Ugh…after uninstalling older electronics, my master power switch is not working

[CatCanDoo]

2002 Pantera Classic, 2 weeks ago installed my 3rd Helix, which was a Helix 12 at the console and installed a new side imaging transducer on the transom and a shoot through hull transducer in the bilge. Took it out on the water after install and everything worked perfectly except bilge pump was not working so I figured I pulled the connection loose while installing the transducer. Got home and wanted to uninstall the Lowrance side scan Ethernet box power, Lowrance graph power cord, and pull out the side scan transducer. I first followed each of the 2 power cords to a Y intersection where the Lowrance power cords each joined the Master power connections in different locations. 2 power cords and each had one place where it joins the master power. I cut the power cords at each of their Y intersections with the Master Power making sure to cut the power cord before the intersection and not cutting it after it joins the main power. I then pulled the Side Imaging transducer cable out through the battery compartment but the plug on the console end got hung up just before coming out of the back so I had to cut it and leave part of the cord in the hull. I did try to get all of the cable out but it was stuck in a place that I couldn’t budge it for the remaining 2 feet so just cut it. After the un-install, I was going to work on the bilge pump and found that nothing lights up when the master power switch is flipped. It worked immediately before my install that I described above. I really want to fish soon as we all do so want to start the diagnosis in the most likely point of failure first and then work my way deeper. All 3 of the new units bypass the master power but I do need the original master power switch for live wells, bilge and lights to work. Thanks!

[CatFan]

You likely blew a fuse with bare wires moving around. Check under the motor cowling and in the fuse panel.

[CatCanDoo]

I have now checked all of the inline fuses that I could find, pushed the reset switches on the master power panel, and checked the merc fuses (after dropping the spare in the bottom of the cowling twice) and all seems good. I do agree that cutting the power wires and leaving a couple bare wires may have caused this. I pulled the master power switch and the wires are still connected so I didn't put a wire loose at the switch. I thought about replacing the master power switch but the switches I have are 2 and 6 prong vs 3 prong that came with the BassCat when I bought originally in 2002. I am not sure how to make a 2 or 6 prong work so I can order a 3 prong. I posted a pic of the buss bar and maybe one wire looks loose so can try that also. I also posted the master power switch and spare switches I have. Other thoughts?

[CatCanDoo]

Here is one more pic as one side got cut off in the last pic

[apdriver]

I don’t like the look of the bottom left positive red wire. Definitely closely inspect that. Looks like some strands have broken probably. I would also just gently tug on the rest one at a time to make sure everything is secure. If any movement repair/recrimp it or if you have broken strands from overcrimping or vibration through all those years of service.

[Bass Cat Boats]

An inexpensive voltmeter is your friend here and it will diagnose where your issue is. On an older boat it’s hard to comment on as we don’t know what’s occurred over time with different installations.

Going back 20 years ago, we started large in dash graphs in 2003 with the Cougar FTD model and graphs went GPS with Lcx 15 and then the Lcx 15c (c=color screen). That was followed by the Humminbird 997 Si and after that electronics upgrades became a flurry. Down Imaging came along and that eased into the market.

After GPS and Graphs, MinnKota Ultrex and Spot Lock Trolling Motors (2019) have totally change the aftermarket install landscape as everyone wants the newest and latest technology.

With the advent of Live Scope in 2020 model year, following PanOptix, the electronics game has totally changed in 4 or 5 short years. The race to the front had been feverish development of graphs, systems, mounts, motorized turrets and much more we haven’t seen yet.

It’s obvious we haven’t seen the end and product development and change will be here for some time.

[CatCanDoo]

I don’t like the look of the bottom left positive red wire. Definitely closely inspect that. Looks like some strands have broken probably. I would also just gently tug on the rest one at a time to make sure everything is secure. If any movement repair/recrimp it or if you have broken strands from overcrimping or vibration through all those years of service.

Yeah, I agree and will replace that one and check the others.

[CatCanDoo]

An inexpensive voltmeter is your friend here and it will diagnose where your issue is. On an older boat it’s hard to comment on as we don’t know what’s occurred over time with different installations.

Going back 20 years ago, we started large in dash graphs in 2003 with the Cougar FTD model and graphs went GPS with Lcx 15 and then the Lcx 15c (c=color screen). That was followed by the Humminbird 997 Si and after that electronics upgrades became a flurry. Down Imaging came along and that eased into the market.

After GPS and Graphs, MinnKota Ultrex and Spot Lock Trolling Motors (2019) have totally change the aftermarket install landscape as everyone wants the newest and latest technology.

With the advent of Live Scope in 2020 model year, following PanOptix, the electronics game has totally changed in 4 or 5 short years. The race to the front had been feverish development of graphs, systems, mounts, motorized turrets and much more we haven’t seen yet.

It’s obvious we haven’t seen the end and product development and change will be here for some time.

Understood about a lot happening over the years since the original install. Lots of wires have been in and out of the console since the original. I do know that I haven't touched the Master Power switch or buss bar since picking it up from the dealer in 2002 so should be as close to original as possible. The boat has been amazing with zero problems except ones that I have created like this one. My additions have always bypassed the Power Switch with new direct power wires. I do understand a little about the use of a voltmeter but can you be more specific as to what you would test? Continuity from master power to transom?, testing if power makes it to the MP switch etc...? I have a non contact voltage tester but it doesn't seem to be reading anything when I touch the wires to and from the MP switch.

[CatFan]

Understood about a lot happening over the years since the original install. Lots of wires have been in and out of the console since the original. I do know that I haven't touched the Master Power switch or buss bar since picking it up from the dealer in 2002 so should be as close to original as possible. The boat has been amazing with zero problems except ones that I have created like this one. My additions have always bypassed the Power Switch with new direct power wires. I do understand a little about the use of a voltmeter but can you be more specific as to what you would test? Continuity from master power to transom?, testing if power makes it to the MP switch etc...? I have a non contact voltage tester but it doesn't seem to be reading anything when I touch the wires to and from the MP switch.

Non-contact testers only work on AC.

[CatCanDoo]

Non-contact testers only work on AC.

that helps. Thanks

[WisconsinF]

I'm kind of a caveman when it comes to this type of thing but what I would do is run a long ground wire from the battery that is powering all these things that are not working and connect that to a 12 volt test light. Touch that 12 volt test light to the battery positive to make sure it works then start making sure power is getting to the switch(es)... keep going until you discover where you're NOT getting power to where it's suppose to be.

[CatCanDoo]

I'm kind of a caveman when it comes to this type of thing but what I would do is run a long ground wire from the battery that is powering all these things that are not working and connect that to a 12 volt test light. Touch that 12 volt test light to the battery positive to make sure it works then start making sure power is getting to the switch(es)... keep going until you discover where you're NOT getting power to where it's suppose to be.

I like the caveman approach and will try it.

[CatCanDoo]

I like the caveman approach and will try it.

After missing a beautiful weekend on the water, I did find the problem using the “caveman” technique. Obviously another wire on my bussbar needs tending to as well but followed the wire that wouldn’t ignite the test light at the console and found an inline fuse down between the gas tank and the battery in the back. Replaced the fuse and all lights and pumps back on. I learned a lot about finding the hot wire quickly for the future and added a few more spare inline fuses to my boats glove compartment for future use. I have now Re-acclimated myself to the location of every fuse from the console back. Thanks for the advice and direction from my basscat family.

[apdriver]

After missing a beautiful weekend on the water, I did find the problem using the “caveman” technique. Obviously another wire on my bussbar needs tending to as well but followed the wire that wouldn’t ignite the test light at the console and found an inline fuse down between the gas tank and the battery in the back. Replaced the fuse and all lights and pumps back on. I learned a lot about finding the hot wire quickly for the future and added a few more spare inline fuses to my boats glove compartment for future use. I have now Re-acclimated myself to the location of every fuse from the console back. Thanks for the advice and direction from my basscat family.

Cool, CatcanDoo. Glad you found it. Don’t miss another day this spring. The bite is on!

[CatCanDoo]

Cool, CatcanDoo. Glad you found it. Don’t miss another day this spring. The bite is on!