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  1. #1
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    Active target cone direction, and another question.

    I found an old thread but couldn't figure out what I need to do, or if it can be done.
    Active Target (1). HDS Carbon, HDS live. I also have a point 1 that I "think" is set up right. The AT transducer is on a pole, not on the trolling motor. (Motorguide Tour Pro, also on NMEA network. The trolling motor works correctly and can be controlled from either graph. I think something isn't right with the COG. I believe it's determining the COG by boat movement. The COG should be determined by the Point 1 shouldn't it? I suspect there's a problem with a setting somewhere.

    Other question. Can I set up a hot key (I think that's what it's called) to stop sonar on my AT with on my front graph? (HDS carbon)

    Thanks in advance.

  2. Member
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    #2
    COG and Heading are two different things. COG is determined by the GPS and relies on movement. Heading is determined by an electronic compass and tells you the direction the bow is facing regardless of the direction of travel. For the cone direction indicator to function correctly there must be a heading sensor AND the transducer itself must not be affected by magnetic fields such as those found in brushed trolling motors. To set the Point 1 as your heading sensor, go to pages, settings, network, data sources. Open the Vessel tab and be sure Point 1 is selected for heading.
    You cannot set a Hot Key to stop the AT sonar.
    NoCAL
    2004TR-21X/2015 250 ProXS
    2B112175

  3. Member
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    #3
    Thanks, I don't think I have my point 1 calibrated correctly either. I disconnected it, re connected it the drove the boat in 3 circles. I found a video outlining the procedure for calibrating in with the graph. My trolling motor is a Motorguide. Once I get the cone direction working correctly without the motor running I'll see what happens. My transducer is on a powered pole ~8 inches away from the motor, and probably 7 inches above.

    Lowrance says to stop sonar when you lift the transducer. That's what I've been doing. A hot key would have been nice. I couldn't see a way to do it, but figured if there was someone would know.

  4. Member
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    #4
    Have to go through the menus to Stop Sonar. Would have been nice if they at least put it on the first menu!
    2004TR-21X/2015 250 ProXS
    2B112175

  5. Member
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    Mar 2008
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    Brentwood, TN
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    #5
    Quote Originally Posted by NoCAL View Post
    Have to go through the menus to Stop Sonar. Would have been nice if they at least put it on the first menu!
    Totally agree. Wish they would do that with all the sonar types, down, structure, 2D, AT. Hey Lowrance, please make this change and while you're at it let me use a smart key to stop/ start for any and all sonars.

  6. Member
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    #6
    I can't get my Point 1 to calibrate. It keeps timing out. I thought the wind and waves rocking the boat was causing that so I went way up a no wake cove. I stayed within the recommend 2 to 3 degrees per second (or something like that) for the entire time, but it timed out every time. I tried with the big motor and trolling motor. I'll find my old compass and see if it's got something messing with it. My point 1 is Part #: 000-11047-002. Even if it's not what I need for the directional cone it should calibrate.

  7. Member
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    #7
    Even without calibrating it should work ok. Unless you live way north of Canada. It’s the same thing you have to do in your truck to calibrate the compass if the battery goes dead. Only need to do it once unless you move significantly out of the plus or minus longitude where it was originally calibrated. Timing out is usually related to some type of magnetic interference.

    NoCAL
    2004TR-21X/2015 250 ProXS
    2B112175

  8. Member
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    #8
    Never ever have had to calibrate my point 1, I’d say you have some interference. Did you use the screws that it came with?

  9. Member
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    #9
    I moved it, and it's working It also calibrated on the first try. Yes I used the screws that came with it. I had it mounted right next to the gunwale where most of my wiring is. I moved it to the other side.

    The cone direction indicator works. It dithers a slight amount when if I have the trolling motor above 6. I rarely have it above 4 though. I was just trying stuff. 6 is 3mph with my motor and boat. The only problem, for some reason every time I stop sonar, and stow the trolling motor the heading sensor source changes to my trolling motor. I don't know what's going on there.

  10. Member
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    #10
    Make the Scope of your heading sensor Local. Pages, Settings, Network, Data Sources, GPS, Vessel. Tap the triangle on the right and set the Point 1 to Local

    NoCAL
    2004TR-21X/2015 250 ProXS
    2B112175

  11. Member
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    #11
    You might need to change the instance ID of your point 1 to "001" in the point 1 configuration menu. That should prevent your displays from toggling back and forth with your point 1 and the heading sensor in your Tour Pro.

  12. Member
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    #12
    The issue with multiple heading sensors was fixed by Lowrance in a software update like 8 years ago.

    NoCAL
    2004TR-21X/2015 250 ProXS
    2B112175

  13. Member
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    Jun 2021
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    Bluefield WV
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    #13
    It was an issue on my elite fs 9 units I ran last year. The Tour Pro heading sensor activates when the trolling motor is deployed and goes in sleep mode when it is stowed. So my units would toggle between my point one and the Tour Pro as the data source until I changed the instance of my point 1 to "001". It might have more to do with the Tour Pro side of things than lowrance.

    If he sets the heading sensor to local, he may lose autopilot functionality for the Tour pro in terms of the nav functions that can be performed from the display. Not sure about that though.
    Last edited by Kdixer; 05-01-2023 at 04:54 AM.

  14. Member
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    #14
    Thanks everyone. I all of you a cup of coffee of glass of tea.

  15. Member
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    #15
    I just wanted to update this thread in case someone is having similar problems and finds this via a search.

    After moving my Point 1 it calibrated on the first try. My cone direction worked correctly "most" of the time. I changed the name, and settings mentioned but it still would stop working occasionally. I just turned it off most of the time, but finally decided to see what was happening. When the cone direction would go crazy my Point 1 showed as "invalid" when I looked at the data sources screen. I found that this means the Point 1 is missing from the network. The Point 1 is on a long cable that runs from my console to the back of the boat, across the stern then back up to where I have it mounted. There's a little bit of the cable coiled and hidden. The power for my NEMA network is in the center of the network at my console. I added a "T" and another power supply at the end of the cable feeding the Point 1. It's worked great for 3 trips now. I suppose the combination of the power hungry Point1 and the long cable were causing the problems.

  16. Member
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    #16
    YOU HAVE TWO POWER SOURCES ON YOUR NMEA NETWORK? That is a BIG no no! NMEA networks are good for over 200’ and only need one power node. You will be getting differential voltage flow to each device on the network. I would get that second one out ASAP. I’m actually not sure what the implications are but it is not required nor recommended.

    NoCAL
    2004TR-21X/2015 250 ProXS
    2B112175

  17. Member
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    #17
    Nmea is definitely not power hungry, mine doesn’t even register on my lithium app, so it’s less than 1 amp.

  18. Member
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    #18
    When a Point 1 times out its either one of 2 issues, One the point 1 is toast or you have too much magnetic noise that keeps it from calibrating. Have you tested for Mag Noise in the area by the POint 1 best done on the water with everything turned on. By the way mostly if you have 2 power nodes the first one probably not working anyway. If you want to get to the bottom of your issue. Disconnect the 2nd one from power, Turn on all NMEA devices and go to Device lIst and see if the Point 1 shows up if it does not then that is because of a power issue NOT powering the NMEA network. A power Node show always be in the center of the Network for balanced power to the entire network. An NMEA device should be connected to the middle of the Tee on a 2ft drop cable.

  19. Member
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    #19
    Quote Originally Posted by Bass in the grass View Post
    Nmea is definitely not power hungry, mine doesn’t even register on my lithium app, so it’s less than 1 amp.
    Yeah, I have 11 devices on my network and combined they pull less than 1 amp.

  20. Member
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    #20
    What BH said. I see so many issues with NMEA on others boats. Then come to find out they don’t have a proper network. Like droppers coming off the bottom of Ts, no terminators, all Ts together and using long extensions to reach the rest of the boat. NMEA works perfect when set up in the maritime industry standard. When not, there can be issues.

    NoCAL
    2004TR-21X/2015 250 ProXS
    2B112175

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