Anyone ever seen this? Noticed my throttle linkage touching the bolt head. Pulled it out and it's broke off inside the cylinder. Now I know where the gunk is coming from on front of motor. So what harm has been done if any. Try to Extract or remove crankcase?
Torque spec on this bolt please? Also what's Installation procedure and sealant used if I pull the crankcase?
RJ175PLSIF. 01 175 JOHNSON
Recommend you do not take this job on without a service manual. All your questions are answered there. See the stickies at the top of this forum. Use a 2000 or 2002, 2003 manual.
one broken bolt means that may be more ready to fail.
once the seal between the two crankcase halves is broken, it is doubtful just replacing the single bolt will effectively seal the two halfs. Leaks cause a lean condition and poor running quality. Meaning I believe a powerhead repair is in your future.
Okay so I took the crankcase apart. Extracted the bolt. It wasn't bound up just broke. I was able to back the piece right out. Is there a trick to getting the dowel pins back into the bearings? BTW motor is in great shape otherwise. Still not sure why it broke. Glad I took it apart as I found stator goop had worked it's way into the top crank seal.
It's a by feel kind of thing, lower the crankshaft into the back half, and spin the bearings you'll feel them drop into the pins. I use a magic marker to mark both sides of the bearings for a reference before I remove the crank.
Thank you. I was thinking about the bolt...I have another locked up motor here and used a 52in pry bar to break the crankcase loose due to a stripped bolt head. (Crankcase was busted anyway.) The crankcase broke in half and the bolt was still soundly in place. They appear to be grade 8 hardened bolts. I'm still not sure how 33lbs of torque or anything broke it. Could it be possible it was dropped before install or weak from manufacturing?
Everything is back together. Found nothing hurt. Motor turns free by hand. Re sealed crankcase and reassembled with new bolt. Tomorrow will tell whether I did good or I failed. Fingers crossed gents.
Originally Posted by Ganno595
how did it run??
2022 z519 cup 225 merc 4s ser # 3B210484. 2--hds12 live units. 2 poles, atlas plate, ghost, hamby's, active target, merc digital gauges
2002 basscat pantera 3 (dad bought new) sold 8-2-22
2000 stratos 20 ss (bought new) 200 hp Rude ficht great boat/motor sold 11-21
pulled by a 2500HD Denali
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kinda meh. it didnt lock up so thats good. still chasing a loss on the top end
How's the timing look? Plates opening fully at WOT?
I've gone over everything I could think of. Comp numbers good 95-100 port bank 100-105 starbd. Replaced all ignition components. Stator leaking goop. Power pack and EET cause it was a good deal (it's only money right). Coils cause I dropped em all and the cases cracked. (Don't ask). Wires. New carb kits gaskets and intake gaskets. Have had both stock reeds and ficht cages innit. Couldn't tell much if any difference so I put the stocks back in cause the fichts didn't line up with the sealing bead on the new style gaskets cause they're a little too short. Anyway new fuel pump diaphragm. Still no change. Boat runs hard to 5100 then it hits a wall. Speed has decreased so I know rpms are accurate.
2 questions. I did find my Reg/Rec wasn't charging right. Replaced with a used one I had and now I'm getting correct charging voltages. (All connections are clean and tight). I know on some motors that will mess up ignition. Has one ever been attributed to poor performance on the eagles? I haven't had it to the lake since I've changed it.
Secondly I changed the middle section of the Fuel pump cause there was some liquid in the pulse hose. Maybe it was leaking burning rich.
Lastly what are the odds that cleaning the main jets out with a soft nylon/plastic carb brush widened them a bit and now it too rich. I hit em all about 5 strokes when I cleaned the carbs.
Sorry yes link and sync and timing good and verified. Verified TDC.
Roller on throttle in tact.
Hitting choke at 5000 and it falls on its face.
Decarbed as well. New plugs.
Last edited by Ganno595; 12-28-2023 at 07:44 AM.
Have you verified proper size orifices(jets) are in carbs? Verified no one has hogged them out?
Age and treachery will always overcome youth and skill !!
If it bogs when the key is pushed in then it is an electrical issue, if it was fuel it would have picked up.
This happened within my ownership. Boat used to run a strong 5600 with a 25p trophy. Jets are 73d.
Doesn't the choke mantra only apply if it's a lean issue. If it's a (slightly) rich issue it's gonna fall on its face no matter what right?
I've seen one other post in reference to a reg/rec and the poster noted a slight loss in top end power. But like a lot of posts there wasn't any resolution.
Last edited by Ganno595; 12-28-2023 at 02:56 PM.
Have you checked to see if a sleeve has turned ?,not uncommon on an O ring head motor,Chris
Best way to check that? Through plug hole or from the intake?
Okay so I used a flexible light to look through the plug holes and verified all idle relief ports are lined up perfectly. So doesn't look like there has been any sleeve rotation.
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