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  1. #1
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    Z20 loose fiberglass fenders

    I just replaced my tires and wheels. The dealer had installed 245/45 R18s on it when new. I got forced off the road hit something and bent a rim. The dealer wanted $2500 for replacements so I went to a local tire shop and ordered what should have been on it all along. When they were installing them they noticed that my fenders were loose.

    They think the oversized tires caused a different air flow coupled with bumpy roads and over time caused the bolts to loosen. They won’t tighten because of rust and the top of the bolt spinning. I have them soaking in penetrating oil. The only thing I can think of is hold the end of the bolt with vice grips and try to tighten the nuts.

    Any other ideas?

  2. Member
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    #2
    Cut and replace with stainless steel and lube the bolts with grease or antiseaze.

    Also have a z20 and steel fenders, they got loose too, had to go through and put a floor jack under them, lift them into place and retighten.

    Typical California roads for you.

  3. Member
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    #3
    That is one thing that I have considered. I would really like to just tighten them up for now.

  4. Member
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    #4
    Sometimes an impact drill with the right size socket can spin fast enough and catch the bolt on something and tighten down, try tilt the drill to a side and see if that works.

  5. Member
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    #5
    I’ve tried everything I know and nothing is working. I’ve had penetration oil on them for days. They are loose at the top. I guess I will call the Nitro service center and see if they will change them out for me.

  6. Member
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    #6
    Quote Originally Posted by Andrebass View Post
    Cut and replace with stainless steel and lube the bolts with grease or antiseaze.

    Also have a z20 and steel fenders, they got loose too, had to go through and put a floor jack under them, lift them into place and retighten.

    Typical California roads for you.
    I've had to go through and replace a bunch of hardware on my trailer. Stainless with nylock nuts are the deal vs the factory cheap hardware.
    2020 Nitro Z20 Pro Package

  7. Member
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    #7
    This is standard for Nitro trailers that are a couple years old. Just plain pisspoor design. I cut off the old bolts with a dremmel tool and cutoff wheel, replace with stainless hardware.
    2020 Nitro Z21 Pro | Mercury 250 Pro XS |Ultrex 36v 112 MDI | Solix G2 chirp/mega SI 10 and 12 |Garmin 93sv UHD w/LiveScope| 8' PowerPole Blades


  8. Moderator Fishysam's Avatar
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    #8
    Put a wrench on the nut, grab the threads with a vise grip and tighten, you. Can do this a couple times. But eventually you will have to peal back the non slip tread and remove the non stainless bolt. After seeing how mine was constructed I opted to lay the tread back down and drill through it, using stainless hardware a large washer and new he. Bolt so i could pinch the fender to the mounting bracket. Works well not as clean of finish but i dont slip when i am on the bolts
    Mercury 250 proxs 2B115089

  9. Member
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    #9
    You would think some one at Nitro would see these threads and realize their biggest complaints are the touch pads and trailers.

  10. Member 1stindoor's Avatar
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    #10
    Quote Originally Posted by Fishysam View Post
    ...But eventually you will have to peal back the non slip tread and remove the non stainless bolt. ...
    Yep!...I chose to reglue the tread down though.
    2016 Nitro Z21
    "They who can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety, deserve neither liberty nor safety." Benjamin Franklin

  11. Moderator Fishysam's Avatar
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    #11
    Quote Originally Posted by 1stindoor View Post
    Yep!...I chose to reglue the tread down though.
    Yes i used some adhesive

  12. Member
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    #12
    Quote Originally Posted by pitbully71 View Post
    This is standard for Nitro trailers that are a couple years old. Just plain pisspoor design. I cut off the old bolts with a dremmel tool and cutoff wheel, replace with stainless hardware.
    This is what you will find once you pull the non-skid. Two layers of fiberglass with a wood filler between. I replaced the "carriage type" bolts with SS hex-head for later tightening, filled the cavity between the fiberglass with Marine Tex to seal the rotted wood from deuterating further. Once all that was done, I cut a small hole in the non-skid to reveal the hex head bolt and re-glued to the fenders. Long process, but now I can tighten when loose as needed and knowing what I'm tightening against. My trailer is a 2015 tandem axle.Fender (1).jpgFender (4).jpg
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  13. Member
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    #13
    Quote Originally Posted by 2014 nitro z7 View Post
    You would think some one at Nitro would see these threads and realize their biggest complaints are the touch pads and trailers.
    After installing my own rocker switch conversion, I don't think Nitro is doing touch pads for aesthetics. I bet they are saving significant money using touchpads and computer ecu sized wiring vs running full size wiring to switches, not to mention the cost of decent quality marine rocker switches.
    2020 Nitro Z20 Pro Package

  14. Member
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    #14
    Somebody at Nitro reads these threads, they have modified a bunch of stuff that we have mentioned.

    I am sure they are trying to figure out a way to do the switch pad better, takes time, trial and error to make better. Unfortunately sometimes at our expense.

  15. Member
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    #15
    I got the specs on the screws, nuts, and washers from BPS parts and service center. I called around and found a guy who can get everything in stainless steel so I ordered enough for a complete replacement.