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  1. #1
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    Help with 2001 evinrude ficht 200

    Hey guys seeing if anyone could help me! I have a 2001 evinrude ficht ram injection 200 hp. About 3 weeks ago I hit bottom with my motor and ever since then my boat hasn't ran right. I dropped the lower unit and pulled out the gear housing and noticed I had damage to pinion gear and forward gear. I went and bought a good lower unit and put it on. My boat is only running 3400 rpms while in the water and will not get up on plane unless my partner sets on front of boat. Once on plane it only runs about 4000-4200 rpms and only runs around 40-45 mph. This motor usually pushes my TR19 around 70-75mph. When I have the boat at home hooked us to the hose I can put the motor in gear and it will run well over 4000 rpms. It's only happening when it's under load. When just in neutral or just idling along the motor sounds great. Doesn't have any skipping or anything like that. I have not received any alarms or a check engine light or anything on my boat. I'm already $1000 in the hole so help is greatly appreciated!

  2. SC Club Moderator ChampioNman's Avatar
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    #2
    Hows the prop look?

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    #3
    Just bought a renegade bass prop before buying lower unit. It's a 13 1/2x 25 4 blade. That's what was on it when I purchased the boat 3 years ago.

  4. SC Club Moderator ChampioNman's Avatar
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    #4
    Is it blowing out on take off? Are you sure it is a V-6 gearcase and gear set?

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    #5
    What do you mean by blowing out on take off

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    #6
    The gear case came off a 91 evinrude 150. They looked at mine and matched it up so I'm guessing it's the right gearcase

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    #7
    I purchased it from Lanier marine liquidators and drove from Easley sc so I hope it's the right one

  8. Member
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    #8
    Quote Originally Posted by Dmccranie88 View Post
    The gear case came off a 91 evinrude 150. They looked at mine and matched it up so I'm guessing it's the right gearcase
    The gearcase from the '91 is going to have a much shorter driveshaft. Was it a Looper or Crossflow 150 H.P.? You may be stripping the splines off the top of the driveshaft, and/or the crankshaft internal splines. This is not a good match unless the correct driveshaft has been installed...

  9. Member
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    #9
    Quote Originally Posted by Dmccranie88 View Post
    Just bought a renegade bass prop before buying lower unit. It's a 13 1/2x 25 4 blade. That's what was on it when I purchased the boat 3 years ago.
    Does this mean it's a different prop than the one you hit bottom with ? If so, you might have a slipping hub issue with the one you just bought.

  10. SC Club Moderator ChampioNman's Avatar
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    #10
    I'm going to ask Al to change the name of this forum from the Johnson Evinrude forum to the ask 20 questions forum. Happens more and more anymore.

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    #11
    It's a brand new prop I doubt the hub is spun. Is it possible that I have carbon build up in the exhaust housing and when I hit bottom it knocked some loose and it's floating around in there? Almost like when I put the engine in water it's suffocating itself. Is that possible?

  12. SC Club Moderator ChampioNman's Avatar
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    #12
    Carbon buildup isn't that thick. BUT it is possible that the rear bearing carrier is installed up side down so the anode is facing the exhaust. Easy to tell take the prop and the thrust washer off and look at the prop shaft carrier. If the fat part of the anode is facing 12 o'clock you need to remove it and flip it 180*.

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    #13
    Is it possible that I have a throttle cable problem or it possibly screwed the timing up on the motor. Also if it was the timing would it run smooth at idle or skip. The motor runs smooth no skipping or anything. Only 3400 while taking forever to get on plane then only 4000 rpms after that. I also have a exhaust sensor that I removed that blows air up to emm and that sensor was clogged pretty bad with carbon.

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    #14
    Why not answer some of the questions before asking more questions-it would not be the first time I have seen mismatched gearboxes and powerheads, different gear ratios and as ChampioNman asked about blow out, and more importantly if the p/shaft housing is not 180 degrees wrong. I think the 20 question forum might be a valid point with this one.

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    #15
    Okay Huey! I asked in previous comments about what do y'all mean on blowing out on take off? As far as the correct gear ratio I took the old lower unit with me when bought the one I have now and they matched it up. How to know if the gear ratio is exactly the same or not I'm not sure. Is there a part number on lower unit that I could look up to see what it came off of? If y'all had a example of the rear bearing carrier being upside down I would greatly appreciate it. I'm not meaning to ask a ton of questions just trying to find a little help and guidance that's all

  16. SC Club Moderator ChampioNman's Avatar
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    #16
    Blow out,,prop spinning but not grabbing the water. Like doing a burn out at the drag strip. Running a renegade may require a weed ring installed into the housing to channel the exhaust gases thru the prop and not over.
    Rear bearing carrier, in your first post you said you tore the gearcase apart and noticed the pinion and forward gears were messed up. Right there you should have ordered the fwd and pinion set and just replaced those. But to get the gears out you had to remove the rear bearing carrier. It had two retaining tabs and two bolts at the rear of the case at 12 and 6 O'clock you would have had to remove those and then pulled the carrier out. The carrier is what the prop shaft rides on. On the bottom side is a sacrificial anode. The anode is large enough to it can partially block the exhaust port. It isn't fool proof and knowing the rep from the junk yard on Lanier anything is possible. On your new gear case does it have the two tabs on the bearing carrier or are there 4 bolts down inside the housing?
    The gear ratio on both should be 1.86:1..
    Item 22 is the carrier and 24 is the anode.

  17. SC Club Moderator ChampioNman's Avatar
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    #17
    As far as full throttle goes, remove the airbox and look inside the throttle bodies while applying wide open throttle, no need for motor to be running. You just want to verify that the throttle plates are opening fully when you give it full throttle. In the illustration make sure that the clear roller for Item #37 is still there, that is the throttle roller for the throttle body on the right side.


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    #18
    It has 4 bolts down in the casing to remove the carrier which is different than the one that cane off which had two molts at 6-12 o'clock holding it in so that should have been my first clue. I called and ask them are they sure they matched mine up correctly but they were no help Shane has made his money so guess he doesn't care. It was after the fact that I read about how big of crooks they was. At first I was planning on just changing the pinion and forward gear that's why I did all the labor to get to that point only problem was when I got the carrier out and the reverse gear and then took off the pinion nut I can't get the pinion gear off the drive shaft. I guess it seized on there. So that's when I decided to get another gear case. The one that was on my boat I don't think was the original lower unit as well because I'm pretty sure the one that goes on my motor should have a 2 piece drive shaft and it doesn't it has a one piece drive shaft. Maybe the new gear case I have on there isn't the right gear ratio and I'm out $675 and a buddy taking a trip to Georgia. He took my lower unit with him and the guys told me they would match it up. I gave the guy at Lanier my motor model number and all and he said he had one there and would have it waiting on me so I thought he knew what he was talking about.

  19. SC Club Moderator ChampioNman's Avatar
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    #19
    The 4 bolts down in the carrier are for the old style cross flow one piece drive shaft gearcase (CrossFlow XP/GT motors), your best bet right now would to be to call Eddie Pope (gearcase man) and see if he can help you out. The gear ratios are the same, so he can help you out and get you up and running. He's a great guy to work with. He's up in Charleston TN and he'll probably meet you 1/2 to save on shipping. When I was up there and had my shop, I'dlu use Eddie all the time and meet him up around Blue Ridge or Hiawassee.

    Here is Eddie's phone number 423-336-5618

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    #20
    So your saying the gear ratios are the same or aren't the same?

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