Engine will not slow enough to shift into neutral.

[Axhammer]

I’ve had this 1998 Ranger R-91I with a Mercury 200 EFI about five or six years. The engine has always run well. I have done some minor maintenance like plugs, thermostats, impeller, and a low oil sensor replacement. My engine throttle and shift functions have always worked normal until today.

I was on plane slowing as I approached the dock area. When I pulled back to where the engine should have idled, I could feel resistance, the throttle wouldn’t pull back anymore, and the idle was way too fast to shift into neutral. I could not slow down, I had to turn off the engine to stop the boat.

The throttle lever just didn’t feel right. After I turned the engine off, and cycled the throttle lever through the neutral lock-out, pushing it full forward, and full reverse (locked in neutral). After I did this, the throttle worked and felt normal.

I took it for another quick lap up the creek on plane, and when I tried to slow again, it did the same thing. I shut it off, and cycled the throttle lever, full forward and full reverse again (locked in neutral) and it started working normal, so I loaded it on the trailer…and drug my junk home wondering what the heck is going on.

It feels like it’s is between being locked into the neutral lock out function, and the normal function…I hope this makes sense. It has always worked fine, but now it’s acting funky just out of the blue.

[JOE54]

inspect all linkages on engine disconnect throttle cable and shift cable check control box for operation also

[Axhammer]

Joe,

Thanks for the reply, your info is always accurate, helpful and timely.

It sounds like something is disconnected or partially connected/disconnected, or loose. This is the way I read your reply.

There are two ends of these cables to check. The ends that terminate at the engine, and the ends that terminate at the throttle lever. (The Quicksilver 3000 Classic throttle is installed on my boat)

On the engine, the cover lifts off easily to see & check the cable ends and attachments.

The cables that terminate at the throttle is the part I don’t see or understand how it attaches, or works (it’s a blind situation)

My throttle lever assembly is on the side of the boat adjacent to the drivers position. There are no screws to remove to pull it away from the side of the boat to see the cable attachments. There must be a cover that comes off to access the attachment hardware, but I am not seeing or understanding it. Is it possible the attaching hardware for the throttle come in from the inside, and that’s why I don’t see the attaching screws?

There is a removable panel with a foot rest location for the drivers right foot while driving, it is about a foot forward and slightly lower than the throttle position. Removing this panel may allow me to see what’s going on behind the interior wall of the boat. Maybe I can remove this panel, and tighten up something that has loosened over the years.

I will be researching how to remove/install the Quicksilver 3000 Classic throttle lever on my boat, looking for my problem.

Again, my boat has never has any issues with the throttle or shifting in and out of neutral, this problem came out of nowhere that I can recall.

The first time it did it, and I was able to turn the engine off, and I pushed the button to place my throttle into the “neutral lockout” mode of function, and I cycled the throttle, it seemed like I fixed it, after I took it out of the “neutral lockout” mode. At this point it seemed to work as it should, until I put it in FWD and ran up the creek for a test, and it did it again when I tried to throttle back and put it in neutral. The throttle and shifting functions are separate but they get combined in the Neutral Lockout mode. Mine seems to NOT be separating these two functions, when I take it out of the neutral lockout mode.

Thanks again Joe!

[Axhammer]

I found some YouTube videos that show how this works. I’ll post back later today with my results.



Thanks again Joe!

[JOE54]

make sure engine is not problem before trying to repair that control box first

[Axhammer]

I did what was done in that YouTube video above. I removed the button, nut, lever and the cover plate that hides the attachment screws. Mine were a little loose, so I tightened them up. Now my remote control for the engine is firmly mounted to the side of the boat like it should be.

There is a plastic bushing the lever rides in, it slides onto the shaft, before sliding the lever on. I cleaned everything up, and put a light coat on WD-40 on the bushing, and put it all back together. The lever moves freely until it has to engage the shift function. As soon as the lever has to do some work, it seems like the cables are sticking, causing too much resistance.

My cables are really stiff. I believe they are the original cables. I am going to try to lube the cables.

If I can’t get the cables sliding smoothly & freely by cleaning them, I’m thinking the best thing to do is replace both the throttle & shift cables.

As far as the cable adjustments where they attach to the engine, the shift cable moves very close to the same exact distance whether it is shifted into Forward or Reverse, so I suspect the cables are rigged correctly.

I haven’t found any directions for replacing the cables. I found one thread talking about disconnecting the cables from the engine first. This will allow the throttle box to be removed and slid forward to the access hole. I guess this gives you enough room to disconnect the cables from the box.

Anyway…I’m still trying to fix my problem.

Ill keep everyone posted on my progress and results.

In the event I do replace the cables, where is a good place to get replacement cables?

Im pretty sure I can call Ranger Parts department and order cables…unless that department has been shut down, since BPS acquired the Ranger line.

Again, thanks for the help!

[EuropeanAM]

PLEASE, PLEASE don't get your technical advise on the 'tube! Many, many of those videos are riddled with costly errors.

In your case, your problem may very well be something on the engine itself. A linkage, a hose, even a bleed line that's getting sucked into a throttle shutter. Need to do some careful inspection on the engine FIRST.

[Axhammer]

I have a manual for this engine. It does not cover installation of the remote control for the engine. My manual says to refer to the remote control installation instructions for installing the remote control and cables. I don’t have the Quicksilver Installation Instructions. Maybe I will search online for the instructions.

This engine starts and runs excellent, it is very clean. It was professionally maintained before I bought it about five years ago. The power head was overhauled by Burns Outboard Service in Rincon GA, also, before I bought it. It’s in very nice condition for being 25 years old.

I have replaced the water pump impeller, spark plugs, fuel pump kit, thermostats and the Oil Module (twice).

With the access panel (just forward of the remote control) removed, I can stick my arm in and touch the front part of the throttle box, but that’s about it. I am assuming the cables attach to the rear of the box, but I can’t even get my hand or fingers in there that far to feel the cables.

Can someone tell me how to access the cables where they attach to the remote control?

[JOE54]

yes i can , disconnect cables from engine , pull handle and cover from outside remove 3 1/4 in bolts from plate that hold control box module to mount plate control module will be loose youll have to slide it forward to acess cables inside control box module remove plastic cover on back and youll see them there, tips .... tie string on old cables to pull new ones into gunnel ,,,,,,, purchase MERURY PLATINUM PLUS CABLES they are slick as snot youill thank me later good luck

[Axhammer]

Thank you for that (hard to find) info. It sounds like it’s a tough or tight access job, but it can be done.

With my handle & cover removed there are three screws that attaches to the boat. These are the ones I tightened last week. There are three bolts (in addition to the three screws) that apparently attach the remote to the cable control box. I hope these three bolts thread into threaded inserts, vice nuts. I’m not sure if I can get my hand back there to reinstall the nuts later. I guess I’ll find out one way or the other.

I was planning on disconnecting the cables at the engine, to see how everything feels without the cables disconnected. Then I can verify the rigging of the shift cable pin, in relation to the N mark, as per the manual. I don’t know if this will get me anything, but it’s a start. I will hopefully be able to remove the cables to measure length before ordering new cables.

Thanks again to everyone helping!

[JOE54]

cable should be mark with length , bolts thread into bosses on c box , leave handle in N when removeing module , mark each cable throttle and shift adjust ends after cable are installed compared to the ones you remove and do not move any linkage on engine so they slip right back on pins on engine , good luck JOE

[EuropeanAM]

There is a "Remote Controls" manual that can be purchased (and someone MIGHT have the old install instructions, though those controls are long since obsolete).

Definitely take a close look between the fuel management box (intake) and the block to make sure there are no loose, or "long" bleed or balance hoses there. Same for around the throttle linkages. This happens far more often than control failures... and usually presents after a hard run (and coming off the throttle) as a hose is "sucked" into the high-volume air stream and pinched in the butterfly.

[Axhammer]

My latest update on the malfunctioning throttle/shift functions on my 1998 Ranger R-91I.

I disconnected the shift cable & throttle cable at the engine.

I disconnected and slid the remote control box forward to the access opening, and disconnected the cables.

I used low pressure air to force several ounces of Marvel Mystery oil through each cable. A little nasty gunky looking fluid came out of each cable at first, before eventually the oil coming out turned red, and was not dirty looking, so I think the cables are cleaner now. The cables feel smooth and slid easily, when testing them while still disconnected at both ends after cleaning them.

I reconnected & installed the Quicksilver 3000 Remote Control, and pulled the cables back towards the engine. With the cables laying approximately where the are normally, but still disconnected I was able to operate the throttle & shifter, while watching the cable ends move in and out like they should.

Next, I reconnected the cables at the engine as per my maintenance manual. Everything looks and seems fine here, where the two cables attach to the engine.

The remote control feels really smooth and easy to use now, when checking it sitting on the trailer. I tested the neutral lockout safety function, and normal throttle functions and everything feels smooth and working like it should.

I took the boat for a test run, and it worked and felt really good when I began the test run. After warmup, and idling out, I was running at WOT in the creek hitting 65 MPH quickly, and felt good. When I eventually slowed and wanted to idle into the ramp area, the throttle lever felt stiff and stopped moving enough to slow dow, and shift into neutral. I had to turn the engine off to stop the boat.

It did the same exact thing as before.

I plan to pull the R/C box back out, and put it on the work bench and look for the problem as I operate it.

I suspect the box is malfunctioning based on the way it feels, when the throttle lever jams, trying to slow down and shift into neutral.

[lpugh]

I would replace the control box and cables with gen II units.

[EuropeanAM]

REPLACE the control with a Gen-2 and Gen-2 cables. This type of problem is a safety hazard, and anything less is (respectfully) taking the life and safety of anyone remotely within the path of your boat into jeopardy.

It's simply UNSAFE to operate.

[Axhammer]

I pulled the engine remote control and both cables out of the boat so I can replace them.

I took the RC box to Budget Boats in Chesapeake, my local boat store. They have tons of old used stuff and fair prices with a 30 year day warranty on used parts. After looking around at whet they had I picked a box, and I said I would try it… until they said they wanted $175 for a used box W/cables. I said I didn’t want cables, so he found another used box in another pile, and he said he wanted $120 for it. It had cables, and when the lever was moved, only one cable end moved, so it had something going on. I offered $100 for it, but he wouldn’t let me take the cover off the back to inspect it. That kinda rubbed me wrong, and I let him know I thought it was a bad deal for my end.

I told them I was going to go home and buy a new box and cables off the internet…and that’s what I am going to do.

Both cables are stamped “CC17912 TELEFLEX USA 7272”. I guess that’s a 12’ cable with that PN.

I called 864 421-0404 to order new parts but they didn’t answer, so they must be closed Saturday.

Ill try again on Monday.

[EuropeanAM]

Definitely not open on Saturday. In this case, you'll need to email the parts department the cable info (12') as well as a picture of the control faceplate so that they can see exactly which model you're replacing (completely different faceplate now, but let's try to cover the holes involved).

[Tommyfocker13]

As a diesel tech with lots of electrical experience, it sounds like an internally broken wire. Don't peel back the insulation but rather pull on the wire fairly hard, if it breaks it needs fixed. If it is broke , the insulation is what is keeping it together but when pulling it, it will break if it is broken. Hope this helps.

[Axhammer]

I replaced the throttle remote control with a Mercury Gen-II unit, and two Mercury Gen-II Platinum cables.

Everything seemed to go well as I assembled everything, the new control box with new cables felt smooth or good, nothing was out of the ordinary as I put it back together. I took the boat for a test run, and it is doing the same exact thing.

If you read the first post of this thread, I described what it is doing.

On the way out of the boat ramp area, as I eased into the throttle it felt a little stiffer than normal.

As I came on plane, trimming for cruise, the throttle it felt stiffer than before, but not what I would consider too stiff, it just felt a little different.

After cruising a little, I eased back the throttle lever and the boat slowed, however; as you slow the boat pulling back on the throttle, when the throttle gets to the point when the boat should come off of plane, it feels like it’s binding, and it will not pull back anymore to slow the boat.

The only way to stop the boat is to turn off the engine with the key…just like before.

This is like the fourth time I have been for a two minute boat ride (test run), but it takes twice as long to launch, or load the boat…it’s starting to take the fun out of boating.

I’m not sure what I’ll do next, for now I’m trying not to think about it, because it doesn’t make sense.

[Axhammer]

The good thing is the engine runs great, smooth and powerful, like it should.

The boat looks and rides great, especially today, since the water was very calm.