with c and o the one at west point said 5k plus parts,one shop said they wouldnt touch it, and c and o said 4k plus head beacuse it damage the starbord head. I am over the fact that they are all designed that way I just know on periodic maintenence to remove reed plates and check screws. I am just going to find another engine and replace mine. C and O was the most informative,I really want to buy a e tec but I just dont think I can afford one right now. Thats ok I will be back fishing soon with another eng.Thanks for the help.