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  1. #1
    Member Big dreams's Avatar
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    Connecting 250ss to Lowrance Unit

    Does anyone know what is needed to connect my 2020/2021 250ss to an HDS Live unit? I would like to monitor as much as possible without getting a second gauge.

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    #2
    It can be done, for sure! Exactly how the connection is done depends on what gauge you have now.

    What gauge/s do you currently have? The options typically are

    Suzuki Analogue tachometer with 4 warning lights? Or
    Suzuki C-10 (digital gauge with square corners) or
    Suzuki SMG4 (digital gauge with rounded corners).

    A photo of your dash would help too.
    Last edited by Moonlighter; 02-09-2023 at 03:42 PM.

  3. Member Big dreams's Avatar
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    #3
    All of the gauges are analogue. I will get a picture of the dash and post it.

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    #4
    If you don't have the Suzuki C10 gauge, you will need a Suzuki Engine Interface cable that will connect into your NMEA 2000 network and go from there. Once connected to the NMEA 2000 network, then you have to program the inputs and create a digital gauge and etc. I can walk you through setting up the HDS Live once your network is connected to the motor. However, I'm not 100% certain where the NMEA network connects at on the motor.

    I believe this is the correct interface cable.

    https://www.brownspoint.com/store/pc...5-38p71395.htm
    2018 Bass Cat Lynx w/Suzuki 250SS.

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    #5
    You can have analog gauges and the interface hooked to your Lowrance at the same time. I do on my Triton. The interface plugs into the same connector as the Suzuki scan tool.

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    #6
    Ok. Previous posts are basically on the money. But only present one choice.

    There are still 2 main options to consider.

    In both cases, I assume that you already have a NMEA200 backbone established. If not, you are going to need to get a NMEA2000 backbone Starter Kit and put it in.

    Option 1: replace the analogue gauges with a single Suzuki SMG4 digital gauge. Its almost all done behind the console. SMG4 is the best possible digital gauge to use, its OEM Suzuki genuine.

    This is the kit you would get for a mechanical control engine, you can get them from most Suzuki dealers and probably at better prices than this, although I have found Brownspoint to be very helpful people and I don’t hesitate to recommend them.

    https://www.brownspoint.com/store/pc...-405p76731.htm

    So you would remove the analogue gauges and insert the SMG4 into the tacho hole, it fits the same size hole, although the outside dimensions of the SMG4 are a bit wider. You then run a NMEA2000 drop cable from SMG4 to your existing network and it will share engine data to any display on the network including your HDS, and it will take gps data from the network to calculate mpg, distance to empty, etc.

    If you are interested in this option I can post a link to SMG4 installation manual that has dimensions and wiring details. So let me know.

    The only thing you change at the engine end is to swap the harness connection that goes to the dash across to the SDS plug. A 30 second job.

    FYI the SMG4 gauge is now the standard Suzuki digital gauge worldwide. Its been that way everywhere except the US since 2015. It is therefore well proven and is rock solid reliable. Nowhere else in the world uses the interface based system since 2015. C-10 gauges are only ever sold in the US.


    Option 2
    Is to maintain your exisiting analogue gauges, and add a Suzuki interface cable to get digital data to the console that can be shared onto the network and then displayed on your HDS.

    You need:
    1. A Suzuki interface cable version 3.5.7
    2. A SDS adapter cable. They are available in short and long lengths. My strong advice is to get the long one, for reasons I will explain shortly.

    Installation of Option 2:
    You plug the SDS adapter cable into the SDS port on the engine, run it back into the boat through the rigging tube (will have to take the cowl and side covers off to open up the grommet that takes cables etc back into the boat) and from there up to your console. Then Plug the interface cable into the SDS plug at that end. Plug the other end of the interface cable into your NMEA2000 network. You then have to configure the interface using the HDS, usually it detects the network and runs a setup wizard to guide you through, its pretty easy.

    The reason for the long SDS adapter cable is that heat and water are bad news for the interface cables. If you use the short version, it means that the interface has to be placed either under the engine cowl or just inside the transom - and neither of these places is ideal for obvious reasons. Far better to use the long cable so the interface can live its life behind the console where its relatively cool dry and clean.

    Why I now prefer SMG4:

    I believe that the main reasons Suzuki is moving away from the interface based gauges is reliability and consistency, as well as manufacturer allegiance.

    The interfaces can be problematic. They can and do fail from things like electrical spikes via the network and if water gets into the module on the cable, its game over, buy a new one.

    Also, every few years in the past, there had to be new software written to get them to work with the latest engines. It has lead to a situation where you have to have fairly expert knowledge to select the interface cable running the correct software version to work properly with your engine year. At present there are 3 versions, one for engines up to 2007, one for engines 2008-2012, and one for 2013 to current. Over on THT I have a sticky thread that runs to over 800,000 views dealing with that very issue.

    The Suzuki C-10 gets a bad wrap from some people. Actually, the gauge itself rarely has problems, 99.9% of the “failures” are not the C-10, they are failures of the interface cable to send data to the network, which means the C-10 doesn’t display anything. Its like blaming the computer monitor when you get the “blue screen of death” - the monitor is fine, its the computer that’s dead!

    Lastly, the interfaces are made for Suzuki by Navico. As you may know, Navico (Lowrance and Simrad parent company) is now owned by Brunswick Corp (Mercury) so we dont know what support is going to come from them to the Suzuki interface based system in the future. That seems likely to be another nail in the interface coffin…..

    Any questions, just ask.
    Last edited by Moonlighter; 02-10-2023 at 10:21 PM.

  7. Member Big dreams's Avatar
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    #7
    Thank you all for the input. I didn't want to get rid of the analogue gauges because they all match and it looks complete. Taking what Moonlighter said about that option and possible issues down the road, it has me rethinking this. I am still leaning toward using the HDS to see the data. I would like to see engine hours, engine temp, fuel consumption mpg, and any other data I am missing. Do both of these options show those outputs?

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    #8
    They sure do.

    The interface will give engine hours, engine temp, alternator voltage, fuel flow rate, fuel used/remaining, trim position. The Lowrance will use fuel flow rate to calculate and display mpg.

    SMG4 gives all that except fuel remaining. It also gives trip distance and distance to empty. Plus it will show engine faults in words rather than codes so easier to work out.

    SMG4 has another neat feature where if there is a problem, you can use it to generate a full ecu report that turns into a QR code that you can send via an app to your Suzuki dealer to help them diagnose the problem.

    See more info here from Suzuki Australia (hope you can understand proper English LOL!)



    And an overview of SMG4 from the same source

    Last edited by Moonlighter; 02-11-2023 at 02:44 PM.

  9. Member Big dreams's Avatar
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    #9
    I am going to go the HDS Live route. I don't want to drill a hole in my new rig for the SMG4 and the output style just doesn't do it for me. What is the SDS cable you mentioned? I found the interface cable v3.5 from the link above. I am not sure what SDS means and my first few searches came up empty.

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    #10
    I will explain further so you understand why this adapter cable is required.

    The Suzuki engine interface cable is fitted with the correct s e x plugs to connect to the gauge harness behind the dash.

    However, when you keep the analogue gauges, you cant use those plugs because the analogue gauges are connected to them, so you need to connect the interface cable to the Suzuki Diagnostic System (SDS) plug on the engine, and this plug is the incorrect s e x to work.

    The SDS plug is found in a small rubber holder near the ecu on the engine. We are talking about the same plug that the tech connects their laptop to when they download diagnostics from the engine to the SDS program in their laptop.

    As an FYI, the ecu has 2 plugs that can connect to the harness that runs up to the dash. One is for analogue gauges, the other is for digital gauges. The SDS plug is the one that is used for digital gauges.

    The SDS adapter cable fixes the incorrect plug s e x issue, and also effectively acts as a second gauge harness that runs from the SDS plug, back into the boat via the rigging grommet and up to the dash/console.

    I found this 21ft long version on a US online site that I have purchased from previously. First time I have seen a long SDS adapter cable for sale in the US. That would be the one to use, rather than the short 4ft. version which, of course, wont be long enough to reach most consoles. Note: be careful when you install it. Although the plugs on both ends are the same, the wiring isnt, so there is an engine end and a dash end to this cable so make sure you install it the right way.

    https://suzukioutboardmarine.com/pro...i-sds-adapter/


    Just one final note re installing a SMG4 - if you already have the Suzuki analogue tach or speedo, it fits in the same hole. No drilling required.
    Last edited by Moonlighter; 02-14-2023 at 04:18 PM.

  11. Member Big dreams's Avatar
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    #11
    Gents, I appreciate your help with this. I have everything I need now but am wondering what this cable is for?

    https://www.boats.net/product/suzuki/990C0-88136

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    #12
    That is what I refer to as the SDS adapter cable. It plugs into the SDS port on the engine, and the interface cable plugs into the other end.

    Same as the one I linked earlier, but shorter.

    You can use it if you want but more than likely it wont be long enough to reach from the engine, back thru the rigging tube and into the boat, and up to your console.

    The reason that I recommend using the longer cable, or cutting and extending the standard short cable, is because the interface cable is sensitive to heat and water damage.

    Using the long cable means that the interface cable itself, plus the network T piece that it connects to, will be up behind the console where they are clean, cool and dry. If you get the short cable then the interface and the end of the backbone (T piece plus terminating resistor, so 3 connections that water can get into) will need to be just inside the transom or under the engine cowl, and neither of those locations are clean, dry or cool.

    So there are very good reasons for my recommendations.

    Note: I have been told that the longer cable that I linked in my earlier post may be designated for use with lower hp engines, but I have used the standard adapter cable with them too so I can see no reason why it would be any different to the short version - but you may want to check with the supplier.

    Otherwise, its easy to extend the short cable, just cut the end that the interface plugs into 6 inches from the plug, and solder and heat shrink in an extension to make it long enough , using similar gauge marine wire (nothing special is required).

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    #13
    Ahh ok, so I have the longer one as well. So I don't need that shorter cable which makes me happy since I misplaced it and can't find it at the moment. Ok, getting close to hooking everything together. I am thankful for you help.

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    #14
    Finally got the cables hooked up and working somewhat. When I try to configure the interface, I can only select engine years 2007 and older, 2008, 2009,....2015. 2015 is the latest engine model and I have a 2021 Suzuki 250ss. I try to choose 2015 and then Calibrate however, my selection doesn't save. I don't have the option to save anything.

    Good news is I see the hours on the motor which I never knew before. It seems I might be missing some data as the fuel tanks and water pressure for example, they are not showing up. I will post some pictures here in a minute.

    Any thoughts on how to save 2015? And does 2015 cover 2021 motors? I have the 3.5 interface cable. Thoughts?

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  16. Member Big dreams's Avatar
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    #16

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    #17
    Quote Originally Posted by Big dreams View Post
    Finally got the cables hooked up and working somewhat. When I try to configure the interface, I can only select engine years 2007 and older, 2008, 2009,....2015. 2015 is the latest engine model and I have a 2021 Suzuki 250ss. I try to choose 2015 and then Calibrate however, my selection doesn't save. I don't have the option to save anything.

    Good news is I see the hours on the motor which I never knew before. It seems I might be missing some data as the fuel tanks and water pressure for example, they are not showing up. I will post some pictures here in a minute.

    Any thoughts on how to save 2015? And does 2015 cover 2021 motors? I have the 3.5 interface cable. Thoughts?
    I use 2015 as well for my 2018. As for the fuel tanks and water pressure, you won't get those unless you have the specific NMEA 2000 sensors since the motor doesn't monitor those things. I believe if you have the Suzuki C10 gauge, you can set it up to account for the size of your fuel tanks, and then each time you start it up, it will ask if you put any fuel in it and etc.

    One thing I do monitor is my oil or water temperature just to make sure it's not running to hot and watch it cool down after a long run to help prevent it from vaporizing during the summer.
    2018 Bass Cat Lynx w/Suzuki 250SS.

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    #18
    As you have discovered you cannot select the engine year and hp. Because you dont need to. They are automatically detected by the interface cable, so just ignore them.

    The only thing you need to set is the engine location. Set it as Centre, save and exit. Don’t select Calibrate!! That is only when you need to calibrate trim.

    Before you did that, did you set the number of engines and fuel tank capacity? That is the first step that must be done. Done in the fuel menu.

    You should have the Version 3.5.7 interface cable. The version is printed on the module and is also shown on the device info on the configuration page.

    Every time you add fuel from now on, you need to go into the Lowrance menu, go to the Fuel menu, select Refuel, and then you have two choices:

    1. If you have filled the tank, check the set to full box and hit enter. DO NOT input the amount of fuel added. This will reset fuel used to zero and fuel remaining back to the tank capacity you entered when setting up.

    2. If you added some fuel but didnt fill to full, input the amount added. This will adjust the fuel used and fuel remaining figures to reflect the amount added.

    I always recommend checking the actual fuel it takes to fill the tank with what the system says was used the first couple of times after installing this system. Because this will tell you if the system needs to be calibrated or not. Try to go to the same gas station/pump so that the boat is at the same angle on the trailer and the tank fills to the same level.

    It should be within 2-3%l if its not, when you refuel, you can select the calibrate option after checking the set to full box, and it will ask you to then input the amount added, it will then show a new K value. This is the calibration factor that adjusts the calculations. You might have to calibrate a couple of times to get it within the 2-3% accuracy range. Then leave it alone.