27p Bravo 1 XS on a Phoenix 920/Verado 250 pro

[RISE]

My motor is mounted in 2nd hole from top and Atlas is mounted in 2nd hole from top as well.
I think your right about 3rd hole on Atlas and 4th hole on motor. That should give me the usable range I'm looking for.

[RISE]

According to Mercury, the XS and the FS are EXACTLY the same prop (only difference being the DUAL PVS openings on the XS).

Thanks Don

[npark]

Greg if you are throwing a large rooster that is already sign of too much positive trim. If it's needing that to carry the bow (ie still making speed as you trim) then you prolly have too much weight too far toward. Let me re-phrase this for clarity, I wouldn't use ballast to help me plane, only to not make holeshot worse while fighting the chine...water in the livewell favors the stern so will penalize holeshot. As far as your bricks, I'd recommend not putting any more weight past the seating area. In fact I'd prolly pull that 50 in the port side rod box and put 25 in there instead, then 100 around the console as far to the port side as possible and see how it goes from there.

[RISE]

Greg if you are throwing a large rooster that is already sign of too much positive trim. If it's needing that to carry the bow (ie still making speed as you trim) then you prolly have too much weight too far toward. Let me re-phrase this for clarity, I wouldn't use ballast to help me plane, only to not make holeshot worse while fighting the chine...water in the livewell favors the stern so will penalize holeshot. As far as your bricks, I'd recommend not putting any more weight past the seating area. In fact I'd prolly pull that 50 in the port side rod box and put 25 in there instead, then 100 around the console as far to the port side as possible and see how it goes from there.

Will do on the weight distribution. So should I start unloading tackle from the front and strip down the "on-board inventory" to the bare minimum? It's sounding like I should have as little as possible up front. What should maximum height of rooster tail be, I've always thought that no higher than top of cowling was rule of thumb?

[RISE]

Also, Should I consider sending my stock 25p fury in to have it B&B'd, some cup added and another set of PVS holes to help with hole shot?

[npark]

I wouldn't go as far as moving your tackle, that needs to be in a convenient spot. I just wouldn't add any more ballast in the rod boxes and prolly try lessening that 50lbs of 'extra' weight up front. Also the prop could be wrong and not have enough bow lift without the trim, it is a work in progress to get it all sorted out but you are on a good path and will be way ahead of most guys on the water.

You are spot on about the rooster, no higher than the cowl at WOT, if it's less than that's fine...just means you are using the HP to propel you forward instead of push the bow up. This is 96mph with good neutral trim and the rooster is cowl highimage.jpg this is 85 with too much positive trim and the rooster is too high

[RISE]

Great pics! The weight I added was not in the front port side rod box. There is actually a separate passenger side rod box right next to the passenger seat and that's where I added the lead brick. It's in the cockpit area so that correlates with where you were suggesting I put those weights. Everything up front is the same as it was prior to this. I will start moving those weights around a bit more as suggested. In the meantime, What prop should I be looking at to get enough bow lift? Do I order a couple of other props to have on hand once we get the boat balanced out? If so, which ones in your opinion? I know the Bravo 1 and tempest will both get me a bit more stern lift but don't know which ones shine when it comes to bow lift aside from a Fury. I can also send the stock 25 fury to be worked and add some venting to see if that will help with lift and hole shot.

[npark]

Thanks! Ok good to know about the location of your boxes/ballast, didn't realize it was that far back but you are right...that's a good spot. More height on the JP will require less positive trim so more and more signs are pointing to you needing to raise the engine. Also more stern lift from the prop can drive the bow down so not sure what prop would be best for you. Guys that know their stuff are saying Bravos but I'd be leary of more stern lift from the sounds of it. I know if it was me I would hold off from buying new props or even sending them off until maximizing the current setup so that you know exactly what you need for the final key then just fine tune from there.

[RISE]

Thanks! Ok good to know about the location of your boxes/ballast, didn't realize it was that far back but you are right...that's a good spot. More height on the JP will require less positive trim so more and more signs are pointing to you needing to raise the engine. Also more stern lift from the prop can drive the bow down so not sure what prop would be best for you. Guys that know their stuff are saying Bravos but I'd be leary of more stern lift from the sounds of it. I know if it was me I would hold off from buying new props or even sending them off until maximizing the current setup so that you know exactly what you need for the final key then just fine tune from there.

Well you continue to make very valid points. I will just have to be patient and do this the right way, otherwise, there's really no point. Thanks for helping me keep my head out of the clouds.

[EuropeanAM]

You should NOT need to add any extra PVS openings in a Fury Prop. More often than not- a Verado setup will require LESS ventilation than a similar 2-stroke setup.

Also, keep in mind that the "cowling high" rooster tail is not necessarily applicable with the Verado, due to it's SUBSTANTIALLY taller cowling. "Midpoint of cowling" would be a better mark to utilize.

[RISE]

You should NOT need to add any extra PVS openings in a Fury Prop. More often than not- a Verado setup will require LESS ventilation than a similar 2-stroke setup.

Also, keep in mind that the "cowling high" rooster tail is not necessarily applicable with the Verado, due to it's SUBSTANTIALLY taller cowling. "Midpoint of cowling" would be a better mark to utilize.

In that case Don, I'm definitely throwing too tall of a tail and my hole shot is suffering with the Fury. So what do I try next aside fromI moving weight around? I'm getting a lot of great info from this thread, but It's also being suggested that I don't buy any other props for now, which I somewhat understand. Could adjusting the motor height and balancing out the weight in the boat possibly be all that is needed to get this right or do we all agree that a prop will most likely bring the biggest amount of positive change for top end/hole shot? I guess I'm just a bit overwhelmed with info at this point

[2500]

In that case Don, I'm definitely throwing too tall of a tail and my hole shot is suffering with the Fury. So what do I try next aside fromI moving weight around? I'm getting a lot of great info from this thread, but It's also being suggested that I don't buy any other props for now, which I somewhat understand. Could adjusting the motor height and balancing out the weight in the boat possibly be all that is needed to get this right or do we all agree that a prop will most likely bring the biggest amount of positive change for top end/hole shot? I guess I'm just a bit overwhelmed with info at this point

have seen in past that on some boats they run better with the Tempest over Fury in a 3 blade, I for one see 4 blades in a loaded tournament boat run better, lifts bow and stern with the loaded tournament setup better. fury is a great prop but in my opinion you'll find the 4 blade will do better loaded and may run faster on top end

[EuropeanAM]

I have to agree- something along the lines of the Bravo-1 FS would be an excellent choice for "overall" performance.

See posts above.... 25-26P Bravo-1 FS would be a good starting point.

[speedlip]

I run A 26 Bravo on Z22 with a 250 Pro Verado great hole shot

[RISE]

Just ordered a 26p Bavo 1 FS, I'll update after running it and the tempest plus I've got as well.

[RISE]

Okay...Prop came in and I got the motor and jack plate raised on the boat. Went with 4th hole from top on motor and 3rd on JP as per Jeff's suggestion. ATLAS jack plate gauge/P2P numbers are as follows.
0 = 3 1/2" below pad
5 = 2 5/8" below pad
10 = 1 1/4" below pad
15 = 3/8" below pad
20 = 5/8" ABOVE PAD
I am thinking maybe I need to come down one hole on motor?
Ran the 26p Bravo today fully loaded boat, with weight still distributed as it was when I ran it last. Both live wells with water in them (2/3 full) with no PVS plugs at first and it wound up to 4200 RPMs out of the hole. Decent hole shot, JP gauge at 6 and saw 72.4 right away...handled great...28-29 on water pressure. Rooster tail was well below cowling and it is VERY obvious that this prop is providing a good amount of stern lift. Tried a bunch of different combos with PVS plugs but ended up with 2 med PVS plugs for best hole shot at 8 on JP gauge and 3800 RPMs out of hole. Magic Numbers for best top speed run were 9 on JP gauge, neutral on trim 74.5 @ 6440 RPMs and 18-20 on water pressure. Much better handling with the 4 blade as expected. This thing really likes to run high! RPMs seem too high with this prop...would think I should be able to get better top end out of it if I have some cup added? Any questions or input guys?? Do I need to go to a 27 Bravo?

[EuropeanAM]

You may be able to spin a 27P as a good (all-around) prop. You're really only about 90 RPM over your target (6300-6350).

A little extra cup added to the 26, or a 26.5 Bravo-1 would likely do the trick for you.

You're essentially centered in the plate's travel when you're at the "sweet" spot... which would allow you room for movement DOWN where needed in rough conditions, or UP where needed at LOW SPEEDS in shallows. This is, of course a personal preference... some prefer more up (or down) movement based on their most common operating conditions.

[RISE]

Hmm....so do I just stick with this 26 and add some cup or go to a 27...gotta make a choice there. Would I benefit lowering the motor one hole to allow for 4" below pad at "0" or should I be fine where I'm at? You and I talked about water pressure the other day Don, but what should I be expecting in terms of RPMs out of the hole? Is 38-3900 where I want to be or was the 41-4200 better? What's it gonna take for me to get some more top end out of this rig fully loaded....questions questions! Going to run all 4 props I own on Friday and narrow it down to the two best.

[2500]

Hmm....so do I just stick with this 26 and add some cup or go to a 27...gotta make a choice there. Would I benefit lowering the motor one hole to allow for 4" below pad at "0" or should I be fine where I'm at? You and I talked about water pressure the other day Don, but what should I be expecting in terms of RPMs out of the hole? Is 38-3900 where I want to be or was the 41-4200 better? What's it gonna take for me to get some more top end out of this rig fully loaded....questions questions! Going to run all 4 props I own on Friday and narrow it down to the two best.

I would leave it alone, also was that with 2 people or you by yourself? I would add extra pitch that will help cut rpms some. But if that testing was by yourself you are dialed in perfect for 2 person loads. However if you wanted to lower engine one hole it's just gonna change the number system with pad to prop shaft.

[npark]

Good results!! Fine tuning from there is all that is needed.