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  1. #1
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    Wet hardwood floor, what to do?

    My dishwasher sprang a small leak a couple weeks ago. The water soaked into the floor and was only noticed when the boards on the other side of the cabinets started to buckle. Now they are buckling in a semicircle about 2'-3' radius around the dishwasher.

    I fixed the leak and went under the house to pull away all of the wet insulation and let air get to the wood.

    From what I have read, the next thing to do is get a dehumidifier. I was thinking of renting a small industrial one.

    Question #1: Would I be better to put the dehumidifier in the kitchen or in the crawl space? The kitchen is in an open floor plan with probably 1,500 square feet that cannot be closed off and either vaulted or cathedral ceilings. The crawl space has plastic sheet on the dirt and numerous vents that I could close off. I could probably only get the dehumidifier within 20'-25' of the wet area due to height limitations.

    Question #2: Is there anything else I can due short of ripping out the floor?

  2. Member
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    #2
    Call your insurance company first. They will recommend a company like Servpro to come out and remove the buckled flooring and set up driers to suck the moisture out.
    Then get a few bids to replace the flooring and refinish all the flooring to match.

  3. Member
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    #3
    If not going the insurance route. A Carpet cleaning service will have equipment for drying things out.

  4. Member
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    #4
    Depending on the wood, it might return it's shape after it dries out. We had brazilian cherry and had the same thing happen. It buckled bad, but we were told to give it time and it would be fine. Sure enough, it took months, but you would have never known it happened.

  5. Member
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    #5
    I have had 2 leaks impact my floor in a couple of years. Used insurance on both and they paid a total of about $30k to restoration companies and $20k to fix the leaks and repair damage. My homeowners insurance doubled this year, $2600 annually to over $5400. I would like to know if the $30k to restoration companies had not been paid, what would my insurance costs look like.

    The restoration companies, though they did their job, really didn’t save money. It would have been better to tear things out instead of dry things out. My case may be unique, and I left a lot out of the story, obviously.
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    #6
    For what its worth MOST insurance went way up this year even without a claim. Been told was to cover inflation .
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  7. Member
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    #7
    Real wood? Yes it needs to be torn out until you reach dry underfloor. I was a builder warranty guy for years.

  8. Member
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    #8
    Seagoo, I have read the same thing regarding the "cupping" warping returning to normal after drying. Intuitively I can understand this and I have a moisture meter that will be used to check over time.


    Others, I don't want to go the insurance route. I did have to do this once but it was WAY worse. This is relatively minor.

    Any thoughts on where best to put the dehumidifier? In the house is a large volume. Under the house is a smaller volume but exposed to the soil ect.

  9. Member
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    #9
    Dehumidifier somewhere near the kichen. Moisture will naturally move from high to low so it's not critical to have the dehumidifier in the kitchen. Maybe add a fan to blow across the floor to help keep air moving and assist evaporation.

    I would buy the dehumidifier as this will take time (weeks/months) and a rental will burn up any savings. If you dont want to wait so long, pull up the flooring, dry subfloor (same way as above) and then install new flooring.

    We have a GE portable Air conditioner with dehumidifier mode that blows excess moisture out the window (no drain needed). Not the most efficient way but you dont need a monster machine, just something to draw moisture over time. Keep in mind the dehumidifier will draw moisture from everywhere. If the homes humidity is less than 55% a simple fan blowing across the floor may be all thats needed.

    If you place the dehumidifier in the crawlspace it would run non stop and get nowhere. Even with vents sealed and plastic on the floor the moisture will just come right through. If your crawlspace was encapsulated or 14+mil plastic with taped seams that would be different.

    Side benefit is you will now have a backup AC that stores easily incase the primary goes out. The 15,000btu and smaller units are more generator friendly if your in the area of VA that sees power outages/coastal storms.

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    #10
    Hardwoods, when floor dried, usually go back to pre existing condition. I'd hold off on calling a claim in as will be on your history. Got the dry out route first with a ServPro type of company and pay out of pocket if it works. If the dry out doesn't work call your insurance as a covered loss. What will occur is they will replace the area damaged and then sand stain and finish rest of floor layout to match. If pre stained flooring then usually all of it will need to come up.
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  11. Member
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    #11
    Thanks friogatto. I may go this route and put an AC / dehumidifier in the kitchen/breakfast area window and let it run. At least it won't be in the way and the window faces the rear yard. Thanks again for the idea.

    The buckling/cupping is rather mild so I am hesitant to rip it out if there's a chance it would shrink back. Plus, I will need to refinish the kitchen hardwood floor before we move again anyway, it is starting to show its age. It's a high probability that we will move again in about 5 years and I'd want to give the floor a refresh closer to that time.

  12. Member Hammmerhead's Avatar
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    #12
    Quote Originally Posted by Lanierspotman View Post
    I have had 2 leaks impact my floor in a couple of years. Used insurance on both and they paid a total of about $30k to restoration companies and $20k to fix the leaks and repair damage. My homeowners insurance doubled this year, $2600 annually to over $5400. I would like to know if the $30k to restoration companies had not been paid, what would my insurance costs look like.

    The restoration companies, though they did their job, really didn’t save money. It would have been better to tear things out instead of dry things out. My case may be unique, and I left a lot out of the story, obviously.

    Water and Theft claims are the worst to turn in as far as a future premium goes. Its best to check out that older water heater pan on occasion for a leak. Inspect a water feeder line to your fridge for swelling around the crimped fitting. The dishwasher can be checked by pulling the front kick plate off and inspecting the feeder line with a flash light as well. these arent things anyone wants to do often, but it can save you headaches and money in the future

  13. Member
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    #13
    Dry it and place a appliance basin under the dishwasher with a drain hose or piece of flex copper through the subfloor into the crawl space. Put a litter box in the crawl space to catch the water. It should only have water stains after 3 weeks and no rotting. Mold would be my concern on the subfloor. If its an L shaped corner with 2 walls remove the piece closest to the wall that runs the direction of the flooring. with that piece removed try to pry the floor an 1/8 inch to expose it to air via small fan etc.. If it extends past the face of the dishwasher cut it back with an oscillating tool to where the new joint will be covered after placing the washer in its original spot. After drying get a rubber mallet and set the floor back flat. A General brand moisture meter for wood costs 25 bucks on Amazon. Its accurate and will read when the moisture has been removed.

    I have replaced wood flooring in similar circumstances. Its one of the few spots you can get away with a best effort because its always covered. In my case I was removing the carpet and doing the floor in the room adjacent. I was able to get a near perfect match of prefinished wood for that area which ran parallel to the kitchen. I pieced in the water damaged wood and everything worked out.
    Last edited by mattmann7; 03-28-2023 at 04:51 PM.

  14. Member
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    #14
    Serv Pro uses fans underneath the crawl space to help dry out the wood and a dehumidifier.

  15. Member
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    #15
    Thanks for all of the ideas. I think I will also put some fans in the crawl space blowing up onto the subfloor.

    I thought about the pan with a drain line idea. I may just have to do that.

    I got lucky last fall and noticed the relief valve on the water heater leaking slowly. It had built up so much mineral deposit that it would never had opened properly if it were needed. I guess my luck ran out with the dishwasher.

    I'm hoping between the fans underneath and the window dehumidifier it will shrink back down. I have a moisture meter to monitor it with for what it's worth.

  16. Ft Gibson Lake America lakefolk's Avatar
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    #16
    if the floor is "buckling" I hate to say it but that floor is going to have to come up,, might as well do it now.... I've never seen a real wood floor that got that wet look worth a crap after drying..


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  17. Member vatreefarmer's Avatar
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    #17
    I had a Christmas tree stand leak water unbeknownst to us for a full month. Hardwood was cupped and uneven. It WILL dry out and return 90-95% back to normal, just be patient and do what you can to prevent any more moisture from the leak. In 3 months you will not even know it happened, although the polyurethane will feel uneven in your barefeet. At that point, sand lightly (urethane depth only) and add a top coat of brushed polyurethane to make it all smooth again. A small fan blowing over the floor is plenty, no need for a dehumidifier.
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  18. Member
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    #18
    Lakefolk, I suspect you are right. Ugh! I hate it because I truly envision having to redo the floors again in about five years when I go to sell. Since the grandkids moved to town I've seen a ten fold number of scratches and dents which is fine, it's a house not a museum, but still a bummer.

    Edit: Well, vatreefarmer gives me hope. Thanks.

  19. Member
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    #19
    For those have not yet had the experience or acknowledging that it could happen again, I would like to add prevention..
    https://www.moen.com/flo
    There are more than a few companies that make similar devices that address water leakage at about $500 they make sense.

  20. Member
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    #20
    Like a few others have said it might go back to normal. Had a similar issue and after a little while couldn't tell at all.
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