AT1 - On/Off Switch Connection

[Pepe.Parisien]

Good morning, everyone - I hope my question is an easy one - I have attached a front and back pic of the on/off switch that I will installing on my bow for my AT1. Can anyone tell me what "prongs" will be the positive and negative and yellow wires?

To clarify, my current AT setup comes directly from power harness on standalone lithium battery (through a master power switch powering my electronics only). My aim is to have this switch for the AT only.

What do you guys think?

Thanks

Pepe

[mikeky]

There won't be a power connection per say, only the yellow wire and a negative wire. I'm guessing the two closest together will be for the yellow wire, use a meter to check for continuity when the switch is in the "on" position. You just want to have the switch turn the box on and off. Whichever two are on/off, the other one will be for a negative wire. The negative wire is needed only for the light on the switch. The yellow wire may or may not provide enough power to turn on the light. Mine is a very small LED and there is enough power for the light.

[Pepe.Parisien]

Thanks, MIkeky - I'll give that go

[caddyjoe77]

not an expert, but i was told that yello and red needed to be on same prong. I have a LS and AT2 on the same switch. there are 4 pos prongs and 1 neg prong.

both sides (LS and AT2) go to on prong each--> AT2 red and yellow and red from LS. The other 2 pos prongs go to the power block. All three negs together and go to neg side of power block. it is my understanding that the neg need to be there for the light portion of the switch.

not sure it At1 is different from AT2 power wire wise but that is how i did mine and everything works.

if I did this wrong, please speak up

[Savage]

The "yellow" and "red" wires should never be connected together.
Red connects to 12 volt positive
Yellow wire is a low voltage output from the HDS unit, which acts as a trigger wire to turn a "Module" ON.

Check out 8:30 on this video >>>>>

[justinp61]

There will be a ground, a power feed “in” and the yellow “out” wire. If the switch wasn’t lighted it wouldn’t need a ground.

[caddyjoe77]

The "yellow" and "red" wires should never be connected together.
Red connects to 12 volt positive
Yellow wire is a low voltage output from the HDS unit, which acts as a trigger wire to turn a "Module" ON.

Check out 8:30 on this video >>>>>

will definitely fix -- thank you. ill go yellow from HDS unit to yellow of AT2 -- thank you

[Savage]

Yep, just switch between the two yellow wires.

[Marc Marcantonio]

will definitely fix -- thank you. ill go yellow from HDS unit to yellow of AT2 -- thank you

I don't recommend connecting the yellow wire from an HDS unit to the AT2 yellow wire because you cannot shutoff the AT2 independently to conserve power when not needed. Connecting the AT2 yellow to a switch offers more flexibility.

[Savage]

If he installs his ON/OFF switch between the HDS yellow output wire, and the AT2 yellow input wire it will accomplish his goal also.

[Marc Marcantonio]

Not as well as a dedicated switch. If for some reason his HDS unit fails, or he wants to shut it off, he will not be able to use his AT. I get what you are saying if his connected HDS is dedicated to only AT, but sooner or later that will likely change and cause confusion. But hey, there is more than one way to do things...

[Savage]

If he wants his HDS unit to stay ON and the AT2 to be OFF (to save power, thread #9), then the switch between the yellow HDS (output) wire and the AT2 yellow input wire, would be in the OPEN position. This accomplishes the same triggering ON/OFF as having 12 volt DC from another switched accessory power source, but at a lower voltage according to Lowrance.

Agree the what if's goes both ways. What if the accessory dash switch fails to turn on/off ? There is no AT2, or you can't turn off AT2.

[Pepe.Parisien]

Hi, fella's - just to clarify: my HDS is wired on it's own separate power feed (as if no FFS was being used). My question/concern is solely for the "black box" (wired on it's own separate power feed as well) to be connected to the on/off switch as posted at beginning of thread.

Thanks for all the input, everyone - however, I'm still confused lol ......................................... maybe someone has a basic drawing (there are many posted on line, but so many configurations that I get thrown off).

[justinp61]

There are several ways to wire the switch in your photo that will work. Most likely the terminal on the top of the image is for the ground, there should've been a diagram on the package, if not a multi meter is your friend. The only reason that switch needs a ground is for the light, the ground for your AT box doesn't have go there, it can with a piggyback terminal end or double the wires in the terminal end. I prefer to use fuse panels with ground busses on them, Blue Seas are good ones.

1- Ground, 12v on the line side (power in), yellow and red wire for AT box on the load side (power out) of the switch. Your AT box will need a ground source, it has to be the same battery as the power is coming from. Power source to switch will need to be fused.

2- Ground, yellow from head unit on the line side, yellow to AT box on load side. Your AT box will need a power and ground source. AT power will need to be fused

3- Ground, 12v from power source on line side, yellow wire to AT box on load side. You AT box will need a power and ground source, AT power will need to be fused, I'd probably fuse the switch power with a very low amp fuse.

[Savage]

Justinp61 gets it !

4- Yellow output wire HDS unit connected directly to Yellow input wire on Active Target Module.


There are multiple ways to control the active target module. In every instance the yellow input wire on the Active Target module needs to be triggered/excited by positive DC voltage.


Do you want the HDS 9 Live on the bow to turn the Active Target module off/on, when you push the on/off button on the HDS 9 Live on the bow?

[Ed R]

This is my active target switch at the bow.B3.jpg....It is the basic switch that you are showing. Connect yellow in / yellow out. Yellow out back to red wire or common power. If the switch is lighted, connect a negative to a ground source behind the switch panel.

AT wire.jpg

[Ed R]

^

[Ed R]

^

[Pepe.Parisien]

Thanks, fella's - I think you've "dumbed it down" perfectly for me - appreciate all the input!!!!!!!