The set up with the lowest opportunity for failure is to hardwire somewhere at the bow, and put the switched breaker close to the battery. It eliminates one connection.
The set up with the lowest opportunity for failure is to hardwire somewhere at the bow, and put the switched breaker close to the battery. It eliminates one connection.
2019 BCB Classic
Merc V8 200 4S
I use the terminal that BPS sells and not had problems for years. I like the idea of unplugging before charging and if I have trouble with my Ultrex it is so much easier to disconnect to take to the repair shop and simply install my standby TM. Easy
If you dont want to use the twist on wire nuts the Anderson power plug is the way to go. No need to spend $100+ on the battery tender, I have never seen one of these fail.
https://www.grainger.com/product/3BY...E&gclsrc=aw.ds
The Motorguide 60amp breaker/cutoff can be mounted directly to the TM battery post. Easy to reach from inside or outside the boat.
853AF0CA-CA05-4CF7-AA5A-9C957F67F509.jpeg
This is the Battery Tender plug and receptacle installed. I was installing a 126sv, LS +, and a RH turret and I hadn’t finished cleaning up my wiring at this point.
6CA111CA-DA9E-4718-8704-1B8CBC494B9B.jpeg
BassCat Sabre FTD
Mercury 150 Optimax
"It's just fishing"
Thank you sir. I’ve since used DuraWrap braided sleeving to wrapped all the various cables at the bow. Excellent protection from abrasion, cuts, and environmental damage. The boat is covered for the time being or I’d take some “After” pictures.
https://www.wirecare.com/manufacturers/techflex
BassCat Sabre FTD
Mercury 150 Optimax
"It's just fishing"
2011 Skeeter ZX225
225 Yamaha HPDI Series 2
Minn Kota Ultrex 112 52"
Console: HDS 16 Carbon
Bow: HDS 12 Carbon, Solix 12 G2, Mega 360, Garmin 106 SV, LVS 34
Except the OP was asking about how to hardwire it and ordered his parts to do so after the second response. LOL
The Battery Tender is nice and RazorCat showed a nice clean install above. I am curious, though, why so many need a quick disconnect for their TM power. Do you take your motors off your boat for some reason.
1994 201 Champ re-powered with a 250 HO G2 E250LHAFA 05438419
I'm sorry I missed the OP's response. I looked for one and didn't see it. Clearly my mistake.
As to the second question: I want to separate my trolling motor from my batteries while charging to avoid damage in the event something goes haywire, and want to remove the power from the trolling motor while it's not in use to avoid a parasitic draw. I'd rather not use the breaker as a switch to accomplish that because it's not nearly as easy to get to, and because that's not what circuit breakers are designed to be used for.
2011 Skeeter ZX225
225 Yamaha HPDI Series 2
Minn Kota Ultrex 112 52"
Console: HDS 16 Carbon
Bow: HDS 12 Carbon, Solix 12 G2, Mega 360, Garmin 106 SV, LVS 34
I didn't mean to single you despite having quoted you. The guy asked about hardwiring options and it turned into a Battery Tender marathon. That tells me a lot of guys like that option and I'm just curious why. I can see it if one has their TM on a quick release and removes their motor say when they are traveling with their cover on. Or maybe some like to pull their motor and take into the motel rather than leave it in the parking lot. Or maybe, because of the wiring for their particular motor, that is the cleanest-looking option. I don't know...
For my situation using a Garmin Force, one of my goals - especially since the Force does not use a large connecting cable from the pedal - was to have as few cables on the deck as possible. The power and transducer wires run straight under the deck and the only wiring I have exposed is the power, transducer, and NMEA wires running to my graphs. A receptacle and plug would kinda junk it up, so to speak.
Here it is with my first 106 unit...
I did have the occasion to pull my TM several times last fall. My G2 was in and out of the shop a couple of times to get some work done. These were planned appointments with my service guy and due to the nature of the work, I knew my boat would be sitting in the Nevada sun for prolonged periods. Even though it would have the cover on, I didn't want to leave my TM on the boat. Up until then, I had it hard-wired using ring terminals and SS bolts with shrink-wrap insulation. It was a pain to remove the shrink wrap so I changed it over to a terminal block. Probably overkill but it's a solid connection with 5/16" posts, well insulated, and easy to disconnect using a ratchet and socket. Everything is protected and easy to access under my TM foot pedal well.
Easily accessible in my rear compartment are my breaker/switches that protect mains and allow me to quickly connect/disconnect power.
Interestingly, Blue Sea markets their 187 and 285 series circuit breakers for use as breakers and switches. I would assume they designed them for both duties.
1994 201 Champ re-powered with a 250 HO G2 E250LHAFA 05438419
86, that is one of the cleanest and most professional wiring set ups that I have ever seen. Great work. Everything very neat. Amazing how you hid so many wires, both at the bow and battery compartment.
And I agree with you on two points. One, the Blue Seas breaker/switches are designed for both dutries. And two, if hard wired, it is not a big deal to remove a bow panel and disconnect the troller wires from a terminal block if the troller has to be removed occasionally.
2019 BCB Classic
Merc V8 200 4S
If I was the Coast Guard or local D N R and I pulled you over for a safety check I might just throw up, put my ticket book away and leave quietly. Apparently you could teach a boater's wiring course.
A 1994 boat. Wow!
I love that clean install. I hate wires on my front deck and recently got rid of my plug also.
Stroker DC21 Mercury 250 XB
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Last edited by tj; 06-25-2023 at 01:23 PM.
Champion 184
Mercury 175 EFI