Bow roller/glass protection modifications

[WjColdWater]

Modifications to protect glass at the bow roller contact area. Patterns developed to apply 3M GATORSKINZ to protect glass in various areas.

Cutting material with heavy scissors.

GATORSKINZ applied to bow roller contact area. Prepare by cleaning glass with acetone and pre heat material with a hair dryer to make flexible. I did change the stock 4” roller to a Stoltz. I kept the stock outside caps from BCB. As mentioned in a previous thread don’t over tighten so the roller will spin freely.

Other areas I used the 3M product.





This material can be sourced from Bass Pro Shops in 2’x any length sold by the foot. It’s easy to work with and is a quality product. The bow protection will wear and need replacing so I cut extras and replace as needed. Removal is easy also hair dryer to heat it and it will come off. The adhesive backing keeps the pattern firmly in place. This keeps friction areas protected to keep your Cat in top condition.
Have a safe season guys.

[Louie]

Pull your windshields and put the clear cabinet dots in the corners, the edges of the windshields rub the consoles. You can also just change to a black non marring roller see other recent posts I commented on which one to use.

[WjColdWater]

Pull your windshields and put the clear cabinet dots in the corners, the edges of the windshields rub the consoles. You can also just change to a black non marring roller see other recent posts I commented on which one to use.

Boy,mechanical minds think alike did that mod two years ago. Great tip Louie! The 3M bow protection also provides protection if you miss the bow roller. Yep did that couple of times. I’ll check into that non marring roller for replacement also.

[Bass Cat Boats]

The urethane rollers have little marring on most products. The chosen roller, with fits inside, prevents hard jamming of the bow eye into hard urethane (Stoltz) that chips gelcoat as the solid rollers are too hard. The roller is not intended to roll. Launching and loading shallower will reduce contact. The bow should rise above the roller. If the bunks have been replaced, then odds are the tips are not pulled in and the bow is dropping.

[WjColdWater]

The urethane rollers have little marring on most products. The chosen roller, with fits inside, prevents hard jamming of the bow eye into hard urethane (Stoltz) that chips gelcoat as the solid rollers are too hard. The roller is not intended to roll. Launching and loading shallower will reduce contact. The bow should rise above the roller. If the bunks have been replaced, then odds are the tips are not pulled in and the bow is dropping.

It took several loads and launches to dial in trailer elevation for me. I can power load in most situations but I prefer to winch the last 12” to avoid damaging the bow glass. Now I don’t need to power load to the roller at all with my modifications to add the F-2 two speed to my trailer.
https://www.bbcboards.net/showthread.php?t=1246890

[mactlman]

The urethane rollers have little marring on most products. The chosen roller, with fits inside, prevents hard jamming of the bow eye into hard urethane (Stoltz) that chips gelcoat as the solid rollers are too hard. The roller is not intended to roll. Launching and loading shallower will reduce contact. The bow should rise above the roller. If the bunks have been replaced, then odds are the tips are not pulled in and the bow is dropping.

The yellow roller seem way harder than the Stoltz orange rollers. I had the OEM yellow on my Ranger and got rid of it just as fast as I could get one from Andy!

[Bass Cat Boats]

The Stoltz don't compress as they are solid. We use the non-solid, which is finned inside, so that they compress when impacted.

They should not scuff the boat and we have loaded thousands ourselves here at the factory in use.

BCB

The yellow roller seem way harder than the Stoltz orange rollers. I had the OEM yellow on my Ranger and got rid of it just as fast as I could get one from Andy!