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  1. #1
    Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
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    Phyllis, Kentucky
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    131

    Fuel Tank Selector Issue

    I have a Ranger Z522 with two fuel tanks. The fuel tank selector (about 4” in diameter) that has worked flawlessly for years now won’t switch to tank #2. I can move the selector to where it says fuel tank 2 but it doesn’t feel like it is engaging properly with a distinct “click” like it had been doing. I have tried to rotate it around to the off position (mine has two off positions) and it just doesn’t feel like it used to. I haven’t had an opportunity to check it out yet but plan on soon. Does the fuel tank selector operate a cable that controls a valve or something that controls which tank is being used? Both my gas tanks are under the seat so I’m guessing I’ll need to take the seat out in order to check out the cable/controller. I’m thinking that maybe the cable has came unattached or has just stretched. Anyone had a similar issue?
    Thanks in advance for any help and advice.

  2. Member
    Join Date
    May 2021
    Location
    Harwich, Ma
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    495
    #2
    No cable, its a shaft inside a valve. I just replaced mine a few months back, less than $100. Good time to replace your fuel lines too. Buy a 25' roll

  3. Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Location
    Phyllis, Kentucky
    Posts
    131
    #3
    Thanks sushi. If it makes any difference my selector valve is not under the seat like it was on my 488 but between the driver seat and gunnel in the vinyl trim piece.

  4. Member
    Join Date
    May 2021
    Location
    Harwich, Ma
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    495
    #4
    Quote Originally Posted by Rangerman522 View Post
    Thanks sushi. If it makes any difference my selector valve is not under the seat like it was on my 488 but between the driver seat and gunnel in the vinyl trim piece.
    My 520 is in the same spot. You have to pull the seats to access the valve and cut the hoses off. At that point, the two hoses to the tanks are exposed which its a perfect time to replace them. Then, pull a new one back to the transom to the motor. Took me 30mins to do it all

  5. Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    Spring Hope,NC
    Posts
    7,254
    #5
    The handle is mounted to the valve shaft,no cables. The valve shaft has a flat side under the handle,it’s not round. The D shaped hole in your handle is stripped out so it’s now a round hole. You need a new handle,no need to replace the valve, but you might have to buy a new valve to get a handle. There is a screw set down in handle,remove the screw and the handle will come up. Might take some lube and jiggling though. If you can’t find a handle,PM me your number,I might have a handle somewhere.

  6. Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Berea, KY
    Posts
    434
    #6
    Rip is Correct, new selector "knob" is probably all you need.

  7. Member
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    west caldwell
    Posts
    96
    #7

    Fuel Tank Selector Issue

    Hi Guys, I realize I'm late to this party but I have additional questions, since my fuel selector also tapped out last weekend. My 2004 520VX is 300 miles away at the Thousand Islands. I am capable of the repair and have the new valve. My questions are: Q-1, Why would the fuel lines need to be cut if they are threaded in? Q-2, Are the flare nut stems screwed in and then clamped to the fuel hoses? Q-3, Do you remember the flare nut wrench size needed? Q-4, Is pipe tape needed for the new connections? Any clarity you can provide is appreciated. Thanks, Jim
    RangerFuelSelectSwitch.jpg
    Last edited by ToyGuy; 06-05-2023 at 04:04 PM. Reason: wording

  8. Member paulrodbender's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Dartmouth, MA
    Posts
    3,515
    #8
    7BAC4905-E630-439D-8385-7572D7210C0D.jpeg

    Here’s a picture of the back of mine, hope this helps.

  9. Member
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    west caldwell
    Posts
    96
    #9
    Yes paulrodbender, that photo helps a lot. Thanks so much.

  10. Member paulrodbender's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Dartmouth, MA
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    3,515
    #10
    I went all new. I picked up the brass elbows (90's) and 3/8" bard ends from my local Ace Hardware. You may or may not need the 90's depending on your setup. Since you're going to have it apart and if they're from 2004, I would replace the 3/8" fuel lines (hose) running from the tanks to the valve and from the valve to outboard or whereever it's going to......