AT 2 switch

[craigpeters]

I have 3 separate electrical systems on my boat:
House battery (cranking, live wells, lights)
Trolling motor
Electronics (4 screens, M360, AT2)
All have a separate breaker switch.
Is there any need or benefit of putting a separate switch on just the AT2 module?

[bgibson]

I personally wire the yellow wire on the AT module to the yellow wire on the Live unit I use for Active Target (I have 2 Live units at the bow). That way if my Live is on my AT is on. In contrast if my Live I use AT is off the AT module is off. I know some like a separate switch for module. I however like this approach because of simplicity.

[Basshopper]

The most postive way to make sure your AT does not have power to it when not using it is the Yellow wire to Switch. If you have Stop Sonar on when you pull your trolling motor and then put the boat on the trailer Shut off your MFD your AT will start pinging unless you kill the power every time before the trip one. That is why it best to use the yellow wire to a switch.

[craigpeters]

Thanks guys. That's what I needed

[craigpeters]

The most postive way to make sure your AT does not have power to it when not using it is the Yellow wire to Switch. If you have Stop Sonar on when you pull your trolling motor and then put the boat on the trailer Shut off your MFD your AT will start pinging unless you kill the power every time before the trip one. That is why it best to use the yellow wire to a switch.

So they yellow wire just wakes up the module but the breaker stills supplies power to the module correct?

[bgibson]

The most postive way to make sure your AT does not have power to it when not using it is the Yellow wire to Switch. If you have Stop Sonar on when you pull your trolling motor and then put the boat on the trailer Shut off your MFD your AT will start pinging unless you kill the power every time before the trip one. That is why it best to use the yellow wire to a switch.

That is why all my electronics are run to a master cutoff switch . So I have best of both worlds!!

[Marc Marcantonio]

FYI, your electronics are on your "House" battery; vs. your "starting" battery which powers the outboard, livewells and lights.

[craigpeters]

That is why all my electronics are run to a master cutoff switch . So I have best of both worlds!!

Great idea!

[Marc Marcantonio]

I prefer to run my house battery on its own master cutoff switch, which is located right next to my starting battery cutoff. That way I keep both circuits separate so interference from an aerator, bilge pumps or the engine can bleed interference into my electronics circuit. Many never get interference but if it shows up later when a pump gets hinky it can drive you nuts trying to track it down.

[craigpeters]

Yeah, I run 3 separate cutoff switches. I was getting interference back through my system through my on-board charger

[tunamann]

That is why all my electronics are run to a master cutoff switch . So I have best of both worlds!!

Actually, best IMHO is to have a cutoff for the house battery, but wire the AT2 yellow wire(s) to an accessory switch so that they can be shut off at will from the bow when not needed. I can still run my graphs and not draw power for the AT2 modules when not needed.

[craigpeters]

Actually, best IMHO is to have a cutoff for the house battery, but wire the AT2 yellow wire(s) to an accessory switch so that they can be shut off at will from the bow when not needed. I can still run my graphs and not draw power for the AT2 modules when not needed.

Perfect

[craigpeters]

Actually, best IMHO is to have a cutoff for the house battery, but wire the AT2 yellow wire(s) to an accessory switch so that they can be shut off at will from the bow when not needed. I can still run my graphs and not draw power for the AT2 modules when not needed.

I had an extra switch. Thanks for the tip

[HiTorq]

I personally wire the yellow wire on the AT module to the yellow wire on the Live unit I use for Active Target (I have 2 Live units at the bow). That way if my Live is on my AT is on. In contrast if my Live I use AT is off the AT module is off. I know some like a separate switch for module. I however like this approach because of simplicity.

<---Confused by this statement. If the wake up wire is connected to the MFD, when the MFD is powered off, the AT module powers off. At least this is how mine works. I've got mine wired just like Bgibson, and agree it's so simple, and no extra connections, switches to go bad etc...

Ugh, should never reply to a post when half asleep. This should have been a reply to Basshoppers statement about the the AT box needing a switch. Sorry for the confusion.