919 4stroke v8 pro xs prop.

[howard47]

So I’m running 24 Fury 3 and just got 12 hours on the motor. I opened her up a little the last time on the James and with me, over 1/2 tank, an average size co angler and live wells I saw 72 and had trim left. I don’t have a hydraulic jackplate so I can’t do anything there but I’m pretty impressed so far.
I bought a balanced 24 Fury 4 that I tried on my Nitro and didn’t run too good on that boat with a two stroke so I’m gonna give it a shot on this one this weekend. Has anybody ran a four and if you did how many plugs did you use?
And I’ve read about stock Fury’s having a 4-5mph difference between the same prop but maybe I got a good one.

[Snakebitten]

The guys running the SHO having any better luck and also is the speed about the same as the Merc?

[mactlman]

I tend to agree with you, you shouldn't need anything under a 23 fury or 24 tempest.
Propping has been an issue since the 4 strokes came out. Seems like "decent" is the best most people can get them.
I'm not sure if it's the lower unit, the torque curve, ecu programming, or a combo of all.

If I were in your shoes I'd probably try to find a 21 or 22 tempest to borrow to see if the motor will actually reach 6200.

the 4S lower units are better through the water and more efficient so less prop slip thus less rpms reached

[Bjxds]

Has anyone figured anything out?

I am not 100 % sure why I lost speed/rpms. I added about 15lbs of electronics on the bow, removed 2 trolling batteries, added lithiums, and my prop is not perfect, so I am dealing with several variables.

Basscat posted weight reduction from lithiums is not the problem, as they run with minimal or no batteries for various reasons and do not see a decrease in performance. It is all about setup, lower motor, prop, and weight distribution.

Ken Smith has a video on lithiums slowing boats the math effects of weight on the front and rear.

I contacted Phoenix and they recommended as a first step to add weight and see what happens, then lower motor by 1/4 increments and see what happens. They are willing to help work thru this. We discussed props (possible lost cup) and hydro 10" vs 12" jackplates, but they recommended to wait and see previous results.


My next step is going to be to add some weight, record results, then probably get prop restored, verify pitch/cup, balanced and blueprinted, and re test. Lowering motor with manual JP is going to be a PITA with PP, so I may consider a hydro for other benefits as well.

[ThomasD]

Send your prop off to get reworked and in the mean time try lowering your motor. No need to add weight

[Bjxds]

919, PP 24 Fury, Z Lock manual,P2P originally set at 3.25. Ran 72 at 5800 and easy 68 at 5600 this was cooler weather.

I added some weight in the back and ran 65-68 at 5500ish.
I removed the weight and lowered the JP 1/2 inch and I am still at 65-68 5500ish, so it seems to have helped some.

Not sure if I should lower the JP another 1/2 inch OR remove bow graphs and M360 to see if the extra weight added to the bow has something to do with this?

[Phoenix 5]

I tried adding weight as well did not help top end only hurt hole shot. I have a hydraulic plate and have started really low and eased up through a long run. Lower is slower and harder to drive. Best I have found is 10-12 on the atlas gauge which is 3-3.5 below the pad. I am to the point of a new prop , prop work, or just realization the I basically bought a more expensive 819.

[DaveTTN]

I run a 23 Fury 73ish mph and a 24 worked fury 74-75. That’s me at 190 lbs full tank, empty live wells, my gear, no poles and agm batteries.

[Bjxds]

I removed 2 graphs and M360 from bow; speed and RMPS are about the same65-68 @5500. I am going to have prop reconditioned and possibly reworked/blueprinted and go from there.

[howard47]

Fished a tournament on the James River yesterday and with me and my partner (400 lbs), full live wells, 3/4 tank, gear, two bow graphs and a lithium up front for the livescope, cooler filled to the top, no poles, a cranking lithium and two AGM 31s I topped out at 5860 and hit 69.8 with my Fury 4 that has been worked according to the guy I bought it from on here. Hole shot with all of that would pin you in the seat and mid range and turning in the creeks was perfect. Is it slower than my stock Fury 3 24? Yes by about three to four mph. But the three would have struggled where I was yesterday or just plain sucked. Now if I’m at Kerr or Norman somewhere you got depth and straight lines I’d probably run the three.
Oh and I have a manual jackplate and pugged four of the holes with solid plugs.
Maybe it’ll help someone dial there’s in.

[Wave to Wave]

You need to get to 6100 to 6200 RPM if you want the most out of the four stroke. Running 5600 to 5800 is just holding the engine back. Dial in the right engine height with the right prop and the new ProXS will outperform the Opti for sure.

[howard47]

You need to get to 6100 to 6200 RPM if you want the most out of the four stroke. Running 5600 to 5800 is just holding the engine back. Dial in the right engine height with the right prop and the new ProXS will outperform the Opti for sure.

Ran it today with half a tank and by myself, hole shot even better and hit 72.8 at 6090. I’d say that’s close and I’m pretty happy with that. It would just cruise at 68 like a Cadillac.

[Bjxds]

I removed 2 graphs and M360 from bow; speed and RMPS are about the same65-68 @5500. I am going to have prop reconditioned and possibly reworked/blueprinted and go from there.

I had my prop reconditioned, and ran the boat several times. I am running 70 @ 5600 fully trimmed. P2P is 3.75. Can’t get past 5600 RPMS.