2015 Pro XS 217 code?

[Skippy909]

Engine serial #2B114915

Today I had an intermittent alarm going off. It wouldn’t go off very long, the first couple times I couldn’t even get it pulled up on my smart craft gauge. Finally on the third time it went off I was able to see it. Smart craft read Starboard voltage low-217 non-critical. Battery was charging fine and it said non critical so I finished the day out and it never tripped again. Any direction would help. I don’t have mercury dealer that’s worth a darn within two hours of me. If I got to get it to a dealer I will. Thanks!

[Savage]

i would start by having the battery load tested

[Skippy909]

Brand new battery. Today was first day out with it. All connections were good and tight when I got home. When the alarm was going off that battery was charging at at 14.18 volts. It’s a good quality battery also, batteries plus X2.

[JOE54]

fault should be stored in freeze frames

[Skippy909]

fault should be stored in freeze frames

That would require taking to a dealer, which I’m not oppose to doing. I can’t hardly find any info online regarding this code. Was just wanting to make sure there’s not something I can check before I make the two hour drive to my closest dealer.

[Savage]

Brand new batteries fail also. Low voltage fault means the voltage WAS low. Did you charge the start battery fully before heading to the lake?

[Skippy909]

Brand new batteries fail also. Low voltage fault means the voltage WAS low. Did you charge the start battery fully before heading to the lake?

If it was the battery I don’t think the battery would be at 14.18vdc while idling.

[EuropeanAM]

If it was the battery I don’t think the battery would be at 14.18vdc while idling.

That's not a sound assumption.

Take a moment to recheck your battery connections- make sure ENGINE CABLES are installed FIRST, remaining lugs Largest to Smallest and finish off with a Stainless Nut (or Locknut) that is wrench tight. NO WING NUTS.

If you have a battery switch- it can also be the problem child (often the weakest link in the chain). Bypassing it by moving engine cable directly to the battery is one quick way to determine if the problem continues or "ceases".

[Skippy909]

I’ve done exactly everything you suggested yesterday when I got home, with the exception of checking my battery selector switch. I will check that when I get home. Also how is the battery charging at 14.18vdc not a sound assumption that the batteries not bad? The battery cranks the engine good and shows no issues on my battery monitor. Now granted my monitor can’t accurately test cca like a carbon pyle load tester can. How ever a loose connection could set a low voltage code, that I do understand. I’m just stating that there are no indications pointing to the battery. I have a pretty good grasp on 12 volt electrical systems and 12 volt batteries. I’ll check the battery selector switch when I get home. There’s no sensors or anything else to check on the outboard itself?

[Skippy909]

Don I found a thread that said a 217 low voltage code is a loss of the 5 volt reference to a sensor through a short to ground or a bad ecm and not low battery voltage. Is there any truth to this? Thanks

[EuropeanAM]

Don I found a thread that said a 217 low voltage code is a loss of the 5 volt reference to a sensor through a short to ground or a bad ecm and not low battery voltage. Is there any truth to this? Thanks

You're correct- that's a Power-2 5V Reference LOW fault. Normally related to an optional Smartcraft Sensor such as Paddlewheel, Fuel/oil harness connector corroded, Pitot sensor shorted, Digital Trim Sensor or wiring shorted, etc.

[Skippy909]

10-4, I don’t think I have any of those on my boat, but not sure. Guess I’ll get it to the shop. I did check everything over tonight and didn’t find anything. Battery selector switch was clean and tight. Thanks

[JOE54]

might wanna check water proof connector caps on any open connections

[Skippy909]

might wanna check water proof connector caps on any open connections

I checked the ones that I could see. Everything is clean, tight and corrosion free. I’ll just have to get it to the shop.

[EuropeanAM]

Look at the wiring that drapes across the top of the oil pump. Six-pin plug there, a yellow, a blue and a black w/orange stripe wire, and either a Pitot Sender OR a capped connector (3-pin) just below the starter. These are all related- you can unplug them one at a time to eliminate the individual possibilities.

[Skippy909]

Thank you Don!

[FeFanatic]

If it was the battery I don’t think the battery would be at 14.18vdc while idling.

FWIW, when idling you are reading alternator voltage to the battery. You need to check and do a load test with the engine off. Batteries can and often do show the correct voltage. It's the current you have to make sure is correct. Just because it's new doesn't mean it's any good.

[Skippy909]

FWIW, when idling you are reading alternator voltage to the battery. You need to check and do a load test with the engine off. Batteries can and often do show the correct voltage. It's the current you have to make sure is correct. Just because it's new doesn't mean it's any good.

Gotcha, I was a master tech for over 15 years in the motorcycle industry. I understand the difference between voltage and current. The thing is though, these sensors are on a 5 volt reference, the cca of the battery wouldn’t have anythitng to do with them setting a low voltage code. The battery in the case could even be bad and as long as the alternator is keeping the battery voltage at 14 volts you shouldn’t see a code set on a five volt reference line.

[EuropeanAM]

Gotcha, I was a master tech for over 15 years in the motorcycle industry. I understand the difference between voltage and current. The thing is though, these sensors are on a 5 volt reference, the cca of the battery wouldn’t have anythitng to do with them setting a low voltage code. The battery in the case could even be bad and as long as the alternator is keeping the battery voltage at 14 volts you shouldn’t see a code set on a five volt reference line.

While that is true in most instances, don't make the presumption it's true for all. If you're idling, and happen to run the trim while you have pumps and livewells going, you've exceeded the output of the alternator (easily). PCM logic (X out of Y strategy) for Power-1 and Power-2 (5V Reference Voltages) is far more stringent than battery voltage is.

What do you think happens to the 5V Reference voltages when battery voltage takes a plunge to, for sake of argument, 9.6 volts. Perhaps even lower for a split second.... short enough that the PCM remains "awake" and MPR remains closed.

Battery voltage or capacity can affect ANY or ALL electronic components on the engine... and symptoms may or may not include faults stored in the PCM Freeze Frame History.

[Skippy909]

While that is true in most instances, don't make the presumption it's true for all. If you're idling, and happen to run the trim while you have pumps and livewells going, you've exceeded the output of the alternator (easily). PCM logic (X out of Y strategy) for Power-1 and Power-2 (5V Reference Voltages) is far more stringent than battery voltage is.

What do you think happens to the 5V Reference voltages when battery voltage takes a plunge to, for sake of argument, 9.6 volts. Perhaps even lower for a split second.... short enough that the PCM remains "awake" and MPR remains closed.

Battery voltage or capacity can affect ANY or ALL electronic components on the engine... and symptoms may or may not include faults stored in the PCM Freeze Frame History.

Not gonna disagree with you Don, but when I’m watching my voltmeter for my boat battery and I’m idling across the lake and I get that 217 code and my gauge is reading 14.2vdc I know that’s not case. I know electronics can do some weird things, once again I am only stating that battery voltage was good, because it was verified. There can always be that one in a million instance where some crazy anomaly happens, but for my issue I don’t believe that’s the case.