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  1. #1
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    1-2-Both-Off Battery Disconnect Switch

    Just bought this cut-off switch ( Ampper 1-2-Both-Off Battery Disconnect Switch, 12-48 V Battery Master Cut Shut Off Isolator Switch (1-2-Both-Off) ) and wondering if I can connect the Engine and Accessories Negative terminals to Battery 1 and connect the Ultrex 36V trolling motor Negative terminal to Battery 2? The plan is to switch to 1&2 ON when I'm on the lake and switch to OFF when at home. Will this setup work ?
    Thanks

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  2. Electrical/Wiring/Trolling Motors Moderator CatFan's Avatar
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    #2
    What are you wanting to accomplish doing that? And what will you be connecting to the output of the switch?
    If you have integrity, nothing else matters. If you don't have integrity,
    nothing else matters.​

  3. Member
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    #3
    I meant to connect all the negative terminals from engine, accessories and 36v trolling motor to Off switch and connect negative terminals from engine and accessories to 1 and negative terminal from 36v trolling motor to 2. Main goal is to be able to shut down all batteries when not using!

  4. Electrical/Wiring/Trolling Motors Moderator CatFan's Avatar
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    #4
    Quote Originally Posted by KC_Gone_Fishing View Post
    I meant to connect all the negative terminals from engine, accessories and 36v trolling motor to Off switch and connect negative terminals from engine and accessories to 1 and negative terminal from 36v trolling motor to 2. Main goal is to be able to shut down all batteries when not using!
    You’d need to connect both the cranking battery negative and TM battery negative together on the common terminal of the switch. That may lead to electronics noise problems.
    If you have integrity, nothing else matters. If you don't have integrity,
    nothing else matters.​

  5. Member
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    #5
    All my graphs are connected to different battery ( 100ah lithium ) and have their own cutoff switch.

  6. Member
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    #6
    I agree with John. You need to keep the troll motor batteries separate from the cranking batter. If they get tied together with the negative you could run into a few issues. One being electronic noise and 2 electrolysis. The second issue is one you want to totally avoid. See diagram below. Only thing missing is the breaker switch for the troll motor on the positive of #1 battery. there should be a separate breaker for accessories placed on the positive of the cranking battery. This wiring method is a full proof method. You have to remember that when you use the jump in position 2 tha you must place it back in position 1 before you use your troll motor or you will run into electronic interference or electrolysis.



  7. Member
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    #7
    That makes sense! Much appreciate it!

  8. Member
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    #8
    Bradrodfish....Can you post a diagram like the one above but in the scenario of a 24 volt motor? And the switch I would need to do what you describe? I have no power cut off on my boat as of now and plan on purchasing
    lithiums and a new troller and want to be able to cut it all off.