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  1. #1
    Member sheffism's Avatar
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    Question Dedicated Power Plan

    6awg from battery to Blue Sea 7181 (30a breaker/switch) - 6awg from breaker to Blue Sea 5025 (6 circuit fuse block) in center rod box (3a fuse) - 10awg from fuse block to Blue Sea 2504 (4 circuit terminal block), 1 in console, 1 in bow - 18awg lowrance power cable to terminal blocks FS 7 @ bow, Live 12 @ console. Seem feasible?
    2023 RT188P, 115 ProXS CT, HDS Live 12 Console, FS 7 Bow, Ultrex 80US2 45”

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    #2
    Thats almost exactly what I have done and its been flawless

  3. Member sheffism's Avatar
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    #3
    Quote Originally Posted by bgibson View Post
    Thats almost exactly what I have done and its been flawless
    Thank you
    2023 RT188P, 115 ProXS CT, HDS Live 12 Console, FS 7 Bow, Ultrex 80US2 45”

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    #4
    Thats how I'm rolling

  5. Member sheffism's Avatar
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    #5
    Gibson,Bill, question…I only need a fuse in the fuse block for each graph, no inline fuses correct?
    2023 RT188P, 115 ProXS CT, HDS Live 12 Console, FS 7 Bow, Ultrex 80US2 45”

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    #6
    Quote Originally Posted by sheffism View Post
    Gibson,Bill, question…I only need a fuse in the fuse block for each graph, no inline fuses correct?
    Sheffism - Just noticed your post. Basically, I have the same set-up as well. I eliminated the inline fuses by using the ones in the fuse block as they are dedicated to each device.
    2022 Ranger Z519, 2022 Mercury ProXS 225 4-Stroke (SN#3B056732), Fury 4-24P, Smart Craft Gauges, Atlas Plate, Ghost TM, Lowrance Electronics, BBT mounts, Ionics.

  7. Member sheffism's Avatar
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    #7
    Quote Originally Posted by Braxtonta View Post
    Sheffism - Just noticed your post. Basically, I have the same set-up as well. I eliminated the inline fuses by using the ones in the fuse block as they are dedicated to each device.
    That’s what I thought, thanks for the confirmation.
    2023 RT188P, 115 ProXS CT, HDS Live 12 Console, FS 7 Bow, Ultrex 80US2 45”

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    #8
    Correct no inline fuses to appliances, just the fuse box is fused per circut.

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    #9
    What advantage do the terminal blocks offer as opposed to running the 10 AWG to a step down butt connector to the lowrance power cable? I assume you are using a heat shrink ring terminal for the 18 awg power cord to the blocks?
    BassCat Cougar FTD / Mercury 250 ProXS
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  10. Member sheffism's Avatar
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    #10
    Quote Originally Posted by JBIGUNS View Post
    What advantage do the terminal blocks offer as opposed to running the 10 AWG to a step down butt connector to the lowrance power cable? I assume you are using a heat shrink ring terms inal for the 18 awg power cord to the blocks?
    Yes, heat shrink ring terminals to blocks. Going this route because I don’t trust butting the large 10 to the super smaller 18. All that plus I’m not real sure what I’m doing
    2023 RT188P, 115 ProXS CT, HDS Live 12 Console, FS 7 Bow, Ultrex 80US2 45”

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    #11
    Quote Originally Posted by sheffism View Post
    Yes, heat shrink ring terminals to blocks. Going this route because I don’t trust butting the large 10 to the super smaller 18. All that plus I’m not real sure what I’m doing
    This!

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    #12
    I've got an Amazon cart ready, power wire, fuse block, battery cutoff switch, assortment of ring and inline waterproof connectors to put a fuse block in the rod locker for all the crap I am running up front, especially since I am going to add an HDS Pro 9 when they are finally available. I was also thinking of mounting the Active Target and fuse block to a piece of starboard then mount that in the rod locker, kind of make it a bit modular and get it off the carpet to help with heat flow around them.

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    #13
    Ring terminals at a fuse block are more secure, and give you the flexibility to easily make changes down the road. Also if you sell a unit or send it in for service you don't have to cut wires and later reconnect them. It also gives you a single point to check for a blown fuse, rather than having to find an in-line fuse.

    Also I might suggest using a pair of crimpers that are designed for heat shrink connectors like the model in my article and included video. They protect the heat shrink material from being damaged during the crimp, yet provide a solid connection.

    Pulling the wire is often the hardest part, so plan that carefully. Best to have 2 people (one at each end of the wire) so you can push and pull back and forth to break through spots in the conduit that have tiewraps or other obstructions. Be sure to carefully and securely tape the cable(s) to your pull rope in a way that provides a smooth transition no matter which direction the cable is being pulled. You don't want it to get stuck half way through, and then try to pull it back and have it come apart. You can do this alone but you will need patience and good planning.

    Here is an article and video that might help:

    https://storage.westernbass.com/mag_...e34/index.html
    ciao,
    Marc

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    #14
    I run almost the same.

    I have 6g Marine wire from the battery to a manual trip breaker then to a Blue Sea 12 post terminal box with fuses under my dash. Then both dash graphs I just take the Lowrance power cable direct to the fuse block for each graph. Then I ran 10g marine wire to each front graph off that terminal box for each graph, and then Livescope and Active Target boxes both are landed on the circuits as well. Each device has its own fuse, easy to get to, and with the manual breaker I can kill the entire system while charging.

    Minimum Voltage drop at best, and it's been flawless because of the clean power. I do rig on the side and will be doing this for every boat I do.
    NPAA #803

  15. Member sheffism's Avatar
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    #15
    "You can do this alone but you will need patience and good planning" I can testify brother I'm just about done, still waiting for the breaker I ordered.
    2023 RT188P, 115 ProXS CT, HDS Live 12 Console, FS 7 Bow, Ultrex 80US2 45”

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    #16
    As I mentioned in another thread, I've been wanting to switch from the SCP inline fuses to a Blue Sea fuse box such as the 5205 or similar... both at bow and console. Bow has 2 head units, Active Target power, Pole Mount power and Hydrowave power. (Actually, I think the Hyrdowave might just be wired to an oem accy lead.). Console has two head units and SS3D Module power.

    Anyway, simple enough to find mounting location under the console, but not sure about the bow. There's really no place to mount except directly into the fiberglass hull best I can tell, and not sure how thick it is - would hate to drill through and crack the gel coat, etc. I guess I could mount it in on the sidewall in the rod box, as I already have the AT and SS3D Modules there anyway, so would just be another box on the wall, and then run the leads up to the bow. That would probably be better anyway, now that I think about it, easier access to the fuses if needed, ie not haveing to pull the bow units/mount/panel, etc. Yeah, I think that's the plan.