choke question on a 93 venom 200

[lkhartwl]

is there any other choke other than the key choke on the engine mod vj200sletf serial# G03300493 it seems that when the boat and motor is in the water the back pressure on the exhuast is shutting down the engine. I can hold the choke and give it gas and it will stay running but as soon as you let go of the choke it starts to die. It does not do it on the muffs in the yard in fact it runs a little high on the idle. Have replaced the VRO just a few minutes ago and it was still doing it. any suggestions ? other than a dealer looking at it for 70+ dollars an hour? and 6-8 weeks of it sitting in a shop? thanks Steve

[THE WITCHDOCTOR]

No other choke..... do you have the motor trimmed level when you idle> This will help the issue some, also make sure the bulb is firm , you might have a needle in a carb leaking by....

[25xs]

Can you give us more info?? Did this problem occur suddenly or over a long period of time. Do you have compression numbers you can post on your cylinders? What work has been done to the motor lately or in the past year? Got stale gas in it, or any signs or chance of having water in your gas tank that could now be getting into a couple carbs?

First, check your cam/roller & sleeve to see that it's intact. There is a black plastic lever that opens the throttle butterflies and it's moved by a cam. There is a black plastic roller on a small "axle" and the roller has a clear/yellowish plastic sleeve that belongs over it. Check that it's there before you proceed with this other stuff.
If the clear plastic sleeve is missing from the roller, go get one. It's part no. 432639 and get the retainer o-ring, too, part no. 324678


Anyway, if it runs with the primer (choke) enabled and dies when you let off the primer, then you probably have an idle circuit fuel delivery problem. Dirty, misadjusted, air leaking, etc... After the engine is warmed up, holding the primer on should normally kill (flood out) the motor.

You can TRY to richen the idle mixture screws on the carbs. Adjust them all equally, give them maybe 1/8th of a turn richer and test the motor again in the lake. You might have an air leak between the carb and throttle body which is very common on that style carb. It's got a 'funky' shaped o-ring between the carb and throttle body. Another common problem is the unknowing mechanic putting too much torque on the carb mounting screws... It deforms the plastic carb body and causes air leaks. With a new mounting o-ring, you barely put a few inch/pounds of torque on them.

Remove the air silencer box that covers the carbs. Look into the carb venturi opening and now above the hole and slightly to the left is a hole with the idle mixture screw in it. You might need a Torx bit screwdriver so look into the hole and see.

[25xs]

Lkhartwl: I have just searched your name for all the rest of your posts (and glad I did cuz there was alot more info there!).

Looks like you've been all over the place looking for a fuel delivery problem at the tank, anti-siphon valve, hose, primer bulb, gas lines, OMS pump, and now the primer solenoid (choke)...?

Test Suggestion:

How about hooking up a gas tank with 50:1 gas/oil mix directly to your carburetor supply fuel line (even bypass the OMS/VRO pump for this test). I'm pretty sure it's the fuel hose coming off the top of the OMS/VRO pump where you hook up. Block off the outlet of the OMS/VRO pump during this test. Unhook the boat's gas supply to your engine for this test as well. Have a buddy squeeze that primer bulb on the temporary test gas tank and you drive the boat (his hand squeezing the bulb will be your fuel pump for this test). According to your other posts, this should solve your engine running problems and if the motor runs just fine, then you can work backwards thru the OMS/VRO pump, the fuel lines, primer bulb, etc... for the actual cause of your problem.

I'm sorry to say, I don't think anything will change... I think your carbs need attention and/or the engine ignition timing and throttle butterfly synchronization is just not setup properly. If you have good compression and hot spark, this can only point to the carbs at this point since you can't even idle the motor at the lake while it's still on the trailer.

Tom
Lake Lanier, Georgia

[lkhartwl]

dont know if this may or may not have something to do with it but the check valve on my drivers tank was either sucking or blowing air into the fuel line, I was in the process of removing the check valves ( stratos has weird non omc stuff) so I went to the drivers side and when I removed the hose it either was sucking or blowing air as it was making a noise, the other was not. It has since come to light the whole hardware on the drivers side is fried ( stripped and puttied in) so this may or may not been a part of the problem I do not know but cant run the boat till I get it fixed. so I will probably have to get a new tank and hardware.

[barchief]

I have a 95 200 venom and mine does the same thing.. I think if you look around, you will find that most venom owners experience the same thing. Just a cold natured beast when it is first started, ESPECIALLY in the water.