Trim pump rear bolt/stud head snapped off

[massbays]

when you remove the bracket the motor will slightly drop to that side. Just need to fill the gap with something.
I'm pretty familiar with that boat.
Tilt the motor completely up, set the trailer brkt (port side). undo 6 bolts holding trim into brkt, operate trim down, motor will stay up on brkt, trim will raise itself up towards trim pin.
try to swing trim assy from between brkts and you will see how much room you need. Looks like it will almost come out but it doesn't.
than you block to the tilt tube, back off tilt tube nut,unbolt stbd brkt and slide it to stbd until the trim assy pivots out of brkt.
at this point you can reinstall sbd brkt if your nervous.

[jkscarab]

Massbays, Thanks again!! I'm getting you....

1) One question is you wrote : " Tilt the motor completely up", I have no power trim!! The motor is in the full up position (trailer brake engaged) obviously up position to get to the trim pump.

2) Next you wrote "undo 6 bolts holding trim into brkt, operate trim down, motor will stay up on brkt, trim will raise itself up towards trim pin.
Again, I cannot "operate the trim down" as I have no power trim (trim pump bad) so are you suggesting I manually lift/lower the motor ???

Once, I get the above two points I feel fairly prepared to begin this project!!
Great info!! Huge huge thanks!!

[massbays]

Guess I didn't think that thru !!!
Stbd side of trim unit down low is a manual release, white plastic knob with a large screwdriver slot.
it's held in place by a stainless E ring, remove ring counterclockwise remove screw from housing (it's going to leak a pint of oil)
than you can lift and lower the trim assy at will

[jkscarab]

Massbays, More thanks for your insight but Yes, I understand where and how the manual release valve works that is how I lifted the motor originally. Given your answer (about manual release) you are suggesting I manually lift/lower the motor (which is a heavy beast manually!!) as above copy/paste ?

2) Next you wrote "undo 6 bolts holding trim into brkt, operate trim down, motor will stay up on brkt, trim will raise itself up towards trim pin.
Again, I cannot "operate the trim down" as I have no power trim (trim pump bad) so are you suggesting I manually lift/lower the motor ???

[JOE54]

still traveling ?????

[massbays]

I'm not saying manually lifting motor as it's up on it's trailer brkt.
I'm saying manually lift the trim assy inside of the brkts.

[jkscarab]

Thanks again Joe for your help. Your experience and excellent explanation are very rare these days. As an fyi, you were correct, Five Star is the name of the company who does the tilt & trim rebuild. I will attach contact info for others.
Thanks again JOE!!!!! fivestar.JPG

[JOE54]

.......

[jkscarab]

Thanks again all for your thoughtful answers and help.
Im closing in on getting the darn trim assembly off the motor but need a little pro expertise/help.

In looking at the attached pic. I show the boat/transom bracket and lower motor strbd lower mounting nut.

Problem: I loosened up the lower nut on the motor strbd bracket and when "tapping" this bolt/stud with a hammer the bolt does not move/does not go into the transom bracket.

Assumption: I assumed the bolts holding the motor brackets onto the transom bracket are all thru bolts (top mounting bolt has bolt head easily exposed to be removed).
However, the bottom mounting bolt head cant be seen (its inside the transom bracket) and when I tap lower bolt/stud the bolt WILL NOT go into the bracket.

Question: Is this lower mounting bolt just sorta “fused” to the transom bracket and perhaps glued with 3m 5200 (avoid leaks) and hence hard to move or is the mounting bolt actually a stud welded to or something similar to the transom bracket?

>>What the heck do I do to get the strbd lower bolt out to allow the strbd motor bracket to move to the right to allow the trim assembly to fall down?



transom bracket.JPG

[massbays]

usually there is a plastic access plate in the top surface of the outboard brkt, 4" or so.

[jkscarab]

Hey Massbays, Yes, I just found that 4" :) The boat is not local but I assume you are suggesting I look in the transom bracket to see if there is a bolt head?

Lets assume there is a bolt head within the transom bracket....that darn bolt is still not moving. I assume just "hammer" at the bolt from the outside or butane heat the area to expand and the bolt will EVENTUALLY move in or ?

[massbays]

Yes there is a bolt head in there.
It's a stainless bolt thru a thin aluminum brkt.
it's salt corroded in place, hammer it thru to inside of brkt.

[jkscarab]

Massbays ="hammer it thru to inside of brkt." Got it!! Thanks for your continued sound advice!!

[EuropeanAM]

"The joys of Salt or Brackish Water".

[jkscarab]

grommet.jpggrommet.jpg
Finally got my Tilt/Trim assembly back from Five Star Marine in New Port Ritchie who did a fabulous job. Highly recommend. Final bill $1200 for complete trim assy rebuild including new trim motor and epoxy paint.

Problem: trying to dress the new trim motor wires through the cowling (through the grommet){2 wire round trim motor}.
Im not sure the attached photo is my "grommet" as this part does not appear in the service manual anywhere (Merc 1997 250efi (2 stroke serial # 0g509105). So, pic for attention I guess.....
What is the process to “fish” the new trim motor wires through the cowling grommet?

Possible Solutions:

1. Do I need to split the bottom cowling to remove the trim wire grommet and dress wires through grommet?
2. Anyone have any luck greasing up the grommet and forcing the new trim wires (and bullet connectors individually) through the grommet?

Any thoughts most appreciated.

[massbays]

I do both! split the cowling so you can see what your doing.
lube the electric cables and push the male connectors thru the grommet one at a time.

[EuropeanAM]

19565002 is the correct part number for the Trim Motor Wiring Grommet. It's located in the Adapter Plate (Exhaust Plate section of the Parts Catalog). Came right up in that section with your serial number at: www.mercurypartsonline.net

The grommet is split, so you can actually install it from the top side once the wires are in place. There's a single channel in the grommet for the pitot tubing (analog speed tubing). A little grease (such as 2-4-C) can be your friend when trying to get these items into place properly (with lower cowlings removed, preferably).

[jkscarab]

Thanks so much @EuropeanAM! I appreciate you taking the time to look my part number up, explaining the construction "split" and how to "grease" it into place. Needless to say I buy everything I can from you as a modest thank you for your always helpful thoughts and comments.

And @MassBays, Thank you too. Always, useful to get another pro's opinion. Thanks thanks.....

[jkscarab]

IMG_4250.jpg
For anyone following along, please see photo of 5 Star’s work on a total rebuild of a 1997 250 efi Tilt/Trim assembly.

Cost: Local dealer wanted $1,800 for this task and my bill from 5 Star was ~$1,200 including: shipping back to me, new electric trim motor, epoxy paint, 2 year warranty etc etc.

Drill out sheared-off bolt: I had a local mechanic drill out the freaking bolt holding the electric motor in place (rear bolt) as mentioned in the beginning of this thread at a cost of $200 and was happy to pay him as it is a long bolt and nothing to work with (broke off flush to aluminum housing). I asked 5 star if they would have drilled out the broken bolt and they said absolutely; "we have seen it all" and their cost would be "$25.00/bolt."

BIG Thanks again to everyone here who gave me the confidence to tackle this job. I felt like I had a “buddy” in the ready for any issues I hit as I went along.

>>>> Special thanks to EuropeanAM, MassBays, Joe54. You guys are awesome!!

[EuropeanAM]