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  1. #1
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    ? for the gunsmiths... Or anyone who has restored / refinished an older gun

    Ran across a crusty rusty .38 special at a gun show. Picked it up as I have been looking at giving a refinish a go. It has some mild rust pitting that ill be getting after tomorrow by sand blasting. What all is able to be used for filling? I read about a product made by duracoat for filling. Just curious if its really anything special specific for firearms. I plan on cerakoting and cant see why a light filler on non contact areas would hurt.

    Thoughts.

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    #2
    Every restoration video I have seen shows filing or sanding to remove material down to the level of the pit. If it is deep pitting you are just going to have to live with it. Main objective should be preventing it from ever getting worse.

    I would prefer parkerization over duracoat on a revolver but it should serve the purpose of protecting it just fine.

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    #3
    You can probably find the answers if you dig through UTube vids but I found it easier to join Rimfire Central. There are separate forums for the metal gunsmithing topics vs stock repair/refinishing. I did a quick search and saw this 10 y.o. thread but didn't see a lot of solutions offered other than to search content by a certain member. https://www.rimfirecentral.com/threa.../#post-4438898

    There are several members who do full restoration projects so I'm sure someone has the info you need
    Some people are so judgemental. You can tell just by looking at 'em.--Some random meme

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    #4
    If the pits are deep, I’d use JB weld as a filler after blasting, and then lightly blast again after filling to even the surface.

    If the pits aren’t too deep, you can blast at a higher pressure to texture the surface and they’ll nearly disappear. If you do this, do be careful of the critical surfaces, don’t want to change the dimensions.

    I’ve done several with a heavy blast and sort of like the textured look. The gun won’t be original anyway so make it how you like it.

    jim

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    #5
    Quote Originally Posted by SkeeterXRi View Post
    If the pits are deep, I’d use JB weld as a filler after blasting, and then lightly blast again after filling to even the surface.

    If the pits aren’t too deep, you can blast at a higher pressure to texture the surface and they’ll nearly disappear. If you do this, do be careful of the critical surfaces, don’t want to change the dimensions.

    I’ve done several with a heavy blast and sort of like the textured look. The gun won’t be original anyway so make it how you like it.

    jim

    Im of the same thinking. Im gonna get it as good as I can and then coat flat black. I thought about the JB weld as well but ive always had issues filling pin holes with anything other than a liquid. This is back from my bodywork days so might be different on something like this.

    For some of the pits I think im gonna fire of the tig and see what a quick little blip will get me then file smooth. After blasting you shouldnt know a difference. Or we hope.

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    #6
    Welding is a proper way of doing it as long as you know how to manage heat so you do not modify the properties of the metal or ruin any heat treating that was done.

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    #7
    Quote Originally Posted by Transom View Post
    Welding is a proper way of doing it as long as you know how to manage heat so you do not modify the properties of the metal or ruin any heat treating that was done.
    It would just be hitting it with super short blips. And its nothing anywhere near the barell or anything that could compromise it. After a bit of thought though I am going to play a bit with JbWeld. Being the locations arent structural if I can get it to stick and not hold air I dont see it being an issue as it will be Cerakoted.

    Time will tell.

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    #8
    I see cerakoting so probably not an issue, just be aware that on older guns polishing before a finish is normally done with a file and then grit paper on a flat backer to keep flat surfaces flat, straight lines straight, and lettering crisp. Folks who are into older guns do a 180 and walk away at first sight of dished-out lettering, joints that no longer fit flush, buggered screws, etc. If you care, its worth reading up on that stuff. If not, then in most cases it likely doesnt matter except visually.

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    #9
    Quote Originally Posted by MacIntosh View Post
    I see cerakoting so probably not an issue, just be aware that on older guns polishing before a finish is normally done with a file and then grit paper on a flat backer to keep flat surfaces flat, straight lines straight, and lettering crisp. Folks who are into older guns do a 180 and walk away at first sight of dished-out lettering, joints that no longer fit flush, buggered screws, etc. If you care, its worth reading up on that stuff. If not, then in most cases it likely doesnt matter except visually.
    I totally understand. Im using files etc to keep everything straight. Or as straight as possible. Ive done machine work as a side gig/ hobby for years so that stuff drives me nuts. This was already a basket case from a previous sorta restore. Figured I would take a shot at doing a better job as I would like to try some others if I can pick up stuff cheap. Its not super old or high dollar to begin with as I believe its a mid 70's 15-3.

    I would say a labor of love but more just labor HAHAHAHA. Something to learn on and keep in the safe. Bring it out on occasion to make loud noises .. Or take to a gun show and see what trade I could come up with.

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    #10
    Quote Originally Posted by Axkiker View Post
    Ran across a crusty rusty .38 special at a gun show. Picked it up as I have been looking at giving a refinish a go. It has some mild rust pitting that ill be getting after tomorrow by sand blasting. What all is able to be used for filling? I read about a product made by duracoat for filling. Just curious if its really anything special specific for firearms. I plan on cerakoting and cant see why a light filler on non contact areas would hurt.

    Thoughts.
    Do yourself a major favor if you haven't started this project yet and don't sandblast. Go the electrolysis route. It's much easier and much more efficient. A bucket, battery charger, washing soda and some scrap steel and you're good to go. Any pitting can be easily dealt with afterward without adding to the issues developed by blasting.

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    #11
    Quote Originally Posted by Old Syko View Post
    Do yourself a major favor if you haven't started this project yet and don't sandblast. Go the electrolysis route. It's much easier and much more efficient. A bucket, battery charger, washing soda and some scrap steel and you're good to go. Any pitting can be easily dealt with afterward without adding to the issues developed by blasting.
    Was already sandblasted my friend.

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    #12
    Anyone out there know the thread pitch of the top screw on a S&W that holds the rear sight spring on ?

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    #13
    Just thought I would throw this out there. In my redneck / Youtube experiments Stump killer + fire = a darn good bluing mix.

    Carry on .

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    #14
    Quote Originally Posted by Axkiker View Post
    Anyone out there know the thread pitch of the top screw on a S&W that holds the rear sight spring on ?
    If anyone were in need for the future its 3-56. Talk about making your butt pucker tapping that lol.

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    #15
    Well the process continues as its Cerakote day. Had a smoker I had not used yet as I bought it busted off Ebay and was going to straighten it out and use. Well being its so jacked up its now my cerakote oven. Should work really well as its all digital, insulated, and the temps it will achieve are perfect.