I replaced bearings and seal on my trailer. Now on one of the hubs I’m having trouble getting the dust cover to stay on. I tried a different cover on the same hub and it’s the same. Doesn’t take much effort to get it off the hub. I’m worried it won’t stay on the hub while towing. Hate to replace the hub. What are some tricks I should try? I was thinking of using RTV or some other type of adhesive.
It is most likely that the assembly is not torqued down enough allowing the hub/wheel to have just enough extra wobble to push the dust cap off. Pre-load the hub to 50lbs, back it off, then load it again to 50lbs. After setting the hub torque to where you think it should be, grab the wheel when off the ground and try to shake it. You should feel just a very little movement... not zero but very little.
Also, do NOT re-use dust caps. I have learned this the hard way. They should fit REALLY tight when you install them. You should almost struggle to get them started on.
When you remove a dust cap that is on as tight as it should be, you deform it from a circle shape to more of an oval.
Buy enough extra dust caps to have around for your maintenance needs. Bang them off, throw them away, do your maintenance, install new dust caps. Use a block of wood and hammer and drive the caps on until the lip on the cap is absolutely flush against the hub.
Do NOT use an adhesive what ever you do!
To clarify, I assume when you say "dust cap" you are referring to the whole assembly the steel cap and the rubber cover. Do not re-use the rubber covers, either. But definitely do not re-use the steel caps.
Last edited by Johnnyred; 03-03-2023 at 07:34 AM.
John Walker - Matthews NC
2021 Ranger RT198P - Mercury 150 4S - Enertia Eco
VesselView Link - MotorGuide Tour Pro - Lowrance Carbons
Thanks. I did the torque sequence as described. I’ll buy new dust caps and see if that makes a difference.Originally Posted by Johnnyred
I'm not sure what you are tightening to 50# and torque what distance the 50# is. Is it foot pounds or inch pounds? If you are talking the steel hub cover it fits inside the hub. The hub is cast iron, the hole is not likely to change diameter.
I endorse buying replacement covers. Are we on the same page with the hubs or are they some odd design I never heard about?
A fool proof way to preload a roller bearing hub is tighten it down tight, then back it off until you can move the washer under the nut side to side with a screwdriver with a slight drag. That's about .001"
Metal don't squeeze.
50ftlbs is the manufacturer's spec. White River had a recall last year for hubs,wheels not torqued enough. They had the dealers use a torque wrench and torqued to 50ftlbs. Owners duct caps were coming off, water intrusion, etc.
John Walker - Matthews NC
2021 Ranger RT198P - Mercury 150 4S - Enertia Eco
VesselView Link - MotorGuide Tour Pro - Lowrance Carbons
Check that the inner surface of the hub is smooth and clean. Maybe it’s not seating fully.
If you have integrity, nothing else matters. If you don't have integrity,
nothing else matters.
O.K. I'm outta here. Some different type of hub assembly that I'm not familiar with, not trailer wheels. I did find the 50 ft lb figure, but it was for cars and trucks with sealed front wheel bearings.
If it's a conventional trailer I recommend my above documented method.
Found this for cars and trucks it would fry a conventional trailer bearing:
- Seat the bearing components by torquing the adjusting nut to 200 lb-ft (or the manufacturer’s specs).
- Be sure to rotate the hub while slowly torquing the adjusting nut. This fully seats the rollers in the races.
- Loosen the adjusting nut by one full turn or until it’s loose. This allows some end play.
- Torque the adjusting nut to 50 lb-ft. Rotate the wheel hub assembly at the same time.
- Turn back the adjusting nut. Find out the appropriate amount. For example, if you have a 12-threads-per-inch front steer axle, turn it back by 1/6 of a turn.
- This prevents the bearing from running hot and getting damaged.
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