Is there a schedule to use for this?
Is there a schedule to use for this?
every 3-4yr should work ok
2022 z519 cup 225 merc 4s ser # 3B210484. 2--hds12 live units. 2 poles, atlas plate, ghost, hamby's, active target, merc digital gauges
2002 basscat pantera 3 (dad bought new) sold 8-2-22
2000 stratos 20 ss (bought new) 200 hp Rude ficht great boat/motor sold 11-21
pulled by a 2500HD Denali
proud dad of an ARMY Captain
MAGA
ASE/GM Master tech before tools
When you rebuild with new parts.
Trailer or truck?
for a trailer you should change brake fluid every 2-3 years as it’s hydrophilic and will absorb water over time leading to rust. At least for DOT3 brake fluid.
Hydraulic steering in the boat, not sure but probably 5 years are so is ok.
In The truck, go by manufacturer’s recommendations
Mercury 2002 200hp Carbed Saltwater
OT566776
2002 Cape Horn 22' Bay
never seen or heard of one.Originally Posted by BoatNoobie
Does it go bad ?
In 50 years of boating I've never had a reason to change brake fluid or power trim fluid. My last 4 boats have had hydraulic steering and I've never changed it either
I did have to replace brake fluid in one that had a line break.
My .02
Boat trailer, I did mine annually. The fluid will absorb water as mentioned and that leads to rust and also brake fade because the boiling point of the fluid is lowered. They sell a tester for under 25 bucks that will show you the level of water in the fluid. I have one of these testers and for me it worked out to be annually...
https://www.amazon.com/Precision-Det...LZgfD_BwE&th=1
In the truck. A full flush any time the brakes are replaced. I have a motive pressure bleeder which makes the job super easy. I do check it on occasion but if im already doing brakes why not do the job completely regardless of fluid condition.
My motorcycles are also done annually. My Ducati would literally burn the rear brake and clutch fluid.
Believe if I was that worried about it---- switch to DOT 5 next time and be done with that yearly expense and trouble.
You should change the fluid any time you rebuild the brake calipers or if it turns brown or dirty looking. That means it has been contaminated.
Ranger Boats / Mercury Motors
G Loomis Rods / Shimano Reels
Raymarine / MinnKota Ultrex
Garmin / Live Scope Plus
Pepper Jigs / Robo Worms
Troll Bridge / V-T2 Vents
I never worried about it one bit, I simply let testing data be my guide. Time and expense, 15 min of my time and $5 worth of fluid is no big deal. A motive pressure bleeder makes flushing brakes a very easy task.
Interesting.
Would like to see some boat trailer testing data. Been pulling boats with surge brakes for several decades now and never had reason to change the brake fluid. Always ready to learn something.
Simple, get a moisture meter like i linked above. Test the stuff periodically and if its over 3% moisture its time to change it. That 3% is an automotive industry standard. Over time you will develop your own data set for where you live.
For me and where i lived some 200 yards from water with a boat stored outside annually is how it worked out for me. I also strongly believe that keeping the fluid as moisture free as i could went a long way to keeping the brakes functioning. My last boat i had for 14 years and never had to replace any hydraulic parts like the master or calipers because they seized internally.
Last edited by jb882; 12-07-2023 at 01:41 PM.
LOL---14 years is exactly how long I had my 2006 model. The fluid did get replaced once as a brake line rubbed the frame until it started leaking.
Other than that no brake issues in the dry heat of my location.
I have never changed fluid in my steering or trailer brake lines since I have owned my 2004 Triton. Never had any issues. I have often wondered if I should be doing it through. Seems like it would be a PITA to do though.
Triton TR196DC / 200 Mercury Optimax- serial# 0T995641
Dual HB 12" SI Helix Units
HB Mega 360
Garmin 1222 / LVS34 LiveScope
Dual 12' Minn Kota Talons
MotorGuide Tour TM
Bob's Hydraulic Jackplate
Toyota Tundra SR5
There you go, different climates require different things. Wet New England 200 yards from a lake is going to be very different than the dry heat of Amarillo Texas. That is why data and facts are important, one size does not fit all.
Answer as mentioned, get a tester, if it says its good leave it alone, if not flush it.
With the right tools it’s easy. A $50 power bleeder makes real quick work of it. I could do a full flush on my trailer in 15 min and i could do the same on my tandem axle RV in a similar amount of time.
handy tool
best I recall it took me half a day to replace fluid the one-man old fashioned way.
Which power bleeder adapter did you get for your trailer?
Brake fluid, I always look at color every year or so. Have never had an issue to replace any brake fluid. Hydraulic steering, again no reason to replace it in my opinion. It will leak long before the hydraulic fluid goes bad.
Bryan McDonough
2023 Nitro Z21 XL
Nitro Team
When i had a trailer with a UFP coupler i had the "press fit" adapter. When i got a new boat that came with a Tie Down Engineering coupler that didn't fit. My father ended up making me one in his machine shop that fit that trailer. Both my last RV and current one use a late model GM style.
Every 3-4 seasons is a good idea for brake fluid. DOT 3 and DOT 4 are hygroscopic. They absorb water from the air and with contact with water. The more water is absorbed the lower the boiling point. A lower boiling point will make the fluid vulnerable to boiling as the hard parts heat up from friction when brakes are applied.
Get the bake system flushed during every other water pump impeller replacement.
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