Scraped the edge of my trailer loading...first couple of times I barely noticed it...but it keeps getting a little worse each time I take it out. How bad is this...should I be thinking about getting this weld repaired? Can I just go to a regular welder or do I need to find one that services Rangers?
IMG_4139.jpg
I can’t tell where the dent is located. If it is on the aluminum extrusion on the center keel, I wouldn’t worry about it. If it is the .100 aluminum hull welded together I would watch to see if it gets worse and might have it welded before it affects the joint strength.
I try to drive as if my 16 year old Grandson is following me
Speak as if he is listening and act as if he is watching
It is the back right corner of the boat.
Why is your boat hitting the trailer?Originally Posted by wsdv135
2018 Ranger RT188 SC Black/115 hp Yamaha SHO 4-stroke; Garmin LVS34 - north
2018 Ranger RT188 DC Black/115 hp Merc Pro XS 4-stroke; Garmin LVS34 - south
14' Mirrorcraft tin boat (ancient) with a 9.9 Mercury 4-stroke, no electronics; catches fish anyway
That's a good question I haven't been able to figure out. Bunks are even on both sides, measurements from bunks to trailer are same on both sides, but it won't load correctly.
I wonder if you have a weak spring on that side. A quick check would be to level the tongue and measure the distance from the bottom of the transom to the ground on each side.
This is a long shot but my 2015 had similar denting at the edge of the transom where it mates to the lower hull and it turned out to be a cracked spring on that side.
I try to drive as if my 16 year old Grandson is following me
Speak as if he is listening and act as if he is watching
My first thought is the trailer may be both too deep in the water while loading and un-level side to side due to the ramp being un-level. I would think it would take that side of the hull hitting your fender or something metal to cause a gouge like that and not just a carpeted bunk. At least if that was caused by a bunk, you would have noticeably damaged the bunk at that spot and could easily see it.
While I have the RT198p, the trailer is very similar to yours. You will find your best loading happens when you find the shallowest you can place the trailer that still allows you to drive or winch the boat up to the bow stop roller. For me, only the last 12" or so of the bunks are in the water when I load. Your goal is to have the bunks catch the hull as far forward towards the bow as possible where the is more vee in the hull bottom to aid in centering. Even when you optimize trailer depth, un-level ramps side to side and cross winds play hell with the loading process and will cause occasional cross loading.
I put my trailer initially all the way in the water while I watch for the bunks to get completely submerged. If both bunk tops disappear underwater at the same depth then the ramp is level and should not contribute to loading issues. If it is significantly un-level, I try to dunk it at an angle to correct. I avoid that ramp if I can in the future.
As for the damage to your weld, I am not a welder but it does not appear from the picture to be in need of repair. More important to correct the issue causing the hull to hit and avoid hitting that spot again.
John Walker - Matthews NC
2021 Ranger RT198P - Mercury 150 4S - Enertia Eco
VesselView Link - MotorGuide Tour Pro - Lowrance Carbons
Thanks Johnny...the corner of the tail light is hitting somehow....boat sits too far to the right for some reason. I think Bill's answer above may be on to something.
... definitely check for a weak spring as Bill suggested. If the spring is fine and trailer level on level ground, then verify if the trailer is level in the water at your ramp. Un-level ramp with trailer too deep could also easily cause this problem.
John Walker - Matthews NC
2021 Ranger RT198P - Mercury 150 4S - Enertia Eco
VesselView Link - MotorGuide Tour Pro - Lowrance Carbons
Thanks! Is there a specific way to check for a weak spring? It seems level on the ground except for boat leaning towards one direction.
If the spring is weak the boat will sit lower on the trailer on that side. With the boat and trailer on a level surface, level the tongue and measure the distance between the bottom of the transom and the ground on each side. It should be within 1/2 inch.
Mine was hitting the tail light when I had the cracked spring too.
As others have said, it is important to have the trailer straight on the ramp when loading and not back in too deep.
I have made several additions to my trailer to help with loading but the one shown is the best. On a steep ramp, the roller centers the bow and lifts it over the roller and on shallow ramps, it will center the bow with the roller.
I try to drive as if my 16 year old Grandson is following me
Speak as if he is listening and act as if he is watching
I just installed a 12 inch centering keel roller yesterday after years of loading frustrations. Hopefully it helps the RT with loading, will report back. Thanks Bill for the pictures.
Last edited by jml; 05-25-2023 at 04:30 AM.
2015 Ranger RT188
2015 115 PRO XS
I look forward to your update
Found a trailer repair shop in the Western MA area, they say the frame of the trailer is slightly bent. Makes no sense I didn’t hit anything but oh well. Can’t find any marine repair services in my area to give an opinion on the weld, no one wants to touch it.
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