4 Stroke Oil Filter Cross Reference

[PSM207]

Musky Mike requested the oil filter cross reference for the F150, but I have also included the cross reference for the F115. I have been running the F150 for over 2 years, and several friends are running smaller Yamaha 4 strokers. I have listed these in order from best to worst filtration, and yes, Fram is the worst. I highly recommend WIX or NAPA as they are both the same. Super Tech is the WalMart brand, which is a very good filter produced by Champion Labs. The Yamaha filter is made by Denso and it too has poor filtration, along with a high price tag.

F150 FILTERS
WIX 51348
NAPA 1348
Super Tech ST3614
Yamaha 69J-13440-00
Denso 11510-6000
Fram PH3614

F115 FILTERS
WIX 51358
NAPA 1358
Purolator ML16817 or 16819
Yamaha 5GH-13440-00-00
Fram PH6017A

[Musky Mike]

Thanks for the info PSM 207. Are you going to use the new Amsoil 10w-40 FW-C?

[PSM207]

I run full synthetic in all of my equipment. After 25+ years of industrial maintenance and engineering, I am sold on the benefits of full synthetics. Some might think I am crazy, but with full synthetics I only perform annual oil changes. I do change the filters a few times a year. With the extended change intervals, synthetics are actually more cost effective. I am highly considering becoming an Amsoil Dealer.

[dirtmonkey]

Thanks for the info! I am planning to change mine next week. I have the F115 and this is the initial 10 hr change... the oil opn the stick looks fairly clear with the expected dark fine particles in the bottom of the sump. I had been searching for cross filters, as the Yamaha/Denso can be found at the local bike shop for 14+ bucks.. the nearest OB dealer is fifty miles.

I was also considering going with the synthetics also. I know you recommend Amsoil. What others are good? Mobil1, Castrol full, Pennzoil? 10W30 or 10W40?

Where can you find the Wix filters?

[adchunts]

Thank you, James. I've been looking for that information.

[Musky Mike]

I don't like to comment on things I don't have some type of data on, I'm very careful about "word of mouth" So I will only comment on 2 types of oils. After 1 season of running the Amsoil in my outboard, I sent in a sample of my engine oil and everything looked good. The lab commented that I could run the oil longer. The other Syn. I will comment on is Mobil 1, Bass and Walleye boats did an oil test, and Mobil 1 performed as well or better than the outboard oils. If you have an 2004 or older engine you can use the Mobil 1 because before FC-W rating came out the outboard manafactures used standard car ratings, however if you have an engine that requires FC-W Mobil 1 does not have that rating. I use 10W-40 because it gets 90+ in the summer here. I hope this helps.


Modified by Musky Mike at 4:47 PM 1/3/2006

[nosaj2]

Just be sure you don't change to synthetic too soon. The four strokes don't really get broke in good until they get about 40-50 hours on them. Mine really started running stronger after 40 hours. I have right at 50 on it now and will switch to amsoil when I get around 75-80 ours on it. If you switch too soon the rings will not seat all the way. Amsoil even recommends wait until you get 25,000 miles on a car before putting synthetic in. That is well over the manufactors recommended break in period. This is just to be sure that the rings are properly seated.

[dirtmonkey]

Yamaha filter was 14+ and the Wix was 9 and change at O'Reilly... guess which one I bought? 51358

How do you determine which oil to use on the Amsoil site? I couldn't find any marine applications and the automobile selections are confusing... there's like 5 different kinds of 10W40, etc....

Musky Mike, where did you get that info on waiting to use synthetics? I was just going to change mine this afternoon, but I think I can wait about a month til I talk to the Yamaha tech folks at the Classic....

[Musky Mike]

It was not me who posted not to use synthetics too soon after break-in. I did the first oil change at 10 hours with regular oil and changed over to Amsoil at about 20-25 hours. It won't hurt anything if you wait to 50-60 hours to change over to Amsoil. I only put about about 30-40 hours a year on my motor, so its nice to only change my oil once a year. I did send an oil sample in to make sure it didn't have any fuel, water in it, and was still clean at the end of the year. My oil sample came back with a "clean bill of health". Just to be safe, I will do a oil sample in the middle of summer to check my oil for problems. Here is a link for the oil. http://www.amsoil.com/StoreFront/wcf.aspx

[dirtmonkey]

I'm sorry, that little screen at the bottom had your name on it...

Anyhow, what I want to know is, from anybody, why synthetics wouldn't be as good or better than conventional oil, even for "new" motors? Given the superior lubricating properties, etc., it would appear to me that synthetics would be better, even during break-in... (rings seating, etc.) It says right on the label "helps new enginges stay new" or something like that.....

I guess somebody smarter than me needs to convince this ol country boy that I should wait... (evidence) From all I've heard, synthetics are the real deal, and now I hear wait until you get a year or two on it... what's with that? I've got 40 bucks worth of oil I need to do something with....

[AB]

That's the problem, it lubricates too well...It does not allow the rings to "wear" and seat in the cylinder bore like a conventional dino oil will....Heck, I am breakin in my freshly rebuilt 2.6 175 and I am running the cheapest dang WalMart 2-stroke oil I can find in it. No syn oil will touch it until the leakdown and compression numbers stabalize and the motor is fully broke in.

[dirtmonkey]

Yeah, but aint there a big difference between a two stroke and a four stroke? I don't have that oil in the fuel....

[nosaj2]

2 or 4 stroke both require a break in period. To answer you question in short, yes you can run synthetic in a brand new motor. But you will just lengthen the time it takes for you motor to get broke in. The break in procedure in the manual is just an initial break in. Like AwesomeBullet said, it takes longer for the rings to seat. The rings will only seat under wear and heat. The very reason for using synthetic is to reduce these wear factors. Every motor is going to run better after all of the parts in worn in. ( I gained rpms after 40 hours. Now I'm looking for a bigger prop.) This is when you want to switch to synthetic. So, then you slow down the wear process and keep you motor running at its peak. I have been using Amsoil for a long time and while I could not find it on there web site I know they used to say that you should only switch to synthetic after 25,000 on a car to insure that the rings were seated. While you can not use that figure for a boat, it still stands to reason that you want to be sure that the ring are seated fully. I have heard from two different boat mechanics that have worked on four stroke motors. One said he would not switch to synthetic until 100 hours and the other said somewhere between 40-60 hours. These guys worked at two seperate marinias about 80 miles from each other. But like I said I can't see it causing any harm to run it in a new motor. I would suggest contacting you local marina or amsoil tech support. If you email them they are pretty good at getting back to you quickly.

[AB]

I put Amsoil in my 03 Expy at the first oil change...That dang motor was still breaking in when I sold it at 25000 miles. It would get stronger and get better fuel mileage after each road trip. Now my 05 I have kept the stock Motorcraft oil in and it feels pretty much broke in now at 8000 miles, no more improvements in power or fuel economy. And yes, 2 and 4 strokes are different, but oil is oil. You still have to have oil on the cylinder walls to keep the rings from just toasting right away. It's just that the syn doesn't let the rings wear like they need to right away.

[o2man98]

I am an Amsoil Dealer and have never had an issue when putting synthetics in new engines, in fact I do it on all of mine. Here is a link to what Amsoil has to say about it. http://www.amsoil.com/faqs/faq1.aspx?zo=1132530

I would also highly recommend the WCF 10w-40 which can be bought for $5.70 per qt.

Also FWIW The Amsoil Oil X-Ref to the above filters is:
F150 = EaO57
F115 = EaO13

[Musky Mike]

How can I buy Amsoil from you?

[o2man98]

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Musky Mike &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How can I buy Amsoil from you?</TD></TR></TABLE>

ken@modernoils.com

[dirtmonkey]

After much consideration, I think I am going to go back with the Yamaha oil for one more cycle, then switch to Amsoil...

[adchunts]

Nick,

I you still have that synthetic just sitting around, I'll take it off your hands............

You can just ship it back with AC5DC.................

[dirtmonkey]

I took it back for credit... in about 6 months I'll probably be an Amsoil dealer...LOL