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  1. #1
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    Drains on transom shelf

    I am not sure what the appropriate term is for this area on the transom. The drains are positioned about 5/8" up from the horizontal shelf resulting in standing water constantly and possibly chronically leaking down into the transom I don't know if they were placed at that position on purpose or just easiest to drill during construction. It seems logical to drill a lower hole so this doesn't hold water... . I know I'd need to place some sort of ferrule to reduce water intrusion into transom. Do you guys have any suggestions ? Leave it the heck alone?

    boat shelf.jpg

  2. Member
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    #2
    Bud, Champions usually let water access the transom core under the angle stainless trim under the steering ram but above the "Champion" Upper transom saver. The transition from Deadrise on the Transom to Deck. There is a seam there which is usually poorly sealed. The seam just about paid for my shop @ $5K a pop to replace the transom with Coosa Bluewater 26. The tool that installs the 7/8in tube needs a flat surface inside and out to work properly. The radius in the splash well is required for strength as the transom to cap lamination is behind it. You can tap around the splashwell drain with a small plastic hammer to sound for rot spots. If it is hard leave it alone. If not pull the stainless angle and check the seam for water intrusion.

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    #3
    Good info to know. Any reason to remove that stainless cap to check as well as reseal it maybe with new better stuff? Its always a little tough to know without knowing how these things were constructed if that's a bad rabbit hole to go down.

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    #4
    What year is your boat first? I don't think the TN Champions had any wood in the transom but 2000 models back did. Yes, pull the stainless trim if you suspect anything related to a leak there.
    Last edited by rojoguio; 02-18-2023 at 06:36 AM.

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    #5
    You can pull one bolt and take a pick tp check the transome core. Take a top one out and inspect, put it back in with rtv, pull a bottom bolt and reapeat. You only need to pull one top and one boattom, no the motor own't fall off the boat.
    2023 SCB 20EF
    2023 SCB CC 210LR

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    #6
    Quote Originally Posted by rojoguio View Post
    What year is your boat first? I don't think the TN Champions had any wood in the transom but 2000 models back did. Yes, pull the stainless trim if you suspect anything related to a leak there.
    Its a 1990 model. No evidence of issue with transom but recarpeting and finding some issues elsewhere that suggest not thought out or less than great craftsmanship to prevent water intrusion issues. I prefer good preventative maintenance and to fix stuff when convenient for me vs Murphy's law always being in charge.

  7. Member 86 inches's Avatar
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    #7
    .
    Last edited by 86 inches; 02-21-2023 at 09:24 PM.
    1994 201 Champ re-powered with a 250 HO G2 E250LHAFA 05438419


  8. Member
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    #8
    Champion was pretty flush with money in 1990 I made most of my transom repair money on 1996-2000 model years both Bass & CC boats. They all had the stainless strip that let water into the transom core. Like the local machinist who did my outboard boring for me said, "VRO is very good to me", he had 2 camps, his kids went to private schools, everything including his shop was paid for by VRO.

  9. Member 86 inches's Avatar
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    #9
    .
    Last edited by 86 inches; 02-21-2023 at 09:24 PM.
    1994 201 Champ re-powered with a 250 HO G2 E250LHAFA 05438419


  10. Member 86 inches's Avatar
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    #10
    .
    Last edited by 86 inches; 02-21-2023 at 09:25 PM.
    1994 201 Champ re-powered with a 250 HO G2 E250LHAFA 05438419


  11. Member
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    #11
    I posted a tutorial on installing the tubes in my VL100 Blazer restoration thread too. I didn't use any spacers, everything is solid composite with a Coosa Bluewater 26 core. You may have to scroll thru to find it. A search should work as my post then is dedicated to the tubes.