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  1. #1
    The CPT BassCPT's Avatar
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    Through bolting the console.

    Has anyone considered through bolting their console to the back wall of the starboard rod locker / day box?

    I noticed a lot more vibration in my console this past weekend and it would appear that one of the screws that goes into the front of the console may have gotten loose or is getting there.
    A rather large chunk of gel has cracked in the area just above where the screw goes (not visible when the compartment lid is closed) and I’m thinking that the extra vibration is the culprit behind a second crack forming in the console by the emblem.
    united in the pursuit of bass.

  2. Member
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    #2
    I have the removable 2nd console on my Z20. My glove compartment was constantly coming loose. I drilled holes and bolted the glove compartment down and it hasn't come loose since. I've had enough boats to not be scared of modifying them whenever necessary. Almost everything on my Z20 was lose when I got it.
    2022 Z20 DC
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  3. Ranger Boats Moderator jc2bg's Avatar
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    #3
    This is on your 2011 Z521, Leo? Consoles are both bolted and epoxied in place. I’d wonder about the epoxy, which holds over a broader area than the bolts, having broken loose as well. This is a very unusual situation. If it was my boat, I’d be checking with a reliable dealer for their advice.
    John Clark — Findlay, Ohio

  4. mikesxpress
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    #4
    Anywhere screws are used to secure anything in a watercraft is subject to backing out. The vibration of road & water travel will eventually cause them to loosen up. Rub rail screws are a prime example.

  5. The CPT BassCPT's Avatar
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    #5
    Quote Originally Posted by jc2bg View Post
    This is on your 2011 Z521, Leo? Consoles are both bolted and epoxied in place. I’d wonder about the epoxy, which holds over a broader area than the bolts, having broken loose as well. This is a very unusual situation. If it was my boat, I’d be checking with a reliable dealer for their advice.
    Yes Sir. When I crawled up underneath, they were definitely Philips heads which leads me to believe they are the non-machine screws and it's placement on the front further strengthens my assumption...
    Additionally, when I removed the passenger side "mini console" it was held in by screws and silicone, so I would guess it's the same on the driver's console...

    I'm planning on pulling the screw where the gel cracked and lifted up to assess if it did get loose / stripped...

    I'll post some pics when I get back out to the unit.
    united in the pursuit of bass.

  6. The CPT BassCPT's Avatar
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    #6
    Here are the Cracks that I've found.
    IMG_5710.jpgIMG_5717.jpgIMG_5721.jpgIMG_5712.jpgIMG_5711.jpg

    The screw on the left is the one where the first crack is located over... and it appears to the be the same screw across the entire front.
    IMG_5713.jpg IMG_5714.jpg

    Oddly enough, the screw was on there actually tight...

    But man is it a short screw...
    IMG_5718.jpg

    There's also this gap here where I'm thinking of filling with 3M 5200...
    IMG_5716.jpg

    I'm first going to replace that screw with one that's longer. By where the screw hole is located, I don't think I'd be able to get a nut in on the other side. I would have to drill new holes lower...
    united in the pursuit of bass.

  7. Member
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    #7
    Did you buy this rig new? Hard to tell from the pics, but that looks like someone tried to shoot screws in as a repair. On my 2008, I put in a kicker brace made of aluminum tubing from the corner of the port side of the drive console down to the footwell. It didn’t get in my way getting in and out of the driver’s seat but it sure made a difference on how much bounce my console had. I had 2 Lowrance 12’s mounted on the console and I don’t think those older ones were engineered for that weight.
    2022 Ranger Z520R, 2022 Mercury 250 ProXS 4s
    Dual 16” Lowrance Live’s at console, 12” Live with Active Target, Garmin 8612 and Livescope, and Humminbird 12” Mega 360 at the bow
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  8. The CPT BassCPT's Avatar
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    #8
    Quote Originally Posted by DoctorJJ View Post
    Did you buy this rig new? Hard to tell from the pics, but that looks like someone tried to shoot screws in as a repair. On my 2008, I put in a kicker brace made of aluminum tubing from the corner of the port side of the drive console down to the footwell. It didn’t get in my way getting in and out of the driver’s seat but it sure made a difference on how much bounce my console had. I had 2 Lowrance 12’s mounted on the console and I don’t think those older ones were engineered for that weight.
    I got her used. I believe I'm the 3rd owner...
    The kicker brace is an interesting idea... The last picture shows that gap between the console on the "foot rest" top... I bet I could fit an oscillating tool blade in there and clean/rough up the surface enough that I could inject glass-filled resin into that gap for added support.
    There at least 4-5 square inches of surface area, and I've got both 3M long strand paste and cabosil laying around from previous repairs I've done...

    You're probably right on the console weight bearing thought... I'm running two Lowrance 9s on a BBT mount and I've started budgeting to get the new 10s next year...
    united in the pursuit of bass.