RT198 seats...

[King_Fish]

OK, how do I remove the seat bottom (the part you sit on) in my 198?

thanks...

[Mechanic Bob]

When I was painting my interior, I removed the backs and then it seemed that you cold slide the seat base backwards towards the stern to remove it.

Otherwise, just Man-up and rip the damn thing out!

[King_Fish]

When I was painting my interior, I removed the backs and then it seemed that you cold slide the seat base backwards towards the stern to remove it.

Otherwise, just Man-up and rip the damn thing out!

Oh, i'm good at ripping things out... But I prefer the surgical approach, since it's my baby.

Bob - whats the easiest way to run wiring from bilge to bow. Im running in to trouble around the throttle assy when coming from bilge. I've been told to remove the plate behind the throttle assy for easy access, but that seems like a bugger as well.

[javjoe]

Oh, i'm good at ripping things out... But I prefer the surgical approach, since it's my baby.

Bob - whats the easiest way to run wiring from bilge to bow. Im running in to trouble around the throttle assy when coming from bilge. I've been told to remove the plate behind the throttle assy for easy access, but that seems like a bugger as well.

When running wire I've learned a good stiff fish tape makes things a lot easier. I use the wire from an old shift cable, works great!
When I did mine I got it to the console fairly easy, getting my hands on it at that point took some patience but after some cussing but I managed.

[King_Fish]

When running wire I've learned a good stiff fish tape makes things a lot easier. I use the wire from an old shift cable, works great!
When I did mine I got it to the console fairly easy, getting my hands on it at that point took some patience but after some cussing but I managed.

Thx, I'm good at cussing too, and drinking beer.

[Mechanic Bob]

Oh, i'm good at ripping things out... But I prefer the surgical approach, since it's my baby.

Bob - whats the easiest way to run wiring from bilge to bow. Im running in to trouble around the throttle assy when coming from bilge. I've been told to remove the plate behind the throttle assy for easy access, but that seems like a bugger as well.

10-4 on removing the side panel to run the wiring from the transom to the helm area, then from the helm to the bow.

[King_Fish]

10-4 on removing the side panel to run the wiring from the transom to the helm area, then from the helm to the bow.

Roger That...

[Mechanic Bob]

So what was the result of your investigation? Were you able to remove the set base?
I removed that back screw and did not replace afterwards. Glad I did not replace it as I have remove the side panel at least three more time since the initial removal.

[King_Fish]

So what was the result of your investigation? Were you able to remove the set base?
I removed that back screw and did not replace afterwards. Glad I did not replace it as I have remove the side panel at least three more time since the initial removal.

I dropped the fuse panel, removed the Driver's cup holder and detached the throttle control unit, that has allowed me enough hand room to run my snake from fuse panel to bow, and from bilge to fuse panel. Actual wire run will be next weekend, after it arrives. I've installed a 6 circuit fuse panel and little coupler in the STBD locker for my pwr distribution. I left enough room for a 12V 30Ah lithium if [I] ever want to just use dedicated power, and enough room for the Livescope, next year when i install it...

[Mechanic Bob]

I ran 10ga wiring from the stern to the bow to power my Livescope. I install the 12V 30ah Lithium to power the live scope. Had just enough room in the stern to install a battery box to house the Lithium. I added an Off/On lighted switch to the cover of the battery box. As when I am prepping for launch or tying down, I access the stern to turn on or off the Trolling motor batteries, Livescope battery, and the main power switch. No more room in the stern of my rig!

[King_Fish]

I ran 10ga wiring from the stern to the bow to power my Livescope. I install the 12V 30ah Lithium to power the live scope. Had just enough room in the stern to install a battery box to house the Lithium. I added an Off/On lighted switch to the cover of the battery box. As when I am prepping for launch or tying down, I access the stern to turn on or off the Trolling motor batteries, Livescope battery, and the main power switch. No more room in the stern of my rig!

Gotcha....

I'm on the fence right now between just installing a 12V Lithium or powering from the cranking batt..... I have asked several very knowledgeable folks on BBC about their config and at the moment, it's a toss-up... 6 of this, one half-dozen the other, II0 binary...

you prefer the dedicated power, correct? I'm considering the AMPedOutdoors product, but i'm open for suggestions

[Tim Kelly]

If you're going to put a separate battery in, there's a good argument for going with one of the 16 or 18v ones. They seem to give a better picture with livescope.

[Mechanic Bob]

Gotcha....

I'm on the fence right now between just installing a 12V Lithium or powering from the cranking batt..... I have asked several very knowledgeable folks on BBC about their config and at the moment, it's a toss-up... 6 of this, one half-dozen the other, II0 binary...
you prefer the dedicated power, correct? I'm considering the AMPedOutdoors product, but i'm open for suggestions

That is what I use. I have been very happy with the Live Scope running on the Lithium Battery.
I have all my Chargers mounted on my Shed Wall. Three Bank Charger, Single Charger, and the Lithium Charger. I followed Mikexpress suggestion and use a 9-pin connector for the standard batteries and then taped to the cord, I have two wire from the Lithium charger to the Lithium Battery. CLEAR AS MUD? I mounted my Lithium charger in/under a clear plastic box, as they are NOT weather proof.
When I get home from a day of fishing, I plug in my main cord with the 9-pin connection and a two wire connector to the Lithium battery. Then just plug in the Battery Chargers to the 120V outlet.
I do not have room in my stern for any chargers. (Being I have the 3 trolling motor batteries, cranking battery, Lithium battery, square tool bucket, and spare prop.)
I can send pictures if you want of any of my REDNECK Connections.

[King_Fish]

Thanks MB, I'll let you know...

[King_Fish]

If you're going to put a separate battery in, there's a good argument for going with one of the 16 or 18v ones. They seem to give a better picture with livescope.

Thanks Mr. Kelly, I hope you are well... Pip-Pip, Cheerio

[Tim Kelly]

Y'all have a nice day.

[Johnnyred]

Y'all have a nice day.

Hahaha

[King_Fish]

Y'all have a nice day.

Y'all come back now 'ya he-ah...