Just ordered my first Garmin products, the 106 ultra & lvs-34. What battery are you guys using to power the unit? LiPo4? AGM? And finally size and amp hrs. Thanks
Just ordered my first Garmin products, the 106 ultra & lvs-34. What battery are you guys using to power the unit? LiPo4? AGM? And finally size and amp hrs. Thanks
I’m using an amped outdoors 48Ah. Small and weighs about 7lbs. I can usually fish 2 days on a charge. I’m running 2-126sv and live scope off of it.
https://ampedoutdoors.com/products/4...c-with-charger
Help me understand that. (I'm in the process of figuring out how to power my system.) Two 126sv units and the GLS10 LVS... that's about 7-8 amps x 8 hrs = 56 to 64 amp hrs. (Twice that if you're fishing 2 days on a single charge) How do you do it with that little battery.Originally Posted by RipNLips
I want to power a 126 and a 102 plus LVS. I sometimes fish 10 hr days. I figure I need a minimum of an 80 amp hr battery, and more like a 100.
Am I missing something ?
1994 201 Champ re-powered with a 250 HO G2 E250LHAFA 05438419
Actual amp draw can vary from what Garmin list on their site. My set up is 2 106's and one 126 graph. Brightness is set at 100,
2 each LVS 32 Live scope systems. I'm running a 125ah Ionic. Using the Ionic Bluetooth app on my phone amp draw normally shows that I'm drawing 8 amps.
My cranking battery
I run the same combo and use an Ionic 30ah Lithium. Here is a pic of the free bluetooth app. Both devices draw 2.7 amps combind. 30ah / 2.7a = 11.1 hours run time.
I power my LVS 34 and 106 SV with a 50 AH Litime..6 hour day and I still have 70 percent left.
I run one Ionic Lithium 12v 50ah which is dedicated to my LiveScope system…Last forever
You can also increase battery life by putting the console units in sleep mode when you’re at the bow fishing.
You can also do the same with your units while your at the console.
Why use a separate battery for livescope????
2002 Triton 190 FS , 200 EFI, 25 tempest plus, Garmin Force, Garmin 10 Ultra sv, LVS 34, 2 Garmin UHD 93sv
Because some people think it's mystical and magical and needs a small nuclear power plant to power it up.
1) clean power ----- If you use a separate Lithium battery, you don't have the concerns of interference that may be riding the shared motor battery circuit.
2) Convenience ----- The wires on the GLS10, are relatively short and if you mount a small Lithium battery (sized for the load) in a front locker, you save the aggravation of wire pulls and/or purchasing cable extensions.
3) eliminate additional loading on the house battery. this only matters if it is marginal.
I try to drive as if my 16 year old Grandson is following me
Speak as if he is listening and act as if he is watching
GLS10 only draws about 1.2a LOL. Why do people make things so complicated?
I agree if it is just the GLS10. I assumed the Ultra would be on the same power supply. That’s how mine is set up.
I try to drive as if my 16 year old Grandson is following me
Speak as if he is listening and act as if he is watching
I use this Amped Outdoors 14.8v NMC battery inside a Ice Hole powerbox with my 106sv and gls 10.
https://ampedoutdoors.com/products/1...tery-14-8v-nmc
https://www.iceholepower.com/product-page/ihp-boat-box
I get a little more than 6 hours of run time now but I’ll probably upgrade to the 32ah NMC battery for this year.
2010 Nitro Z7
Mercury Optimax 150
Garmin 106SV(bow), 106SV(console)
Cayuta Creek Outdoors
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCw3...UvSxaeLpzFyYHA
Because some people think it's mystical and magical and needs a small nuclear power plant to power it up.
This little gem pairs up nicely with the LVS34
Compact and powerful.
https://www.oreillyauto.com/flux-capacitor
Eh... maybe I'll just stay with my 3 1/2 year old X2....
1994 201 Champ re-powered with a 250 HO G2 E250LHAFA 05438419
This.
Don't buy into the whole dedicated power trend unless you're a pro running 5 graphs with multiple black boxes and 360 etc.
'13 Triton 19SE 225 Pro XS
'09 Chevy Silverado Z71
There's nothing like a little hyperbole to get your point across!
While there's some truth to what duracraftman says, it doesn't take as many units as he says to put a serious drain on your cranking battery. I ran two units from a cranking battery with no issues for a few years. The only time it was a problem was when the weather got cold. When cranking up the motor in mid-30-degree temperatures, one of the graphs would occasionally go under voltage and power down. When adding a GLS10 black box and upgrading one unit to be a larger screen, I decided to go with dedicated power as a precaution. I'd rather not rely on my trolling motor to get back to the landing in the cold.
Some folks seems to swear that dedicated power is somehow "clean" power. I could be wrong, but I'm not convinced it is necessary. I'm far more worried about the proximity of the transducer signal cable to sources of electromagnetic noise than I am concerned about the noise produced at the unit's power cable. I'm under the assumption that the DC regulator inside each of my sonar units is fully capable of providing clean power to the electronics within the unit as long as the input voltage is within its accepted range. Again, I could be wrong about that, but I bet I'm not.
Dedicated 16v Lithium
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