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  1. Member
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    #21
    Ancor 14-2 Marine Audio Cable with Shield (wholesalemarine.com)

    I did a quick search of the Ancor web site, and the above is what I found. Is that the one you are referencing, 86 inches?
    2013 Stratos 189vlo
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  2. Member sheffism's Avatar
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    #22
    Quote Originally Posted by bobcoy View Post
    #14 is not a high load carrier. Most are using #8 or 10 for runs to bow units to hold down on voltage drop. Might get by with one small unit on the bow with #14. JMO Bob
    So, your butt connecting 10awg to the units 18awg power cable? A fuse between the two?

  3. Member
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    #23
    Not me. I use a fuse block. There are butt connectors with reduced size on one side, but not that wide of a spread. I have seen 10/12 to 14/16
    Tell me where has a slow movin' once quick draw outlaw got to go

  4. Member 86 inches's Avatar
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    #24
    Quote Originally Posted by Russ661 View Post
    Ancor 14-2 Marine Audio Cable with Shield (wholesalemarine.com)

    I did a quick search of the Ancor web site, and the above is what I found. Is that the one you are referencing, 86 inches?
    No. That looks like speaker wire. I was referring to this...

    https://www.ancorproducts.com/en/pro.../Twisted-Pairs
    1994 201 Champ re-powered with a 250 HO G2 E250LHAFA 05438419


  5. Member
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    #25
    Quote Originally Posted by lpugh View Post
    No duplex, wires need to be twisted 3 to 5 twist per foot to help reduce interferance in MFD
    This!
    Bill Perry
    Zwolle, LA (Toledo Bend)
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  6. Member sheffism's Avatar
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    #26
    Quote Originally Posted by bobcoy View Post
    Not me. I use a fuse block. There are butt connectors with reduced size on one side, but not that wide of a spread. I have seen 10/12 to 14/16
    Understood, how do you run you 18awg unit power to fuse block? Butt connect 18 to 18 to fuse block?

  7. Member
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    #27
    There are screws to hook them on. I use marine ring connectors for the size wire(18 in your case) and the proper ring size to match the screws on the fuse block.
    Tell me where has a slow movin' once quick draw outlaw got to go

  8. Member sheffism's Avatar
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    #28
    Quote Originally Posted by bobcoy View Post
    There are screws to hook them on. I use marine ring connectors for the size wire(18 in your case) and the proper ring size to match the screws on the fuse block.
    Gotcha, unit (bow) power cable is about a foot long, fuse block is 8 feet away. So I need to butt connect to unit power and run to fuse block. Do I butt 10, 12,14, or 18 awg to run to fuse block? Thanks for the info and your help.

  9. Member
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    #29
    That is a very short power cable, if it is an 18 you would need a 14/16 and double or even triple the 18 into the connector and crimp it then go with a 14 to the block. An 8 or 9’ run is relatively short so a 14 wire would be OK for a single unit unless it is 15”s or larger. Bigger would be better, but not if you need 3 splices to reduce the size. Just make sure you end up with at least 12.3 or 4 volts or more to the unit when you are done. Bob
    Tell me where has a slow movin' once quick draw outlaw got to go

  10. Member sheffism's Avatar
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    #30
    Thanks. Power cable came with brand new Live 12. Cable is actually about 4 foot (032-0301-02).

  11. Member
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    #31
    I make lots of good butt conections with solder and shrink tube. No failures for me, but read where soldered are not recommended. What am I missing?

  12. Member
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    #32
    They crack from boat vibration and become a high resistance connection in the wet environment. The wire strands also crack because of the stiff solder, reducing conductivity. That is why crimping is the best connection to use on a boat. It will work fine initially, but over time those connections deteriorate. JMO Bob
    Tell me where has a slow movin' once quick draw outlaw got to go

  13. Member electritek's Avatar
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    #33
    Quote Originally Posted by bobcoy View Post
    There are screws to hook them on. I use marine ring connectors for the size wire(18 in your case) and the proper ring size to match the screws on the fuse block.
    Great answer with marine connectors. Should never use Automotive connectors. Must always be careful to look at barrel of connector, when crimping. Never crimp and split the seam or you are screwed.


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  14. Member lpugh's Avatar
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    #34
    Quote Originally Posted by electritek View Post
    Great answer with marine connectors. Should never use Automotive connectors. Must always be careful to look at barrel of connector, when crimping. Never crimp and split the seam or you are screwed.
    Use only noninsulated seamless connector, can not get a good crimp if it has seam, a light pull and they come a part.
    Autos or marine makes no difference, both need the beat quality of connector you can get
    Last edited by lpugh; 01-28-2023 at 07:59 PM.
    Thank You Leon Pugh

  15. Member
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    #35
    I’ve been having good luck using non insulated butt connectors and covering with adhesive lined shrink tube. These make it easier for me to see that the wires end up fully inserted and have a good crimp

  16. Member
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    #36
    I only crimp one side at a time so I know how far the wires go in on both sides. Either the ones that come with the double walled with the glue on it or applied after.A good heat gun is how to activate the heat shrink not a lighter. Both are excellent choices. I believe in doing things once. Get the proper connector for your crimper or you are spinning your wheels. JMO Bob
    Tell me where has a slow movin' once quick draw outlaw got to go

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