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  1. Member
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    #181
    Quote Originally Posted by b*******51 View Post
    question on "dewinterization" what needs to be done? Can I just take it to the lake with fresh fuel, charged batteries and go after sitting for three months? Should I replace plugs after first spring trip to prevent fouling new plugs from fogging?
    What motor?



  2. Member basshole51's Avatar
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    #182
    Quote Originally Posted by Savage View Post
    What motor?
    my apologies; 2013 200HP ProXS 1B965288
    "Any pizza is a personal pizza if you believe in yourself"

  3. Mercury 3L/4 Stroke/Verado Moderator EuropeanAM's Avatar
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    #183
    Quote Originally Posted by b*(why did I use a taboo word in my user name)******51 View Post
    question on "dewinterization" what needs to be done? Can I just take it to the lake with fresh fuel, charged batteries and go after sitting for three months? Should I replace plugs after first spring trip to prevent fouling new plugs from fogging?
    Depends on what was done. If you read the FIRST post, it recommends holding off on the Spark Plugs and Water Pump until you're ready to recommission the engine (if sitting for more than 45 days and fogged).


    Dual Mercury Master Technician- for Mercury Outboards, Mercruiser and Mercury Racing at European Marine in Greenville, SC.
    Still consider myself a "Marine Apprentice" after 45 years (learn something new every day).
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  4. Member basshole51's Avatar
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    #184
    Quote Originally Posted by EuropeanAM View Post
    Depends on what was done. If you read the FIRST post, it recommends holding off on the Spark Plugs and Water Pump until you're ready to recommission the engine (if sitting for more than 45 days and fogged).
    yes that is the plan...I plan on following all of your winterization steps as it will sit for around 3 months in heated storage. my last motor was carburated so I was curious if I needed to change plugs after first start up or I can do it before first spring startup...wasn't sure if the "fogging" you reccomoend will foul plugs or not would hate to ruin brand new plugs.
    "Any pizza is a personal pizza if you believe in yourself"

  5. Member
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    #185
    Hi! Newbie question here...

    What is the best way to get the oil into the cylinders at the right amount? Is there a small tube or something out there that I can use? Seems like using a teaspoon would be tough at that angle. ;)

    Love all the info here, got a new to me 150 Optimax this summer I'm going to grab the serial number tonight and order some stuff, nowhere near me had any Mercury Gear Lube left. Need manual, plugs, gear lube, and Quickstore. Possibly impeller.

    Thanks in advance!
    Daryl Larson
    13 Triton 18pro, 150hp Mercury Optimax Pro XS
    Garmin Electronics


  6. Member
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    #186
    Quote Originally Posted by Passmaster Classic View Post
    Hi! Newbie question here...

    What is the best way to get the oil into the cylinders at the right amount? Is there a small tube or something out there that I can use? Seems like using a teaspoon would be tough at that angle. ;)

    Love all the info here, got a new to me 150 Optimax this summer I'm going to grab the serial number tonight and order some stuff, nowhere near me had any Mercury Gear Lube left. Need manual, plugs, gear lube, and Quickstore. Possibly impeller.

    Thanks in advance!
    Use a turkey baster or something similar (large plastic liguid syringe). Measure out a teaspoon into a cup and suck it into the baster. Mark a line on the baster with fluid level. From there on out you can skip the cup step and use that line for approximately 1 tsp of oil.

  7. Member basshole51's Avatar
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    #187
    I bought this 5ML (one teaspoon) syringe...works well to apply the 8-12 drops of DFI oil to the compresor air inlet as well.
    Last edited by EuropeanAM; 11-11-2019 at 09:21 AM. Reason: Announcements
    "Any pizza is a personal pizza if you believe in yourself"

  8. Member
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    #188
    Glass eyedropper with angled end works great and doubles well for the compressor. A syringe with short piece of tubing would be awesome too.
    _______

    Phil
    '09 Hewescraft ProV
    '09 150 Optimax


  9. Member
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    #189
    Few questions here:

    Is the air compressor filter that is reffered to in post #1, part #853333T ??

    The manual calls to "replace all filters on the suction side of the fuel system." is the water seperating fuel filter the only one?

    you say to "replace water pump impeller and gaskets (at a minimum)", is this a yearly recommended item?

    is fogging oil or dfi oil better for storage?



    this is all i have for now, thanks hahah

  10. Mercury 3L/4 Stroke/Verado Moderator EuropeanAM's Avatar
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    #190
    Quote Originally Posted by SSwelder189 View Post
    Few questions here:

    Is the air compressor filter that is reffered to in post #1, part #853333T ??

    The manual calls to "replace all filters on the suction side of the fuel system." is the water seperating fuel filter the only one?

    you say to "replace water pump impeller and gaskets (at a minimum)", is this a yearly recommended item?

    is fogging oil or dfi oil better for storage?



    this is all i have for now, thanks hahah
    These questions would have Engine-Specific answers, other than the water pump (which is indeed an Annual Item).

    Open a separate thread and provide the required engine info for assistance with the other questions. Thanks!


    Dual Mercury Master Technician- for Mercury Outboards, Mercruiser and Mercury Racing at European Marine in Greenville, SC.
    Still consider myself a "Marine Apprentice" after 45 years (learn something new every day).
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  11. Member
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    #191
    I've skimmed through the other questions in the previous replies, and did not see my question already asked....(Apologies if I missed it).

    My 2006 175hp Optimax is currently winterized, following much of the above steps.
    When recommissioning the outboard, I've read on a couple occasions that I should remove the (old) plugs and crank the motor to "blow out" any excess oil in the cylinders to prevent a possible hydrolock.
    Is this necessary? Or just start the outboard initially on muffs with the old plugs still in, to let any excess oil fowl those plugs.
    Then install new plugs and change the water pump.

    Because we know how much of a pain it is to remove some of the lower plugs, I want to minimize the number of times I remove and reinstall the plugs.
    (Because of sheer frustration, and the risk of cross threading)

    Thanks in advance.

  12. Mercury 3L/4 Stroke/Verado Moderator EuropeanAM's Avatar
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    #192
    Quote Originally Posted by MPKehoe09 View Post
    I've skimmed through the other questions in the previous replies, and did not see my question already asked....(Apologies if I missed it).

    My 2006 175hp Optimax is currently winterized, following much of the above steps.
    When recommissioning the outboard, I've read on a couple occasions that I should remove the (old) plugs and crank the motor to "blow out" any excess oil in the cylinders to prevent a possible hydrolock.
    Is this necessary? Or just start the outboard initially on muffs with the old plugs still in, to let any excess oil fowl those plugs.
    Then install new plugs and change the water pump.

    Because we know how much of a pain it is to remove some of the lower plugs, I want to minimize the number of times I remove and reinstall the plugs.
    (Because of sheer frustration, and the risk of cross threading)

    Thanks in advance.

    Good question. If you added oil to the cylinders to "fog" the engine, the answer would depend on two factors:

    1. How much oil did you add?

    2. Did you spin the engine through a few revolutions with the plugs OUT before you reinstalled them?

    If you added a teaspoon or less of oil, and DID spin the engine through at least 3 revolutions before reinstalling the plugs, it is extremely unlikely that you would fluid-lock the engine.

    OTHERWISE: It would be wise to pull the plugs and purge some of that oil out (same as instructed in Post# 1).

    Absolutely run the engine for at least 5 minutes (best done on the water, but acceptable to run it on muffs as well) before changing spark plugs.

    OR... perhaps change the plugs after your first (short) lake outing.


    Dual Mercury Master Technician- for Mercury Outboards, Mercruiser and Mercury Racing at European Marine in Greenville, SC.
    Still consider myself a "Marine Apprentice" after 45 years (learn something new every day).
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  13. Member
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    #193
    Thanks for the feedback.

    Per Mercury Marine, about 1oz of DFI oil was added to each cylinder, which is quite a bit more than a teaspoon (0.16oz).
    I did however give the engine a couple quick cranks with the plugs out, prior to reinstalling.

    Once the boat is launched, it's in a slip, so changing plugs will be much easier on the trailer, than in the water.
    Don't want to cut any corners, but trying to streamline the process where possible.

  14. Mercury 3L/4 Stroke/Verado Moderator EuropeanAM's Avatar
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    #194


    Dual Mercury Master Technician- for Mercury Outboards, Mercruiser and Mercury Racing at European Marine in Greenville, SC.
    Still consider myself a "Marine Apprentice" after 45 years (learn something new every day).
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    #195
    Cost for 2008 250 Opti.

    TIA

  16. Mercury 3L/4 Stroke/Verado Moderator EuropeanAM's Avatar
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    #196
    PM sent.


    Dual Mercury Master Technician- for Mercury Outboards, Mercruiser and Mercury Racing at European Marine in Greenville, SC.
    Still consider myself a "Marine Apprentice" after 45 years (learn something new every day).
    Mercury Parts, Mercury Outboards, Smartcraft & Accessories, Injector Service, TDR Reeds- BBC Sponsor

  17. Member lpugh's Avatar
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    #197
    I'll tell guys if I lived near Don, I would work for him for free for a year if he would allow me, Don't think I could offer him a higher compliment for all he has done over the years for Free for so many
    Thank You Leon Pugh

  18. Mercury 3L/4 Stroke/Verado Moderator EuropeanAM's Avatar
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    #198
    Thanks for the kind words, Leon.


    Dual Mercury Master Technician- for Mercury Outboards, Mercruiser and Mercury Racing at European Marine in Greenville, SC.
    Still consider myself a "Marine Apprentice" after 45 years (learn something new every day).
    Mercury Parts, Mercury Outboards, Smartcraft & Accessories, Injector Service, TDR Reeds- BBC Sponsor

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    #199
    Cost for a 2010 225 proxs?

  20. Mercury 3L/4 Stroke/Verado Moderator EuropeanAM's Avatar
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    #200
    Quote Originally Posted by JakeV77 View Post
    Cost for a 2010 225 proxs?
    PM sent.


    Dual Mercury Master Technician- for Mercury Outboards, Mercruiser and Mercury Racing at European Marine in Greenville, SC.
    Still consider myself a "Marine Apprentice" after 45 years (learn something new every day).
    Mercury Parts, Mercury Outboards, Smartcraft & Accessories, Injector Service, TDR Reeds- BBC Sponsor

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