Cranking battery question

[Tarheel14]

98 175 EFI. OG680230. I have a 31HDS Diehard crankin battery now. Helix 7 and Solix 12. My battery went dead when I was just fishing the other day. It gets charged when I get home and the night before I go fishing. Need to take it to Advance auto an have it checked. Was thinking of downsizing the battery and getting one just for the engine. Separate battery for electronics. Good idea? My current battery weighs like 60lbs.
What would yall recommend? I dont know why my battery died. It might be bad?
Dont know what to do.

[DucksnBobs]

98 175 EFI. OG680230. I have a 31HDS Diehard crankin battery now. Helix 7 and Solix 12. My battery went dead when I was just fishing the other day. It gets charged when I get home and the night before I go fishing. Need to take it to Advance auto an have it checked. Was thinking of downsizing the battery and getting one just for the engine. Separate battery for electronics. Good idea? My current battery weighs like 60lbs.
What would yall recommend? I dont know why my battery died. It might be bad?
Dont know what to do.

I did and installed an isolator off the cranking battery. It works really well. Any time I am running the big motor and voltage goes above 13.8V, it sends charge to the electronics battery. So throughout the day, I am charging both batteries when I am making a run down the lake.

[bassfisher444]

98 175 EFI. OG680230. I have a 31HDS Diehard crankin battery now. Helix 7 and Solix 12. My battery went dead when I was just fishing the other day. It gets charged when I get home and the night before I go fishing. Need to take it to Advance auto an have it checked. Was thinking of downsizing the battery and getting one just for the engine. Separate battery for electronics. Good idea? My current battery weighs like 60lbs.
What would yall recommend? I dont know why my battery died. It might be bad?
Dont know what to do.

I have that same battery and I can 2 9" units a 10" unit and power poles for 8-10 hours with it and have never had a problem. I would say it is going bad or not charging correctly.

[JOE54]

I did and installed an isolator off the cranking battery. It works really well. Any time I am running the big motor and voltage goes above 13.8V, it sends charge to the electronics battery. So throughout the day, I am charging both batteries when I am making a run down the lake.

^^^^^ now we cooking with grease

[Tarheel14]

I have that same battery and I can 2 9" units a 10" unit and power poles for 8-10 hours with it and have never had a problem. I would say it is going bad or not charging correctly.

Thank you. I am going to take it in and have it checked by the store. Thanks again.

[Tarheel14]

I did and installed an isolator off the cranking battery. It works really well. Any time I am running the big motor and voltage goes above 13.8V, it sends charge to the electronics battery. So throughout the day, I am charging both batteries when I am making a run down the lake.

Which isolator did you use? Does this keep it from overcharging or ruining the stator on the engine?

[DucksnBobs]

Which isolator did you use? Does this keep it from overcharging or ruining the stator on the engine?

Not sure about all that business. This is the one I am using, it works well. I made sure I could use my onboard charger still and that it was rated for marine use. I run Active live, a 12" carbon, a 12" HDS live. So not a terrible amount of amperage draw but if you have livewells and other accessories on one battery, it can become a lot pretty quick. Its just peace of mind having it on a separate deep cycle battery. Only thing on my cranking is my big motor and accessories (bilge/livewells/lights etc).

https://www.keylinechargers.com/coll...al-battery-kit

[JOE54]

seem these used on lead acid flooded cell batteries with good results , thats very heavy load on stator type alternators though

[kmelford]

seem these used on lead acid flooded cell batteries with good results , thats very heavy load on stator type alternators though

lts my understanding that you shouldn’t run AGM’s with a stator (EFI). I heard the battery may heat up or swell. I changed mine for that reason. A few of my wires to the voltage regulator were discolored. I run a helix 12, 1159 and 360 all on a new lead acid cell battery without issues.

[JOE54]

you are correct you should not run those , on stator type alternator

[Tarheel14]

Update.......... Went to Advance Auto this morning. They checked the battery and it checked "good". A little low on CCA. Supposed to be 1000 reads 800. Only 1 yr warranty and Ive had it for 2 1/2 years. Weighing my options. I am going to put it back in the boat an try it again for a trip or 2. I have a small jump box just in case. If it goes dead again I will be buying a new battery.
This battery has 185 reserve minutes. 1000CCA. I dont think I need that many CCA for my engine. I do not want to go lithium just for safetys sake and its not recommended. So leaves me with another Lead Acid battery. Im open to suggestions. Something with good reserve capacity and good CCA that doesnt weigh so much. This battery weighs like 60lbs.
Thanks Brian

[JOE54]

running the locator units you have you need all you can get , the price you pay , no lithium's for this engine

[fly by night]

NAPA part #7234, a beast of a battery but it weighs around 60# also.

[Tarheel14]

Lots of recommendations for batteries plus
X2 AGM. Is this compatible with my engine?

[JohnM64]

98 175 EFI. OG680230. I have a 31HDS Diehard crankin battery now. Helix 7 and Solix 12. My battery went dead when I was just fishing the other day. It gets charged when I get home and the night before I go fishing. Need to take it to Advance auto an have it checked. Was thinking of downsizing the battery and getting one just for the engine. Separate battery for electronics. Good idea? My current battery weighs like 60lbs.
What would yall recommend? I dont know why my battery died. It might be bad?
Dont know what to do.

You are mixing old tech and Roswell 2.0:

The old tech EFI will need a dedicated lead acid battery to handle the stator, and EFI cannot charge or be connected to anything except the lead acid. Any other type of battery will fail.

New Tech - Look into a dedicated lithium for all electronics, pumps, lights. I have 125 AH Ionic running 4 graphs, scope, livewells, nav lights. Usually have 50% reserve left after full day.

Troller on its own dedicated circuit, on lithiums.

Charge lithiums and lead acid (if needed) separately.

Boat may need wire upgrade if not already done.

Shut off graphs when possible.

It won't be cheap.

[JOE54]

^^^^^^ right there

[Tarheel14]

Id like to go down in size. I have a 31HDS now. If I get a 24M battery size and a separate dedicated lithium. What is the minimum cranking amps for just starting the engine?

[JOE54]

would use no less than 850 mca

[DucksnBobs]

seem these used on lead acid flooded cell batteries with good results , thats very heavy load on stator type alternators though

should I be using a different isolator Joe? One you recommend instead? I really like the idea of an isolator and a dedicated battery to all the electronics.

[JOE54]

marine certified , i do too