Yellow wake up wire question

[fish80]

I have an HDS Gen 3 on my console and just recently got a structure scan 3d module. I have the graph wired straight to my battery with the red wire going thru a breaker and to the battery, and the black wire to the battery. I do not have the yellow wire from the graph to anything. Can I wire the SS 3D module straight to the battery also just like the graph? Do I need to connect the yellow wire from the SS 3D module to the yellow wire from the graph? Or do I need to connect the yellow wire to the power bus under my Ranger's console for the graph and SS 3D module? Thanks for any help

[Marc Marcantonio]

The yellow wire has to be connected to a 12v source or your SS3D will not work. Highly recommend you connect the yellow to either one of your Ranger's accessory switches at the console. Your accessory switches have a wire hanging under the console with a butt connector already attached. Probably orange wire with blue stripe but check your wire diagram under the rear compartment lid.

Connect the red wire to the positive buss, and the black to the negative.

This way when not using your SS3D you won't need it powered on and wasting battery juice.

[ChuckH]

The yellow wire has to be connected to a 12v source or your SS3D will not work. Highly recommend you connect the yellow to either one of your Ranger's accessory switches at the console. Your accessory switches have a wire hanging under the console with a butt connector already attached. Probably orange wire with blue stripe but check your wire diagram under the rear compartment lid.

Connect the red wire to the positive buss, and the black to the negative.

This way when not using your SS3D you won't need it powered on and wasting battery juice.

Another option, the one I’ve used on several boats. The yellow wire on an accessory (like SS3D, etc) is known as a wake-up. The yellow wire on a MFD is known as a wake-up initiator. If your accessory and mfd are wired red to battery / switch and your blacks are connected to ground and you tie the yellow from your accessory to your mfd, when you power the mfd up, it will power up the SS3D. Also when you power down your MFD it will power down your SS3D. I use this set up in my 520R. I power up the SSD3 when I power up my MFD at the console. I also power up my active target, when I power up my Bow MFD, but I also have the red on my active target being driven by ACC3 so I can power it down Independently from the bow MFD. Good Luck.

[fish80]

Thank you for the help.

[ksubasser24]

Agree with mark. Hook the yellow on the SS3D to a ACC switch if possible. However if you so choose you can hook the yellow wire to the yellow wire on the unit. By doing this the box will turn on when you power on the unit. On my skeeter I did not have a acc switch available and didn't want to add a switch so I went with connecting the yellow wires on the unit and module box. The only downside to a acc switch is if you forget to turn it off. I had my SS3D on a acc switch when I had my ranger and can't count how many times I got home and backed the boat in the garage and could hear the transducer pinging because I forgot to turn the switch off. Just something to be aware of.

[WillFishforBeer]

I went through this last March when I bought my new (old) boat. Bubba had been in the wiring, A LOT. A previous owner had added a jankety master power switch, albeit a good idea, but I know why he did it, because the battery was dying all the time. That's because the Structure Scan module was wired hot with no means to turn it off. And with the unit being so far under the dash, you can't see the LED status lights. It wasn't until I was working at the back of the boat and inadvertently swept my hand under the transducer and I could hear the telltale sonar sounds...
Eventually I rewired the entire boat.

TLDR, definitely make use of the yellow wire.

[Marc Marcantonio]

Agree with mark. Hook the yellow on the SS3D to a ACC switch if possible. However if you so choose you can hook the yellow wire to the yellow wire on the unit. By doing this the box will turn on when you power on the unit. On my skeeter I did not have a acc switch available and didn't want to add a switch so I went with connecting the yellow wires on the unit and module box. The only downside to a acc switch is if you forget to turn it off. I had my SS3D on a acc switch when I had my ranger and can't count how many times I got home and backed the boat in the garage and could hear the transducer pinging because I forgot to turn the switch off. Just something to be aware of.

Tha Ranger accessory switches on both the console and bow panels are factory wired to the main power breaker back at the starting battery. When done fishing, before charging, you should always power off this breaker and the trolling motor breaker. If you add a house battery solely for electronics it should also have a breaker.

My accessory switches are normally left in the "on" position
when I turn off the main breaker at the end of the day. This way they also are automatically "on" when I start the next day, but were not powered when the main breaker was off for battery charging.

Very simple, easy, and if you ever have your starting battery get weak with age you will be glad you wired the yellow wire to a switch.

[ksubasser24]

Tha Ranger accessory switches on both the console and bow panels are factory wired to the main power breaker back at the starting battery. When done fishing, before charging, you should always power off this breaker and the trolling motor breaker. If you add a house battery solely for electronics it should also have a breaker.

My accessory switches are normally left in the "on" position
when I turn off the main breaker at the end of the day. This way they also are automatically "on" when I start the next day, but were not powered when the main breaker was off for battery charging.

Very simple, easy, and if you ever have your starting battery get weak with age you will be glad you wired the yellow wire to a switch.

I agree but not everyone shuts there master power off when they leave the lake. I know I didn’t as I liked to be able to lower poles with my remote from my truck to get backed into the garage. It’s just something to consider when powering the yellow wire off a switch. If you forget to shut the switch off and don’t have a master power it’s going to be running. I mention it cause I have made several 2 hour trips home only to hear the transducer running when getting ready to shut everything down and plug in to charge. Eventually I got used to the switch and would remember to shut off. Part of my problem to was I had the push button switches in my z119c and the lights failed in almost all of them.