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  1. #1
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    Sea clear harness in 08 puma

    Has anyone installed a sea clear harness in a 08 puma.What route did you take?Thanks

  2. Member lpugh's Avatar
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    #2
    I will not install sea clear in anything, very poor design, and terrible connectors. Use the following for a guide and build your own, No duplex wiring please.
    MFDSYSTEM.jpg
    Thank You Leon Pugh

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    #3
    I've installed several. Go up the port side. You will need to remove the rear port vent and the the shifter to get a fish tape to the rear of the boat. Once you get it out at the shifter hole, you can get the rear set out at the console and stick the longer leads for the bow into the port rod box. From there, if you feel around, you will usually find a couple spots up along the cap to route the cable over and continue to the front of the boat. If you don't have the access hole below your trolling motor foot pedal, you will need to cut one in. It's not a terrible job, just takes time and will work just fine.

  4. Member 06 SB's Avatar
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    #4
    Quote Originally Posted by lpugh View Post
    I will not install sea clear in anything, very poor design, and terrible connectors. Use the following for a guide and build your own, No duplex wiring please.
    MFDSYSTEM.jpg

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  5. Member
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    #5
    Quote Originally Posted by lpugh View Post
    I will not install sea clear in anything, very poor design, and terrible connectors. Use the following for a guide and build your own, No duplex wiring please.
    MFDSYSTEM.jpg
    so why no duplex wire?

  6. Member lpugh's Avatar
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    #6
    Quote Originally Posted by BASStex1988 View Post
    so why no duplex wire?
    To bulky and most importantly the wires are not twisted pairs which helps a great deal in reducing interference. Google twisted pairs
    By following the guideline above you can build a much better system for less money than Sea Clear
    Thank You Leon Pugh

  7. Member drainplug's Avatar
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    #7
    Quote Originally Posted by BDA79 View Post
    I've installed several. Go up the port side. You will need to remove the rear port vent and the the shifter to get a fish tape to the rear of the boat. Once you get it out at the shifter hole, you can get the rear set out at the console and stick the longer leads for the bow into the port rod box. From there, if you feel around, you will usually find a couple spots up along the cap to route the cable over and continue to the front of the boat. If you don't have the access hole below your trolling motor foot pedal, you will need to cut one in. It's not a terrible job, just takes time and will work just fine.
    Did you mean Starboard side?
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  8. Member
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    #8
    Quote Originally Posted by lpugh View Post
    To bulky and most importantly the wires are not twisted pairs which helps a great deal in reducing interference. Google twisted pairs
    By following the guideline above you can build a much better system for less money than Sea Clear
    I agree you can build something as good or better than Seaclear for less money. But question for lpugh; why does Ancor brand marine duplex wire say it is also twisted pair? Are you sure these are mutually exclusive?

    The product is named "XX/2 Duplex Twisted/Shielded Pair Boat Cable", and product description says the following:
    "This round cable has a 93% tinned copper shield for maximum EMI and RFI rejection. It also has a 2-3" twisted lay for magnetic interference cancellation per ABYC 11.16.4.2.1 recommendations for use of DC current carriers in the vicinity of compasses and other magnetically sensitive devices."

    Is this not the best of both worlds or am I missing something? I'm not trying to say you're wrong, I truly want to make sure I'm not operating under false assumptions. This is the wire I've used on many installations, thinking I was getting duplex AND shsheilding AND twisted pair for noise cancelletion. For what it's worth, I have had great results in terms of picture quality, but perhaps that was luck. Thanks in advance for any clarification.
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  9. Member lpugh's Avatar
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    #9
    Quote Originally Posted by bbarthelt View Post
    I agree you can build something as good or better than Seaclear for less money. But question for lpugh; why does Ancor brand marine duplex wire say it is also twisted pair? Are you sure these are mutually exclusive?

    The product is named "XX/2 Duplex Twisted/Shielded Pair Boat Cable", and product description says the following:
    "This round cable has a 93% tinned copper shield for maximum EMI and RFI rejection. It also has a 2-3" twisted lay for magnetic interference cancellation per ABYC 11.16.4.2.1 recommendations for use of DC current carriers in the vicinity of compasses and other magnetically sensitive devices."

    Is this not the best of both worlds or am I missing something? I'm not trying to say you're wrong, I truly want to make sure I'm not operating under false assumptions. This is the wire I've used on many installations, thinking I was getting duplex AND shsheilding AND twisted pair for noise cancelletion. For what it's worth, I have had great results in terms of picture quality, but perhaps that was luck. Thanks in advance for any clarification.
    This wire is great, especially with the shield. Keep in mind that the shield should be grounded to act as a drain wire. Is quite expensive though and limited in sizes availble.
    Most duplex wire is not twisted or shielded,
    I do my own twisting and add shielding where I think it is needed.
    Last edited by lpugh; 05-16-2023 at 03:06 PM.
    Thank You Leon Pugh

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    #10
    Leon, thanks for clarifying. I'm not an electrician, and I don't even play one on TV. But I'm trying to learn. I did not know the shield should be grounded. That's especially helpful.
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  11. BBC SPONSOR Bass Cat Boats's Avatar
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    #11
    lpugh is good at this. He's right and the wire without shielding is not emitting that much EMI when it is scoped. Those selling harnesses and saying they are silencing the EMI and the cabling some sell will not silence EMI. The connectors are also very sub standard and will have corrosion in the manner they join on some brands harnesses.

    BCB
    Last edited by Bass Cat Boats; 05-16-2023 at 10:15 PM.

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    #12
    Quote Originally Posted by drainplug View Post
    Did you mean Starboard side?
    Yes long day lol

  13. Member lpugh's Avatar
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    #13
    Quote Originally Posted by Bass Cat Boats View Post
    lpugh is good at this. He's right and the wire without shielding is not emitting that much EMI when it is scoped. Those selling harnesses and saying they are silencing the EMI and the cabling some sell will not silence EMI. The connectors are also very sub standard and will have corrosion in the manner they join on some brands harnesses.

    BCB
    Nice to see someone on these forums understands using a scope to help locate interference
    Thank You Leon Pugh

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    #14
    I did something very similar to what Leon did for the diagram. Since I use my livescope system on a shuttle in the winter time and have a stand alone battery for it already, I completely isolated the livescope battery from the rest of the electronics in my boat. I ran an 8 gauge line from the battery to a blue sea systems fuse distribution block mounted under the console. The three birds, M360, lights, and USB chargers all run off that fuse block.