Vault hubs....how to change

[Luke]

So my 2003 Trailer has Vaults.
I have heard they are a 10 year deal. Mine have never had an issue with them, but dont want to either.
I have read a little about changing them to normal grease type hubs and some of what I have read says all that is needed is a rear seal and then the cap.
Is it really that simple to swap these? Just a seal then bearing buddy cap?
Any where I go its at least a 2 hour one way drive and I have had the boat in TX,AR,FL,AL all in the last 4 years and dont plan to stop going other places so want to make sure that it is good to go anywhere.
Mine do show a little grease on the wheels all the time. But they have been like that since I bought the boat 4 years ago so no telling how long before I bought it if anything has ever been done with them.
Was watching some videos last night that Rick did when Ken Smith was doing all of his boat testing and Rick even said he prefers the normal grease type hubs.

[Gun Runner]

So my 2003 Trailer has Vaults.
I have heard they are a 10 year deal. Mine have never had an issue with them, but dont want to either.
I have read a little about changing them to normal grease type hubs and some of what I have read says all that is needed is a rear seal and then the cap.
Is it really that simple to swap these? Just a seal then bearing buddy cap?
Any where I go its at least a 2 hour one way drive and I have had the boat in TX,AR,FL,AL all in the last 4 years and dont plan to stop going other places so want to make sure that it is good to go anywhere.
Mine do show a little grease on the wheels all the time. But they have been like that since I bought the boat 4 years ago so no telling how long before I bought it if anything has ever been done with them.
Was watching some videos last night that Rick did when Ken Smith was doing all of his boat testing and Rick even said he prefers the normal grease type hubs.

My 2008 vault hubs have a zirk fitting on them or buddy bearing if thats what ya wanna call it . I wouldnt change them just because there old , keep an eye on them and do yearly maintenance and theyll last you a long time . Every year , once a year , I jack up all trailer wheels and spin them over and listen for any noises or roaring and check for tightness of the wheel/castle nut by shaking the wheel for tightness of the bearings . Then I shoot them each up with grease until there almost full and thats it . I do that EVERY year once a year . But if you wanna change them its not hard at all and pretty straight forward like any other trailer .

[Louie]

Rick probably likes the normal hubs because hes going to inspect or repack them bi annually. I would recommend doing that on any type of trailer bearing. Youtube how to service or replace trailer wheel bearings. If you are mechanically inclined its not a terrible job. The most painful part every time I do a bearing is matching up the seals. (Back and forth to the parts stores) Its cheap insurance imo, maybe $40 in parts with grease. The bearings will have numbers lazer etched on them so if you find a bunch of chatter marks on the races in there you can just search the numbers for a new set.

[catdude28]

I have done this before when I had a premature seal failure on a Vault hub. I disassembled the hub, cleaned out all of the hybrid grease, repacked with Lucas Red, installed the new seal, and put it all back together. You can even re-use the Vault cap, just fill it with grease. You don’t need a bearing buddy. As long as the little black rubber is just protruding from the cap, you know there is enough pressure in there. Haven’t touched it in three years since. This was BCB’s recommendation. In your situation, you may want to replace the bearings.

[Luke]

Talked to the parts guys at the factory.
Their recomendation was to just replace with new seals and bearings if needed and put a bearing buddy or the EZ lube caps and convert it.
I was hoping that was all that needed done.
Will be another project to do soon.
Too many projects and wants on this old girl, but sure beats going and buying a new one.

[apdriver]

I just did mine at the 10 year mark. They were making me nervous and just don’t believe I wanted to pull them until failure. Just like your boat motor, they need maintenance too. Went back with Valvoline Red grease. Water resistant I think. BassCat has recommended going back with the vault hubs and caps as there is an extra seal, which is an Oring on the outer portion of the hub where the bearing cap mates. I suggest replacing these as they’re 2 bucks a piece. Here’s a link to the owners manual for your hubs.

http://www.ezloader.com/images/20160...8ed8d1cf09.pdf

You may want to service your brakes while you’re at it. I replaced the pads and the brake fluid in mine. Remove the cap from the reservoir and suck all the old fluid out and replace it with new Dot 3. Then start bleeding. I bled a whole cup of fluid through the brake system until new clear fluid was at the bleeder. Only one of my axles has brakes. Here’s the owners manual for your coupler and it explains the operation of the UFP coupler and brakes.

https://trailmastertrailers.com/wp-c...aintenance.pdf

I recommend buying the pads from BassCat as the KIA pads have to be modified to use. The have a squealer brake pad wear indicator that must be removed to use them. Just easier getting the right UFP parts. You will also need the rear double lipped oil seal and parts prolly has those also. That and the O rings, time and elbow grease. Good luck….

[g2072]

I just got through doing mine a few weeks ago. I used National part number 470460 for seals on my 2013 trailer.

I took mine apart and cleaned everything and packed my bearings by hand. I took air and blew the zerk fitting hole out to clean it. I put plenty of grease in my hub just to make it easier to fill once it was all back together and once it was assembled I put a zerk fitting in and took a grease gun and filled until it started squeezing out around the washer and castle nut. Then I filled my Vault cap and put it back on. I'll probably check it in three or so years.

I have always checked my hubs for heat when towing. Unless you have a catastrophic bearing failure they will usually start heating up before causing problems. Just put your hand on the hub when you stop or get to the ramp. A little heat is ok but it shouldn't be hot. One tub and one tube did all four of mine. I used the Lucas red and tacky grease.

The thread I started is on the second page of the BassCat forum.

[Redngoo]

Done my 13 model last year. Basically just tear down, inspect for pitting on races, inner races on the bearings, and actual taper bearings for pitting. If you have pitting on these replace as a set. Inspect wear band on spindle for the seal for grooves(replace if needed). If all checks are good. Hand pack bearings with your choice of grease(I used lucas and tacky) though there are many that fit the bill!. Basically what you have had SUCCESS with! Install new double lip seals(important)! Install the nut and washer per the manufacturer directions(or what you was taught and had success with). If you re use the cap and oring inspect promptly. Install cap ( I used loctite 620 in which I use at my job with success) some use red silicone) again what you have had success with. Install tire and rim torque to specs. I always check the side to side specs. If in spec roll ON!. First trip check for heat often. If everything checks good. I jack up each axle at at least twice a year(check for side movement). If no seals have failed and checks are good, I'm good to go !

[Judson1]

I have a spare hub as I bought two new ones last year along with an axle. The new ones are not Vault and are on the back (brake hubs). I plan to change out the Vault system on this spare and maybe put it into use on the front axle. Then take the one from the front I replaced and do the same thing. I plan to have a spare in the truck that if needed I could just take off the grade 8 bolt and replace.

[Bass Cat Boats]

There’s no reason to change any hard core parts when changing from thixotropic grease (Vault) to regular grease. The same cap, bearings and races will be fine, you just need a new seal.

Suggestion:
DO NOT a place a grease gun on any zerk or trailer bearing. Simple hand pack the bearings and asssemble. The pressure has no place to escape the hub and compresses the grease, escaping the rear of the hub by blowing the inside grease retention seal.

[Ryan2005]

Do all the vault hubs use the same seal. I have a 2015 trailer and I am wanting to convert mine over. Does anyone have the part number for the double lip seals. I would like to get them before I tear everything down.

[apdriver]

Do all the vault hubs use the same seal. I have a 2015 trailer and I am wanting to convert mine over. Does anyone have the part number for the double lip seals. I would like to get them before I tear everything down.

2.56 X 1.68 Rear Double Lipped Marine Seal is National part # 470460. Napa part # is 550244. Recent price was around 13 bucks a piece. This is for the vault hub. No conversion necessary. Same part that came with the vault and you use that if staying with the vault hub.

[Ryan2005]

Good deal. Thank you for the part numbers. This helps alot. Gonna be alot cheaper than buying 4 new hub/axle assemblies.

[apdriver]

Good deal. Thank you for the part numbers. This helps alot. Gonna be alot cheaper than buying 4 new hub/axle assemblies.

No doubt. I thought the vault hubs had some kind of voo doo in there but it’s just a different twist on the same hubs we have used for years. Double lip rear seal and an extra o ring for a front seal. It’s actually a very nice part.

[Jp2195]

Does anyone have part #'s for the O rings? Or All Seals needed for service . I have a hub that's got some wobble to it and just going to service and repack all 4 wheels before a trip in 2 weeks. This post was super helpful so THANK YOU
so far I have
Bearing #'s L68149 & L44649
Race #'s L68110 & L44610
Double lip Marine seal Natl #470460.

Thanks for any other help.

[apdriver]

Pretty sure it’s this one.

https://www.trailerandtruckparts.com...00_p_4522.html