Preferred Wiring for Bow Electronics

[kickerbass10]

Hey guys, just wanted to get a sense for how folks are wiring their bow electronics. I currently run livescope and am adding M360 and am using this opportunity to ensure all of the wiring is in order. I plan on running 6 gauge marine tinned wire but more specifically am looking to understand where guys are connecting the 6 gauge to the bow electronics.

I know some guys put busbars up at the bow of the boat for connecting all the electronics, but my concern with this approach is accessibility. It feels unnecessary to have to remove the trolling motor pedal (I have a BassCat) in the event of troubleshooting on the water. I was thinking of putting a Blue Seas terminal block in the driver's rod locker and connecting the bow electronics to that. My only concern here is I've heard issues where some of the manufacturers power cables sometimes don't supply enough power to the units (due to the length), so theoretically having the 6 gauge go all the way to the bow (with busbar/terminal block at bow) and cut down the manufacturer's power cables would supply better power (though with less accessibility).

Would love to hear thoughts! Thanks so much.

[bassin74]

I'm not a expert but this is what I'm doing to my boat. I'm running 8 gauge from battery with cut off switch in battery box to a fuse block I'm putting in my starboard compartment along with the black box. I then running 10 gauge to my garmin 10 and helix 12 at the bow. then running 10 gauge to the console for future dual graphs. I have a lowrance 9 elite flush mounted and running that for the time being

[NoCAL]

10 gauge is completely sufficient. Run wire from battery to Blue Seas fuse box. Connect console units/modules there. Run a second section of 10 gauge from the fuse box to the bow. Use a fuse that covers the load of all connections at the bow and is sufficient for 10 gauge. Connect your bow electronics to the 10 gauge from the console with their own 12 gauge power cables using the included fuses.

NoCAL

[MCIPinkie]

I did mine a little differently.

I ran a 8 ga pair from the battery to a Blue Seas fuse box in the bow. Connected all the bow electronics to it. No butt's, just good rings. Easy on the Skeeter. Ran up the port side.

I ran a 10 ga pair from the battery to the console. In line fuse under dash. Not so easy on the Skeeter. They didn't leave much rigging room. If you do something like this, leave a pull cord so it won't be such a fight next time.

[86 inches]

I wonder how anyone can give you recommendations on wire size, fusing, etc without knowing the details. I mean maybe you might be fine ball parking it with 8 or 10 but why guess.

Figure out how you want to do it with your boat and your preferences in mind and then draw it out. Do the measurements. Decide on what devices you will use and what you might use in the future and then consult a circuit calculator like the one available from Blue Sea Systems. You will need to know what amps those devices will pull and what voltage drop you can tolerate. Some say 3%, others less. Do your homework. Visit marinehowto.com and maybe check out the resources at Blue Sea. If you still have questions come back here and ask.

[kickerbass10]

Thank you guys, I really appreciate it. I think I’m going to mount in the locker so that it’s more accessible.

86 inches - appreciate the response and I’ve done most of that already. My question was 1) accessibility and what people seem to prefer and 2) if guys have had challenges with the stock wiring harnesses that come with humminbird and garmin units.

[86 inches]

Thank you guys, I really appreciate it. I think I’m going to mount in the locker so that it’s more accessible.

86 inches - appreciate the response and I’ve done most of that already. My question was 1) accessibility and what people seem to prefer and 2) if guys have had challenges with the stock wiring harnesses that come with humminbird and garmin units.

I prefer a busbar or fuse box in the bow. I put mine under the foot well. I didn't want it cluttering up my rod box. I took every precaution to do it right... probably with a large dose of overkill. I don't expect to have a problem and I haven't had one. If for some weird, once in a blue moon occasion where a fuse would blow, it's six screws and I'm in. For me, I'd rather have that than a fuse box and wiring in my rod locker where it is far more likely to cause a problem. Personal choice.

Stock wiring? Well... it's probable that if it came from the manufacturer that it was done within ABYC standards, at least. If it was done by the dealer, all bets are off. Either way, no doubt it can be improved upon if you are willing to spend the $.

[KandKKustomz]

Wouldn't go anything less then 8ga. Graphs are getting larger and more power demanding (and more of them at the bow). I like to set a boat up for the future not for the present. 6 to 8 is my choice when rewiring.

[78Staff]

Thank you guys, I really appreciate it. I think I’m going to mount in the locker so that it’s more accessible.

Leanin this way as well - Currently have SCP harness running to bow with fuses inline at the bow as well, and in the event I do need to change a fuse, would require pulling the entire Bow Mount Electronics setup. As mentioned, it's technically only six screws, but the overall process includes quite a bit more with units, wiring, brackets, etc... Still, maybe only 20 min or so work in my garage, but on the water would be next to impossible really.

Counter than by terminating the SCP harness in the rod locker with a small playing card sized fused bus mounted on sidewall in rod locker (where I already have SS3D Module and AT Module) with easy access to change a fuse if necessary seem like the way to go. Just need to pay attention to running the power leads forward from there (which, routing already exists for of course due to wiring from console), but mounting the Blue Sea at the forward end of locker results in a lead run of only a few feet to the bow really.