For those of you running Active Target are you running an extra battery for your graphs specifically and the other for your motor only? Running two HDS 12’s and when using active target all day my battery is often run down too much to start the motor. It all depends on how long I’m in one spot but trying to figure out how to avoid having to jump my motor when this happens.
I gotta new group 31 lead acid batt with 190rc and 950cca that runs my 2 HDS units, my AT2 and starts my Merc 150 4S. No issues.
John Walker - Matthews NC
2021 Ranger RT198P - Mercury 150 4S - Enertia Eco
VesselView Link - MotorGuide Tour Pro - Lowrance Carbons
Group 31 AGM should run that small load all day with no issues. Stop Sonar on AT and units not in use will help some but you are drawing less than 10 amps. A decent battery should be able to go at least 8-9 hours.
NoCAL
2004TR-21X/2015 250 ProXS
2B112175
I just recently added the 2nd HDS 12 to my bow and never had a battery issue until I added the second graph so it’s definitely related to that. I will try stopping the sonar that is not in use and see if that is what was drawing the power down.
Oh and yes I am running a group 31 AGM. Again never had an issue until adding the second HDS 12
Yep good plan. I bet you can easily make it all day on any good group 31 batt. Also make sure your wiring setup does not cause a large voltage drop. No I'm not talking all the high-dollar "harness" stuff. Just make sure when you measure voltage with your meter at the batt post and then with the meter where the HDS unit power wire is connected (terminal block, buss bar, whatever) is 3% or less voltage drop. Or at least 3% is a good standard to shoot for.Originally Posted by NitroBoy8
John Walker - Matthews NC
2021 Ranger RT198P - Mercury 150 4S - Enertia Eco
VesselView Link - MotorGuide Tour Pro - Lowrance Carbons
I’m running the graphs on an Ionic 125 lithium and have a lead acid as the cranker. Decided to put a switch onto the lithium and lead acid, where they both can start my motor, should the need arise.
Yes, I use a 20Ah LiFePo4 for it, simply because I move it from boat to boat. If I had it permanently in one boat, I would use the same LiFePo4 as for my other electronics. There is no lead-based battery in the world that would both fit in my boat and handle the draw so no AGM for electronics in my boat, to expensive in the long run to use lead-based batteries for anything other than cranking.
I use similar setup as TC, use a 23Ah LiFePo4 with the battery and AT hub in a case where I can plug in the Ethernet from the hub to a unit on bow or the stern, depending how I am fishing.
I run a separate battery for the bow Lowrance Live 12 and AT module only.
Wanted clean power for the AT.
Using a $100 Walmart 27DC. I also use 2 of these for the trolling motor.
Good results over these years with these. I fish almost every weekend.
You all day bass fisherman are harder on batteries than I am.
I recently bought an X2 battery (1150cca). I had a group 31 before but wasn't big enough (800 cca). I run 2 9" Carbons and one 1 2" Carbon with AT. I did get in the habit on putting a unit on standby or stop the at transducer that I was not using. Charges quicker when running from one area to another.
2019 Phoenix 919 Pro XP
225 Mercury 4 Stroke ProXS (# 2B591262)
MinnKota Ultrex trolling motor
Lowrance HDS Carbons
I just got done installing a lowrance setup on my skeeter. I put 2 9" units on the bow and 1 12" unit at the console and also installed active target. When doing it I bought a dedicated battery for the graphs. Have it hooked to a breaker that runs to a fuse block in my starboard locker. From there I have everything powered off the fuse block. I can't post results other than everything turns on and works as it should as we will have hard water hear till 1st of may from the looks of it. For a battery I went with a weize 100ah off amazon as it was cheap and had good results from others on here. In all the cost of wiring eveything to a dedicated battery including the battery it's self cost me about $500.
I'm getting ready to do a similar install on my dads ranger. We use his AT for ice fishing. I am planning on hooking his AT up directly to a 24AH lithium that came with his ice bundle. For a few more bucks I am going to buy him an adaptor that will allow him to hook it up to his Milwaukee tool batteries as a back up. This could be a option for you, taking your AT of your main battery. I think a 12" and the AT have about the same draw when running.
How do you have the battery securely mounted?
X2 battery runs my AT2, 3D module, three 12-inch units and 1 GPS unit, all my accessories, pumps, lights and starts my big motor. I carry a jump starter--I have never had to use it.
I'm running 3-Carbon 9's and 1 Carbon 12 along with my Active Target all on my Group 31, I upgraded the wiring and also have the Power Pole Charge and don't have any issues with low voltage.
I have many days I fish more than 10 hours. I decided to go to a 100ah lithium for my electronics only. Will see how that does. Per calculations I should get 12-13 hours running three graphs and active target. The battery I got does not have Bluetooth so will see how it does once the ice thaws. I have days I’ll fish from 6am till about 7 or 8 pm.
I have a portable kit where both the module and the battery is mounted in a box. That box fits in the front-locker on my boat, next to the batteries for my TM and the house battery, and is strapped down there. (I take the lid of the box when using it like this, so the module gets the ventilation it needs.)
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