Evinrude G2 250 serial number 05560953 model E250HGLOAJ
Not strictly an engine issue but I had my Triton prerigged for the G2 at the factory and the dealer installed the motor. I cannot get a fuel reading from the dash gauges or the Icon gauge. Something is not plugged into the harness somewhere and my dealer cannot find it. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks, Rick
The fuel tank senders on my boat plug into the CSM remote control. Pink and black wires from main and aux tanks. That's the only connection that I know of.
It is possible that the connections are ok but that the tanks weren't calibrated or setup in EVDiag.
1994 201 Champ re-powered with a 250 HO G2 E250LHAFA 05438419
The fuel sending wires pink and black need a fuel level converter. Also called an analog to digital converter. This converter can be built into the remote control depending on the version you have or the converter can be a separate device.
please describe the color of your shift handle - chrome, black or silver. If chrome there will be two sets of tank wires labeled tank 1 or Fuel 1 and tank 2 or fuel 2 - something like that. Meaning two fuel tanks are supported.
If black or silver you may need the separate converter. The part number is 768916, converter instance 4. Instance 4 is important on a G2. The G2 gauges are design intent to read I4.
Bighare2, thank you, I just got it out of storage and will check the shifter tomorrow.
I do have the chrome handle. I will have the dealer look at it next week. Thank you for your help.
Rick
Good to know. The control wire harness as mentioned will have 2 set of pink and black wires, each in a separate bundle. One of those leads includes a factory installed 2 pin connector. Deutsch brand. Look to the main tank sending unit pink and black wire connect directly to this connector. Make sure the sending unit ground goes directly to this connector with no shortcuts to a community ground that may be closer to the tank. This will result in inconsistent / inaccurate readings.
Fuel level can display without any additional programming or calibrating. Caveat - you mentioned ICON gauge. You may have to pull up the fuel tank level program, to make sure that Instance 4 fuel level is on display.
If connected to the No connector tank two wires, aka instance 5, then no reading will occur.
#13 are the connections for two fuel tanks
Last edited by 86 inches; 04-28-2023 at 09:54 AM.
1994 201 Champ re-powered with a 250 HO G2 E250LHAFA 05438419
I'm having a similar issue, Last summer i noticed the fuel never coming off full. I pulled the sender and checked its resistance along the full to empty range and its right where it should be 240ish-33ish . I have pulled the sender and wired direct under the dash to eliminate wire issues and still no change. I even got a new sender to try and same results. After messing with it for hours it seems the calibration is only taking the last value i program and always thinks that is the level no matter where the sender is. The level is reading off tank 2 which is the way the boat came rigged for some reason but could I have lost some other sort of programing in the controls that is causing this or is the control having an issue?
If I bought the EVDiag-6 would I be able to see the values the controller is seeing for resistance at each of the calibrated points? Or even see a live number as I adjust the sender float?
Thank You
If somebody calibrated the sender with fuel already in the tank then the gauge will calibrate all fuel level points to the same value.
tanks one should be fuel, instance 4. Tank two should set as fuel, instance 5.
No - EV diag will not see the sender resistance values nor any live value.
setting calibration points requires at least 10-20 seconds of waiting time between each set point. This allows the calibration setting to take hold.
what you can do is pull the sender and perform a 2 point calibration. What display are you performing the calibration? Be sure to clear all existing cal point first.
Calibration is not required for fuel level to display. Fuel level will display bit be only as accurate as the sender is. Calibration improves accuracy especially athe the 1/4, 1/2, and 3/4 display points.
Thanks for the response, I had the sender out of the tank, and tried calibrating 2,3,5 points trying to make it work with no success. I waited 20+ seconds before and after each calibration point. I found it weird that if I cal. Full, then 1/2 and Empty last when I said NO i didn't want to calibrate another position after empty it goes right back to the screen where you can pick a level to calibrate and didn't do the little loading wheel like I did after I push calibrate the first two positions and Yes I want to do another one when its done.
What's really confused me is the control wiring diagram shows both signal and ground going to the wires to the controller. The boat was originally wired where the signal wire from the sender came to the helm, the ground is grounded somewhere else. (I checked contentuty between the sender ground and battery ground it was good) Under the helm the controler lead for signal got the signal wire but the controler ground lead was grounded to a common ground under the helm. WHICH IS CORRECT?
When you say be sure to clear all cal. points first I'm not sure how to do that. Sometimes it would ask if I wanted to do all or single calibration points but Never did I see anywhere to clear the existing points. I'm doing this on a Icon 7"
Another thing I did notice is the software version is not the most recent one its like .18 and I think there is a .19 version. Doubt this is a factor though.
Thanks for the time!
The diagram is correct. A community ground creates a ground path which is very ‘indirect’ for proper sensor operation. The ground path from the sender to the converter must not be shared.
See this link to the user guide for the 7.0 display. https://www.operatorsguides.brp.com/...p?folderId=535
page 23
what tank number connection on the control head is the sender connected to?
You are using the control head calibration process - correct?
are you seeing each of the red dots in the display change to green after the specific calibration process is complete?
Pressing the recalibrate button will essentially zero out the calibration. Calibration settings are held within the remote control - not the display.
Calibration is not required for fuel level to display. Also note for your memory bank that a fuel level display is highly dampened due to fuel sloshing around.
what tank number connection on the control head is the sender connected to? #2
You are using the control head calibration process - correct?- Yes Im doing exactly what it says to do on page 25 of the linked document
are you seeing each of the red dots in the display change to green after the specific calibration process is complete? I can double check but yes I remember seeing them light up from just being gray, but unsure if it was green or red Ill confirm
Pressing the recalibrate button will essentially zero out the calibration. Calibration settings are held within the remote control - not the display.
Calibration is not required for fuel level to display. Also note for your memory bank that a fuel level display is highly dampened due to fuel sloshing around. Got it this is the reason for the 20s delay between cal. points
I will retry again with the direct ground for the sensor and control grounds.
see my comments next to yours.Originally Posted by NickThomas521
Logically yes it should be tank 1 but that's not the way it was originally set up for some reason. the sender is wired to tank 2 leads so I don't see any issue with it being set up as tank 2, do you ?
Tank one is preset as fuel instance 4. Tank two is preset for oil instance one.
so yes there is confusion.
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