I just completed install on 2 Lowrance 9s and a Lowrance 12 on my ZXR20. Having always run Lowrance I was lost with the helix units not being touch screen and just couldn’t get used to the menus. I took advantage of RMP’s trade in program and got my three units on an even swap. Out of pocket I had to buy a point 1 and the NEMA network cables and 2 ethernet cords. While I did it I installed active target as well. Figured I would post what I did to provide ideas and to anyone who swaps brands in the future.
To start with I decided to put all my electronics to a dedicated house battery. For the battery I went with a Weize 100AH. For the wiring I used 8 gage marine duplex wire. I ran the 8 gage up to the starboard locker and installed a blue seas fuse block under the day box. I also mounted the Active target module there as well. The day box drops in and doesn’t hit the AT module or fuse block.
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Off the fuse block I made two runs of 12ga duplex marine wire to the bow, 1 for each unit. For the connections to the power cords of the units I used male 18-22 gage spade connectors and female 12 gage connectors. After making the connections I wrapped them in electrical tape to keep them from pulling apart. I mounted the two units using the factory stirrup mount and a stra8up duel plate. I also ran 1 18 gage wire that is used to hook up the wake-up wire on the AT module and the power cord of the unit I plan to run the AT on.
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Mounting the AI 3-1 transducer was difficult due to the mega DI transducer built into it. I ultimately used a 4” rubber pipe clamp and cut it into three prices to fit behind the mega ducer. I then used a RMP transducer mount. I used 1/8” rubber washers as shims between the mega DI transducer and the RMP bracket to keep the bracket flush and not moving on the metal. The rubber shims needed 1/16” rubber washers to fill a small gap. After tightening with the hose clamps it’s very solid. If it doesn’t hold up I guess I’ll have to swap the ultrex to a ghost.
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After I completed the bow I went to work on the console. My findings was that there wasn’t much room to run additional wiring out of the tunnel under console with the factory harness. What I did was run all the wiring into the console from behind the black panel behind the hotfoot. I ultimately had two nema cables, a Ethernet cable, two transducers, and two power wires. 1 for the unit and 1 to power the NEMA network. I drilled a few holes in the black panel and was able to run all the wiring through. After getting everything ram up into the console I cleaned it up with a 1” rubber clamp. Once the cables were run the real fun began in trying to figure out how to mount the Lowrance to the factory dash plate. (I didn’t feel like spending 400 on a new dash plate.)
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For the dash plate I cut out the gussets on the bracket that held the helix’s gimbal bracket. Cutting them out was necessary to be able to get all the cables plugged into the Lowrance unit. I then took a piece of aluminum angle and cut it to the width if the Lowrance gimbal. I sandwiched the Lowrance gimbal to the bottom of the factory bracket and the aluminum angle and bolted it all together. Overall it turned out well and is really solid. I’ll see how this works long term but so far I like it.
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For the point 1 I mounted that on the rear deck lid and secured the wiring to the underside of the lid. It’s about a foot forward if my transducer. Overall there were some things to figure out and so mods made to save some dollars.
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