HELLO BASSCAT7

Ok guys pretty much have completed the whole top cap with 1000 grit. I still have some frosted areas. Do I stay at it with the 1000 grit or move on? I am also having alot of trouble using the sanding block in the curved areas of the top cap. I read on here somewhere about using a sponge as a sanding block. What do you guys think? And thirdly I have some small spider cracks in the gelcoat. take a look at my photos and tell me what you think. Thanks

http://rbractionphotos.com/SPRINT/DSC02343.JPG
Frosting in a low area kind of a swell in the rail.

http://rbractionphotos.com/SPRINT/DSC02345.JPG
Frosting again in a contoured area.

http://rbractionphotos.com/SPRINT/DSC02348.JPG
Another view of the frosting. Even with the 1000 grit the boat is really starting to shine again! http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/smile.gif

http://rbractionphotos.com/SPRINT/DSC02350.JPG
Spider cracks in the gel. They do look better (smaller) after the 1000 grit but I didn't want to over do it.

http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/praying.gif

is the areas you done with the 1000 feel farily smooth?
i had a similar problem with mine...the oxidation was very bad...knocked it down with 1000 then went to 1500 then 2000 did a very good job and im happy with it
on the curved areas on mine i just used the paper and no block and it seemed to work fine.
Stan or one of the other more experienced guys will be along shortly to help ya out

Thanks Luke! Yes the areas I have done with the 1000 grit do feel smooth. I was concerned about not using a block due to a warning Basscat7 made about applying uneven pressure.

Stan is the man on this stuff...i did mine just on a few areas where it has a curve to it with out the block and it seemed to do just fine for me at least

It's gonna look chalky until you hit it with some compound and polish. If it's smooth, then you should be good. I'd hit it with at least some 1500, then compound a small section and see if I was happy with it.

Marooned I was actually thinking of doing just that. I was going to pick a section and go to 1500 then 2000 compound then glaze to see how it looks. What rpm's do you guys set your polisher/sander to?

It looks like to me you still have oxidation that needs to come off, I would drop down to 800/1000 grit and work your way back up. I set my buffer at 15/16 and make sure you keep your pad wet. I dunk it in a bucket of water then ring it out and do a 3' x 3' section then apply compound to another section dunk your pad again and do another section. http://www.bassboatcentral.com/boardstuff2/beers.gif

That sounds like just what I need to do. What do you think about my contour issue? Wet sponge for a sanding block?

Just use your hand and concentrate on the area where its still oxidized in the middle, looks like you got it all off the edges and that's what the straight block took care of so now you need to follow the contour with your hand. Never tried the sponge trick, but I can see how it will help in the contour but might not have the pressure to apply the sanding where needed. Good luck and after a hour with your hand you wont be able to hold a beer http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/Laugh.gif http://www.bassboatcentral.com/boardstuff2/beers.gif

Just use your hand to sand. Are you wet sanding or dry sanding?

What Frank said.

Looks like you still have a lot of oxidation left in the gel, usually that type of cloudiness needs lower grit to remove. The 800 should open it up and you should see the water turning a milky color, sand until the water runs clear, then go up the grits.

The 1000 grit has worked very well on the raised areas. I am wet sanding with a block but the block in not getting into the concave areas and that is where my cloudiness is. Stan scared me away from hand sanding due to the uneven pressure. So I am weighing my options. What do you guys think about the spider cracks?

Use your hand to get the uneven areas, wrap the paper around a sponge.

Those tiny spider cracks will never completely go away, you can sand them down with the 800 where they will be a lot less noticable, but the only way to remove them competley is to have the cap re gelcoated.

Man I sure appreciate the help. You get my IM?

if I could make a suggestion for you on the sanding block.

Go to home depot and buy one of the sponge type sanders for wood, bring it home and then make a small cut in one of the corners to allow the glued on sand paper to peel off. Once the paper starts to peel it comes off very easy. What you will be left with is a sanding block that conforms to your boat. Much easier to use.