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  1. #1
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    wiring 3 graphs and livescope

    I will be wiring up 2 humminbird helix 12s, garmin 106ultra and livescope 34. going run everything back to the battery. will be using 10 gauge wire. 2 graphs on bow and 1 on console. my plan is to run everything back to the battery to a on and off switch. will be using inline fuses. are those inline fuses from sea clear worth it? im considering using those solder seal connectors for my install. does this sound like a solid plan? what else do I need to buy besides wire and the switch? are those solder seal connectors step down like 10-12? thanks

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    #2
    can anyone help me out here? I just read some don't like using inline fuses? if I were to do a fuse block i might keep it in battery compartment? can 8 gauge wire be ran to fuse black as the power wire? thanks

  3. Member haus9393's Avatar
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    #3
    I would do a 4 gauge red wire in about 1-3ft of length to a large on/off switch mounted where you have room and particularly somewhere protected from water running in the back hatch. Then coming out of the on/off switch I would directly have an in-line fuse at 10 gauge for each component on your system with the appropriate fuse size for each graph or accessory. So a grand total of 4 fuses for your setup. I would then use a heat shrink butt connector to connect the fuses to your main 10 gauge run to each unit up the hull. Then get some step down butt connectors from 10 gauge down to about 14 -16 gauge or smaller if possible to accommodate the factory power cable.

    https://industryelectric.net/product...holder-40-amp/

    https://www.bluesea.com/products/600...th__Knob_-_Red

    https://www.amazon.com/16-14-Step-Do.../dp/B00NVCMN68

    you don’t have to use these exact parts as I just did a quick search to show you what parts I’m referring to but this is how I would do it. I personally like this setup more than fuse panels and what not. I like individual circuits coming from a common place right at the battery.
    Last edited by haus9393; 01-25-2023 at 03:39 PM.

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  4. Member dwtaylor's Avatar
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    #4
    Hey Tim, long time no talk! I need more crankbaits! HAHA

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    #5
    Quote Originally Posted by haus9393 View Post
    I would do a 4 gauge red wire in about 1-3ft of length to a large on/off switch mounted where you have room and particularly somewhere protected from water running in the back hatch. Then coming out of the on/off switch I would directly have an in-line fuse at 10 gauge for each component on your system with the appropriate fuse size for each graph or accessory. So a grand total of 4 fuses for your setup. I would then use a heat shrink butt connector to connect the fuses to your main 10 gauge run to each unit up the hull. Then get some step down butt connectors from 10 gauge down to about 14 -16 gauge or smaller if possible to accommodate the factory power cable.

    https://industryelectric.net/product...holder-40-amp/

    https://www.bluesea.com/products/600...th__Knob_-_Red

    https://www.amazon.com/16-14-Step-Do.../dp/B00NVCMN68

    you don’t have to use these exact parts as I just did a quick search to show you what parts I’m referring to but this is how I would do it. I personally like this setup more than fuse panels and what not. I like individual circuits coming from a common place right at the battery.



    thank you so much. would 6 gauge wire be ok instead of 4 gauge?

  6. Member wmitch2's Avatar
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    #6
    I ran 8ga from the Battery to a Blue Seas Fuse panel I mounted on the underside of the front locker lid, then ran 10ga to each component. 3 Graphs and a Hydrowave. Easy to access and expandable.
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  7. Member haus9393's Avatar
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    #7
    Quote Originally Posted by bassin74 View Post
    thank you so much. would 6 gauge wire be ok instead of 4 gauge?
    Yea probably be fine.

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  8. Member sheffism's Avatar
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    #8
    Quote Originally Posted by wmitch2 View Post
    I ran 8ga from the Battery to a Blue Seas Fuse panel I mounted on the underside of the front locker lid, then ran 10ga to each component. 3 Graphs and a Hydrowave. Easy to access and expandable.
    How did you attach the 10awg to the graph power wire (18awg)?

  9. Member haus9393's Avatar
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    #9
    Quote Originally Posted by wmitch2 View Post
    I ran 8ga from the Battery to a Blue Seas Fuse panel I mounted on the underside of the front locker lid, then ran 10ga to each component. 3 Graphs and a Hydrowave. Easy to access and expandable.
    Don’t you think the 3 graphs on 8 gauge is going to overload that circuit from the fuse panel to the battery and have a voltage drop? I guess it matters how much power consumption your graphs use.

    2023 Ford F150 XLT Super Crew 2.7L Ecoboost FX4
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    HDS16 Pro- Solix15 : Console
    HDS16 Pro W/AT - Garmin 126 W/ lvs34 - Solix12/ 360 : Bow
    Dual 10' Blades/ Lowrance Ghost/ Bobs Hydraulic Plate
    225ah cranking / 100ah trolling. Ionic/Relion lithium

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  10. Member wmitch2's Avatar
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    #10
    [QUOTE=sheffism;12848992]How did you attach the 10awg to the graph power wire (18awg)?[/QUOI


    I used Heat Shrink Bullet Connectors
    Ranger Boats / Mercury Motors
    G Loomis Rods / Shimano Reels
    Raymarine / MinnKota Ultrex
    Garmin / Live Scope Plus
    Pepper Jigs / Robo Worms
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  11. Member wmitch2's Avatar
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    #11
    Quote Originally Posted by haus9393 View Post
    Don’t you think the 3 graphs on 8 gauge is going to overload that circuit from the fuse panel to the battery and have a voltage drop? I guess it matters how much power consumption your graphs use.
    No, there is not that much draw. Each is fused with 5 amp fuse. And there doesn't seem to be any voltage drop. It's much cleaner than getting power off of a Buss Bar that has who knows how many other components on that line. I used to have the graphs "Flash" when I would start the big motor towards the end of the day. Now, that's not happening anymore.
    Ranger Boats / Mercury Motors
    G Loomis Rods / Shimano Reels
    Raymarine / MinnKota Ultrex
    Garmin / Live Scope Plus
    Pepper Jigs / Robo Worms
    Troll Bridge / V-T2 Vents


  12. Member sheffism's Avatar
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    #12
    [QUOTE=wmitch2;12849839]
    Quote Originally Posted by sheffism View Post
    How did you attach the 10awg to the graph power wire (18awg)?[/QUOI


    I used Heat Shrink Bullet Connectors
    Step down connectors, double the 18awg?

  13. Member lpugh's Avatar
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    #13
    Quote Originally Posted by haus9393 View Post
    Don’t you think the 3 graphs on 8 gauge is going to overload that circuit from the fuse panel to the battery and have a voltage drop? I guess it matters how much power consumption your graphs use.
    No way it will overload 8 gauge, 8 could feed 4 16 and a few other items without excessive drop.
    Thank You Leon Pugh

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    #14
    Quote Originally Posted by sheffism View Post
    How did you attach the 10awg to the graph power wire (18awg)?
    I ran 8 gauge from the battery to a Blue Sea Buss at the bow. This feeds a Helix 12, Helix 10, Garmin 1222, Mega 360 and Livescope. I wasn't aware of the step down connectors and was never able to successfully connect 18 gauge to heavier wire. I thought the buss was a good solution.

  15. Member sheffism's Avatar
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    #15
    Quote Originally Posted by Rick McFaul View Post
    I ran 8 gauge from the battery to a Blue Sea Buss at the bow. This feeds a Helix 12, Helix 10, Garmin 1222, Mega 360 and Livescope. I wasn't aware of the step down connectors and was never able to successfully connect 18 gauge to heavier wire. I thought the buss was a good solution.
    Thanks Rick

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    #16
    Quote Originally Posted by bassin74 View Post
    thank you so much. would 6 gauge wire be ok instead of 4 gauge?
    yes 4 is overkill

  17. Member lpugh's Avatar
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    #17
    Quote Originally Posted by Rick McFaul View Post
    I ran 8 gauge from the battery to a Blue Sea Buss at the bow. This feeds a Helix 12, Helix 10, Garmin 1222, Mega 360 and Livescope. I wasn't aware of the step down connectors and was never able to successfully connect 18 gauge to heavier wire. I thought the buss was a good solution.
    Use a non-insulated seamless butt connector, strip the small wire to pass all the way through the butt connector then insert the large wire which will only go halfway thru. This provides good overlap of the wires and proper crimp it be a strong connection. Insulate with shrink tubing.
    Thank You Leon Pugh

  18. Member sheffism's Avatar
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    #18
    Leon, couldn’t I use this to connect 1 graph power and ground to 10awg going to fuse box instead of butt connectors?
    44563F53-BA6F-4C8B-9373-86017D8E99F4.png

  19. Member lpugh's Avatar
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    #19
    Quote Originally Posted by sheffism View Post
    Leon, couldn’t I use this to connect 1 graph power and ground to 10awg going to fuse box instead of butt connectors?
    44563F53-BA6F-4C8B-9373-86017D8E99F4.png
    Yes sir if preferred
    Thank You Leon Pugh