Prop Issues with 225 Yamaha SHO

[Zetabait]

I guess I’m uneducated when it comes to this whole prop thing and hoping someone can help me understand this and maybe offer some advice.

I have a 2013 225 SHO on a Triton TX21.
Dealer orders me the “supposedly correct” prop for the SHO. Which turned out to be a Yamaha VMax 25P T1 ventless. $800. I’ve been running that prop for about 2 years now. Speed is 70-72 at 5600 rpm. So after a lot of use the prop is pretty chewed up, and I send it off to Mark to get repaired and blueprinted. Apparently the hub is all chewed up, and isn’t even the 2 piece hub that is meant for that motor. Mark (rightfully) didn’t want to have me pay a bunch of money for the repair if the prop wasn’t going to seat properly.

Mark had some other concerns and we ultimately came to the conclusion to basically start over with the right prop, which is now the VMax SHO 25P. $800.

What I don’t understand is why I didn’t notice the shape the hub was in or notice any performance issues. Was I just a trip or two away from spinning the hub?

Now I have $1600 worth of Yamaha prop, and a Tempest prop (left over from my old Merc) that I “hope” is hubbed correctly. What do I do with the old 25P T1 that is the wrong prop with a bad hub and how do I prevent it from happening again? Do I go back to the dealer?
Here’s a shot of my propshaft. Looks fine to me, but maybe I’m clueless.
What would you have done? Thanks for any advice and education.




Robert

[Dando]

Buying the boat is the cheap part.
I don't understand what you are saying about the hub. Hubs can be replaced.
Do you mean the "thrust washer" is chewed up?

What's messed up with the below:
1) The prop (stainless steel propeller)
2) Hub (the rubber and the splines in the prop that slide over the prop "shaft" on the motor)
3) The prop shaft (splined shaft on the motor)
4) Thrust Washer (the thick washer that the propeller's HUB seats against)
5) Bearing retainer/housing (the 4" diameter round thing in your photo that's silver and looks like is has teeth around it)

[jethro1]

Let's get our terminology correct so that we can all be on the same wave length.

T1 is not the name, number or brand of propeller. I see it being referred to all of the time but we need to stop doing that.

The SHO was intended by Yamaha to be used with a Yamaha V Max ventless propeller. In whatever pitch is needed to get the motor to run at or near red line, when the throttle is wide open, with the boat normally loaded, and the engine trimmed to the most efficient trim angle.

2015_Yamaha_MRP

Now having said what Yamaha said about the V Max ventless propeller, it is perfectly acceptable for anyone to use whatever brand, style, model, pitch of propeller that gives them whatever performance objective they are after. Many use Mercury Marine propellers and many use Turbo propellers. Turbo being a Yamaha owner propeller company.

The V MAX ventless propeller uses a one piece pressed in hub. When you mention a two piece hub are you maybe referring to the two piece thrust washer that comes with the SHO motor? The thrust washer is prone to being chewed up if and when insufficient torque is applied to the propeller nut. Of course a hub is prone to being spun unless it is the Yamaha SDS type, which the V MAX ventless does not use.

We can all be better educated on motors, boats, propellers and any number of other things. Go here and then hover on the tab labeled "Propellers" and you will have four sub-menus to choose from. Read all about propellers.

Yamaha Outboards

[Dando]

I call it a T1 because that is cast into it and is a good way to distinguish it from others, such as the ones with "M" cast into them.

[jethro1]

I call it a T1 because that is cast into it and is a good way to distinguish it from others, such as the ones with "M" cast into them.

The problem is that there are other Yamaha propellers with T1 cast into them and they are not V MAX propellers.

[Zetabait]

Specifically was told it was the hub. He didn't have one in stock.

If the hub was messed up, shouldn’t I have noticed something with the performance?
I’ll post a pic of the hub once I get the prop back.
Thrust washer looked fine, and whenever I have removed the prop, I always use a torque wrench to tighten it back per Yamaha specs. So it wasn’t over or under tightened.

[Rich Z]

Never heard of a 2 piece hub on any yamaha props.
Btw, looks like there is a bolt missing from the bearing carrier.

[Dando]

The problem is that there are other Yamaha propellers with T1 cast into them and they are not V MAX propellers.

I did not know that.

[Chase3009]

The problem is that there are other Yamaha propellers with T1 cast into them and they are not V MAX propellers.

Didn't know that either. Thats good info.

[Zetabait]

Rich, where is the bearing carrier?

Here are the only other parts that I removed to take the prop off. Nut, thrust washer, and some other washer.



Thanks!

[Rich Z]

Never mind. Don't see any bolts holding the bearing carrier in parts diagram. Only retainer ring is holding the bearing carrier.

[skeeter_tzx]

Parts 23 and 24 are the two piece thrust washer that are required
2006 and Later VF250LA_0410 Yamaha Outboard LOWER CASING DRIVE 2 Diagram and Parts