what do you guys/gals think of easy loaders..i have been told there junk but i have had no issues with mine and its going on its fourth year..i will say this-i do keep my rig and trailer clean and in the garage..bbs for both
what do you guys/gals think of easy loaders..i have been told there junk but i have had no issues with mine and its going on its fourth year..i will say this-i do keep my rig and trailer clean and in the garage..bbs for both
Mine is going on 6 yrs old. I'll say it could be better. I had a fender fixed due to the welds and thin fender brackets breaking. The same one is breaking again. On tops of the fenders it's has "rust bubbles". I also had the other fender replace due to a accident and few years later it's rusting also. I just changed the wooden bunks this December and from the looks of it they didn't use treated wood as they were pretty rotten. I also had to replace my brake line along the axel after the 2 nd year. Reason I believe was there were not enough straps to hold it in place and the great roads in Louisiana broke it. Other than that I think all else is working fine. I never had a different trailer so I can't compare.
YOU are not entitled to what I have earned!!!!!
2014 Phoenix 619 Pro / 2014 Mercury 200 Pro XS
I had 2 torsion axles fail, however this could have happened on almost any trailer, since most use UFP axles anyways. Other than that, no major problems.
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Neil Eckberg- Cary, NC - 2008 Skeeter ZX250- 250 Yamaha SHO
Kerr Lake Ba$$hole
Mine is about 4 years old now, and I've had no real problems with the trailer, only some maintenance issues that could happen with any trailer. The concerns I have is with the bunks not being traated wood-mine are already not very solid, and the trailer being constructed of tubular steel rusting from the inside where you cannot see it. I've seen some guys saying that their trailer just kind of fell apart from rusting from the inside out. I check the weep holes in each of the cross members periodically to insure they don't get plugged up and allow water to drain from them.
EZ Loader is now building some of the trailers from channel steel with the Rhino coating instead of painted, and they are probably a much better trailer. I have a feeling that whenever I have to replace the bunks, the carpet will still be in good shape when the wood totally rots out!! It is a shame that they chose to save a couple of $$ on that.
I had mine about 3 years and the fenders have rust spots coming from under the paint. This is only on the fenders. The rest of the trailer seems to be doing fine. I also keep mine in a garage and pretty clean. I am not one to wash after every trip. I will probably just sand the fenders and repaint when I sell. I keep checking the bunks but so far seem to be holding up allright.
2009 Skeeter ZX200![]()
I've got a persistent problem of leaking inner bearing seals.. I've had them replaced a couple of times already but I'm now starting to get annoyed at them![]()
Has anyone else had this issue?
Current: 2006 ~ 20i ~ 250 HPDI ~ T1-25p
Previous: 2005 ~ ZX 225 ~ 250 HPDI Phase III - TXP 26p
02 trailer with over 150,000 miles on third set of tires and so far repainted the fenders, replaced main brake line, brake pads twice, master cylinder, two gas shock, bunks, carpet and seals about 5 times mainly just on one hub. Just ordered a brake kit with disks, hubs, bearings, seals and wheel cylinders. Oh, about dozen running lights but since I went to led couple years ago they been fine. Hope it last couple more years before the rust eats it completely. I believe I spent more on this thing than what its worth.![]()
I had one bearing inner seal leak, replaced it and no problems since. I only add grease when I can't see the blue insert and then only enough grease to get the piston to move about 1/8".
I replaced my bearing buddies so it's possible they're putting too much pressure on the seals and in turn i'm over greasing and blowing the seal... hmmmm
Current: 2006 ~ 20i ~ 250 HPDI ~ T1-25p
Previous: 2005 ~ ZX 225 ~ 250 HPDI Phase III - TXP 26p
Could very well be. All you want to do is put enough grease in there to fill up the cavity - that will keep water from getting to the bearings. The more you compress the spring by adding grease, the more pressure there is in the cavity which can force the grease out around the seal. Once the plunger begins to move - stop pumping, your cavity is full of grease.
My '05 trailer has been good.
Granted I've only owned it for about 2yrs, but it's obvious that it's never had a problem for the previous owner either.
I think the bunks are the originals based on my inspection. They have not rotted, but they also do not appear to be treated lumber.
She got fresh tires put on her this past year. I would assume the ones that came off were probably the originals as the boat was not used that much from what I can tell.
'09 Ranger Z520 Silverado Edition / '09 Evinrude ETEC 250 HO
'15 Xpress HD16DBX / Merc 59ci
<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by Texas Larry »</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">Could very well be. All you want to do is put enough grease in there to fill up the cavity - that will keep water from getting to the bearings. The more you compress the spring by adding grease, the more pressure there is in the cavity which can force the grease out around the seal. Once the plunger begins to move - stop pumping, your cavity is full of grease.</td></tr></table>
I'll be replacing the bearings and seals in the spring so i'll pay close attention to that when filling.
Current: 2006 ~ 20i ~ 250 HPDI ~ T1-25p
Previous: 2005 ~ ZX 225 ~ 250 HPDI Phase III - TXP 26p
Read this thread on our FAQ section. We do not suggest you use a grease gun on the bearing buddies. That is your issue.
http://basscatowners.yuku.com/...pack
Not to be argumentative, but:
My dad taught me how to pack bearings over 40 years ago, the same as your thread reads. However, I have had bearing buddies on my boat trailers since about 1976, I believe. I've always added a little grease with a hand grease gun, but only until the plunger begins to move, and have never had an issue of bearing failure or water in the hub. I was told that insuring the cavity is filled with grease prevents water intrusion from the seal when you put the warm hub in cold water to launch - i.e. the water will not displace the grease in the hub. Water will displace air. If you aren't going to add grease, why have the bearing buddies?
From the Bearing Buddy site:
Boat Trailers
Trailering, even a short distance, heats the hubs. When the wheels are submerged during launching, the hubs suddenly cool and the air inside the unprotected hubs contracts, forming a vacuum which draws in water through the rear seals. There is no such thing as a rotating seal that stays perfect. Water and grit thus drawn into the hubs relentlessly destroy bearings. When properly installed and maintained, Bearing Buddy® prevents wheel bearing failure and eliminates bearing repacking. Boat trailer wheels can be completely submerged
http://www.bearingbuddy.com/why.html
I have a 2009 Skeeter 20 I Class boat and EZ Loader trailer. The torsion system on one of the axles failed (tire stuck in the up position) 9 months after the purchase. EZ Loader did replace both axles under warranty.
They have had problems for sure...my 2000 ZX200 trailer was awful...
boards do not last 5 years for one thing even when under a carport 25 days a month not fishing...
they do not use SS hardware on boards either and my 2000 rivets came loose way too easy...
on my 2006 I upgraded their sorry winch, replaced the boards with 4ever Ultimate Boards and I watch it closely due to previous problems with their trailers...
just using premium well treated wood and SS lag screws would help a lot at small expense or at least should be an option.
Maybe they are better now...they sure are eager on the phone to sell you
upgrade parts" and such.
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2018 Z19/200 Optimax 2 stroker 24x3 Fury Ultrex 112
Lowrance HDS 12/9 Lives with AT 2
I had to replace the brake line in side the frame due to rusting and replace the screws that held the fenderwell bunks with panhead bolts due to rusting and also the fender brackets on the drivers side are broke and need to repair. they could definetlly increase their quality my boat is garage kept and taken care of for the cost of the equipment it is holding it is not up to whaty i think quality is suppose to be
<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by shinyb63 »</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">I had to replace the brake line in side the frame due to rusting and replace the screws that held the fenderwell bunks with panhead bolts due to rusting and also the fender brackets on the drivers side are broke and need to repair. they could definetlly increase their quality my boat is garage kept and taken care of for the cost of the equipment it is holding it is not up to whaty i think quality is suppose to be</td></tr></table>
How did you run new brake lines in the frame? I think I am going to have to do mine and it looks to be a pain in the a$$ job??
the only thing ive done is replace the lights with LEDs because 1 burned out and beat out a dent from a fender where my wife hit another trailer after launching me. knock on wood but i havent had problems. bought mine new in 2004
"Don't be afraid to see what you see."
Ronald Reagan