currently have an LVS34(forward) and an AT2(scout)
wondering if i am better off with 2 AT2's -- one for forward and one for scout w/the ping sync.
currently have an LVS34(forward) and an AT2(scout)
wondering if i am better off with 2 AT2's -- one for forward and one for scout w/the ping sync.
Just had an article published about using dual AT2 units (one in Forward and one in Scout).Originally Posted by caddyjoe77
Double Your Pleasure Double your Fun
https://storage.westernbass.com/mag_...e48/index.html
ciao,
Marc
IMO it's your personal preference. If you like AT 2 on forward mode as well as the Livescope and have a Pro to run two AT's, go for it. Are you experiencing interference now?
There are many benefits to all one brand Lowrance (Ya that is what this forum is for) Learning curve is shorter , You pick up all sharing waypoints, Maps, Transducers, and No Noise with Ping Sync. And you get 2 more views with transducer pairing you can't today. Double Wide Scout and 180 view if you chose to set up that way at least you have the option. There will be another view coming sometime don't know when. Also the amp draw on 2 AT2 is less than one of the brand g product.
Thanks Marc
Do you need an HDS Pro in order to see both on the same unit at the same time (split screen)? What If I have 1 AT1 and 1 AT 2 will ping sync work?
It does require a HDS Pro as there is software that pairs the 2 AT2s You could run AT1 and At2 in separate screen but with noise no ping sync on at1.
Thanks. I wonder how bad the interference would be between an AT 1 and an AT2. Running them on separate 12 inch HDS-lives is probably an easier viewing experience for me anyways. Who needs 2-d and a map anymore up front anyways
Interesting comment, and this is what has been tripping me up - the need for a mapping unit up front. Traditionally, it's beneficial if not down right required for postitioning correctly on offshore waypoints, brush piles, etc. But perhaps with dual FFS screens, it may not be as critical. But I will admit, I really look at the map on my bow less and less. But, I am a mostly shallow water fisherman from Florida :).
In adding more fun stuff :), I'm finding it hard to fit 3 12" units on my Skeeter's narrow deck, so am considering staying with a dual stack setup, which would mean things like map, 2D/DS, SS, G360, etc would not be displayed normally as I would have two screens typically running one Forward, one Scout. I could of course switch to them as the need arose. But, I maybe could add a smaller 9/10" on a single deck/stalk mount like kong or balzout, etc - a HDS 10 Pro would be tidy little mapping unit, but maybe too small for G360 or SS use... not sure.
Anyway, re the original question - I ran two AT1's for a bit - it was nice but I did find some interferance issues depening on where I set the ranges and the angles. AT2's is supposed to eliminate that, I just with the AT scout mode was better.
I was out this past Sunday and realized I used the map a lot to follow my Track a lot, so I'm not sure what I'm going to do. Can you split a HDS (pro or live) so it shows Active Target sonar AND let's say a map? (just how we do when we split screen with maps and 2-d sonar?)
Last edited by n8cas; 03-04-2024 at 10:43 AM. Reason: forgot something
Yes, but it won't fill the pane like 2d, charts or down image. I too use my maps on the bow but have a separate unit for mapping/2d.
You can fit 3 12’s on your skeeter, I’ve got 3 12’ units on the front of a bullet and I know for sure you got more room than I do, my troller is even mounted Tennessee style. Mine are double stack and a single to the right side on the deck.
What's the voltage recommendation for that many graphs and multiple Active Targets ? In other words, which expensive 1 dedicated battery do I need to buy to strictly run JUST all these electronics? I dedicated 1 battery (from my 3 that I had set up for my old ultrex 36 volt system now that I have a Lowrance ghost configured in the 24 volt system). Even now, my navionics platinum has trouble staying booted-up without resetting often. I'm worried if I add another AT that this 12 volt 31 m deep cycle wont be the best battery.
Last edited by n8cas; 03-04-2024 at 01:12 PM.
What is your existing or planned electronics setup as of now? Depending on what all you have you may get away with a 50-60 lithium but I’d buy once cry once like the rest of us and do a 100 or 125 lithium.
I have a 125 Ionic and it runs 4 hds12’s, S3100 unit, 2 AT2’s, a helix 12, mega 360 and power poles. Now may main battery is an AGM and I got the lithium just for electronics. 2 years ago I wired the lithium parallel in with the AGM so it would get some charge while the motor is running and after a full day on the water my lithium is still above 90% charged. Before wiring it with the main battery it would still be in the 80’s on charge after a day on the water.
I'm going to use a 28V regulator and pull from my pair of Powerhouse Lithium 36V40AH batteries for the dual AT2s. My ghost barely dents them in a 10 hour day. I can go 30 hours without charging them. I have a Phoenix with the tray in the bilge, so I went with a 16V80AH for the dedicated electronics battery and the 2 36V40AH TM batteries. My crank is a X2 AGM. The Powerhouse batteries size wise mean my "Phoenix bilge tray" is free for boat cleaning supplies and a spare prop. I can remove it without taking batteries out "if" I need to get to pumps or anything. Had I opted for the 16V100AH or 36V60AH they would encroach on the tray ad take up room.
I have 1 HDS12-live at the console, 2 HDS12-lives at the bow and 1 AT, but I'd like to upgrade to 2 AT 2's. Thanks for sharing your set-up and advice - very helpful! I might need to get a new wiring harness though.
How is it possible to run all that stuff for a full day and your battery be at 80% before wiring in parallel with your AGM. Is that even recommended to have your Lithium in parallel with your AGM. Not trying to be difficult but i have 4 HDS 12's, AT and my NMEA network on a 100Ah Lithium and struggle to get 8hrs and that's with putting my units on standby.
Your issues and space constraints are a big reason I went with a single Pro-16 on the bow. 90% of the day I am using a screen with a chart on the left side, and Forward View AT2 on top and Scout View beneath it. I maximize the AT2 images as large as the screen will allow, and fill in the blank area to the left of both AT2 screens with my chart. With overlay data added everything I need for the front office is on a single screen. If ever I want larger of anything, I switch to the icon in the tray of which ever screen I want. Set this as a preset screen, and set sidescan/downscan, and 2D sonar however you like on other preset screens. I find with the chart and 2 AT3 views with overlay data everthing I need is there.
I use a 100 aHr lithium Chins battery for my 2 graphs, AT2 boxes, 3D StructureScan, and my underwater camera, and nothing else and after 8 hrs of fishing I am at 56% charge on the house battery (all standard boat electronics are on my X2 AGM starting battery. When that battery dies I will switch to a lithium 125 aHr starting battery.)
ciao,
Marc
it is very doable as I have done. I wired my lithium with my AGM 2 years ago as a test and it’s been great since day it. There is a post in the electrical forum with me and another member experimenting with a hybrid setup like I’ve done. If you have your system on a single 100ah lithium and you can’t get more than 8hrs even with putting your units in standby then you must have a wiring issue or some power being drawn somewhere else. Did you run new power runs or tie into the factory wiring? What lithium battery are you using? I have a 12ga wire run from my lithium to a fuse block under the console for the console units, the 3100 box and a SS3D setup. The factory length leads from the all lowrance power plugs reach to that block. I also have 2 separate 10ga runs from the lithium to fuse blocks at the bow, one is for the lives and AT2’s and the other is for the helix and mega 360. I have honestly went 2.5 days without having to charge any batteries at all, I also have 100ah ionics for the troller as well. Staying at a full hotel last summer for the minn kota owners tourney I did not have anywhere to park close to an outlet to connect the charger so I just let it be and it all worked out fine for the full weekend.
I am leaving out this Friday for a week long trip in Florida and I will post some pics and screenshots of my power levels when we start one morning, midday and when we’re done for that day. I don’t think we will be doing alot of running the first day or 2 so it won’t be getting “charged while running” much except for on the way out and the way back in.
You will definitely benefit from running new dedicated power wire for all that. You don’t need to buy a prebuilt harness, I never priced myself them but am sure they’re pricey. I just ordered 10ga duplex anscor power wire (red/black white sheathed) and blue sea fuse blocks on Amazon. You could get by with a 12ga run just to the console, that would be plenty big enough with just 1 unit. You may need 10ga there depending on where you plan to mount your at2 boxes and wire them up at. Both my at2 boxes are mounted and wired in at the bow fuse block.
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