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  1. #1
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    Jack Plate position to get on plane

    Looking for insight on hydraulic plate usage, I can tweak the top to get it dialed in trim and tilt wise. But can seem to get the hole shot correct.

    I have my 2014 Ranger 520 C Mercury 250, no wedge, 8 inch setback on an Atlas Hydraulic Plate, I typically drop the plate to 10 on the gauge and full trim in. I have the boat running pretty good at full speed 66-68 at 5600 using a 25 pitch 4 blade Fury. My question is at blast off is it better to have the plate lower in the water and adjust to top speed, or use a higher setting at take off and adjust down to top speed for best hole shots? The current prop comes out very slow and takes forever for the boat to get on plane. I have tried a 24 which was worse out of the hole, higher RPM and slower top. I have tried 3 blade fury's in 25. I even tried the extra 1/4 inch holes drilled in a 3 blade. The 3 blades blow out bad bad and have to pedal it to get on plane, once on plane they are great going straight but that about it.

    2023 Phoenix 920 Elite
    2023 Mercury Pro XS 4S

  2. Member
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    Aug 2022
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    Pompano Beach,FL
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    #2
    Generally gettting on plane you want the prop lower in the water. At WOT you can usually run the prop higher than what you can at say 4500 rpms. Try a Bravo XS prop in 24" pitch. The extra diameter of the Bravo might be what your boat really needs to carry the weight. If your blowing out getting on plane, you're way to high on the jackplate......

  3. Member lpugh's Avatar
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    May 2009
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    #3
    You need a 24 pitch, needs at least 200 more WOT RPM, which will greatly improve hole shot (no PVS plugs)
    Thank You Leon Pugh

  4. Member
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    Apr 2020
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    Round Lake Park, IL
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    #4
    Quote Originally Posted by lpugh View Post
    You need a 24 pitch, needs at least 200 more WOT RPM, which will greatly improve hole shot (no PVS plugs)
    5600rpm is right in the sweet spot for a 2 stroke ProXS, which a 2014 would be, so gaining 200rpm is un neccessary. Plus Ive never driven a hull that responded well to wot on holeshot due to slip, 3500-4000rpm until it starts to break over seems to be the sweet spot on most boats Ive driven.

  5. Fishfarm (Jay) fishfarm's Avatar
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    #5
    Quote Originally Posted by Beallright View Post
    Looking for insight on hydraulic plate usage, I can tweak the top to get it dialed in trim and tilt wise. But can seem to get the hole shot correct.

    I have my 2014 Ranger 520 C Mercury 250, no wedge, 8 inch setback on an Atlas Hydraulic Plate, I typically drop the plate to 10 on the gauge and full trim in. I have the boat running pretty good at full speed 66-68 at 5600 using a 25 pitch 4 blade Fury. My question is at blast off is it better to have the plate lower in the water and adjust to top speed, or use a higher setting at take off and adjust down to top speed for best hole shots? The current prop comes out very slow and takes forever for the boat to get on plane. I have tried a 24 which was worse out of the hole, higher RPM and slower top. I have tried 3 blade fury's in 25. I even tried the extra 1/4 inch holes drilled in a 3 blade. The 3 blades blow out bad bad and have to pedal it to get on plane, once on plane they are great going straight but that about it.
    Is your boat heavy? I’m running a 25p Fury 4 with a standard jackplate with prop 2 1/2 underpad on a 2000 Ranger 520vx and two Talons with a 2015 Merc 250 ProXs with tourney load im getting 73/74 mph gps at 5800/5900 rpms and light load 76 mpg at 6000/6100 rpm’s. Hole shot is great at 3500 rpm’s with no plugs in prop and 3 seconds to get on plain
    Last edited by fishfarm; 02-20-2023 at 05:56 PM.
    2000 520vx Ranger
    250 PRO XS
    SERIAL#2B115788/ 25P Fury 4/ 25P Fury 3 blade

  6. BBC SPONSOR
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    Aug 2018
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    Tennessee
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    #6
    Since it's a hydraulic plate, take it all the way to the top, as high as it will go. As soon as you stab the throttle, start bringing the plate down. Once you get the hang of it you'll get the timing down to where the prop doesn't blow out. After you're on pad take it to where your boat performs the best at. I've done that with the last 5 or 6 Rangers I've had and still do it on my R boat. That's the beauty of having a hydraulic plate on the back.

  7. Member
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    #7
    Quote Originally Posted by C&OcharlieJr View Post
    Since it's a hydraulic plate, take it all the way to the top, as high as it will go. As soon as you stab the throttle, start bringing the plate down. Once you get the hang of it you'll get the timing down to where the prop doesn't blow out. After you're on pad take it to where your boat performs the best at. I've done that with the last 5 or 6 Rangers I've had and still do it on my R boat. That's the beauty of having a hydraulic plate on the back.

    this is the best way. need venting so motor spools up to 3500-3700 also on take--- off bravo1 in a 24p a great one to try
    2022 z519 cup 225 merc 4s ser # 3B210484. 2--hds12 live units. 2 poles, atlas plate, ghost, hamby's, active target, merc digital gauges
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  8. Member lpugh's Avatar
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    May 2009
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    #8
    Quote Originally Posted by rmward View Post
    5600rpm is right in the sweet spot for a 2 stroke ProXS, which a 2014 would be, so gaining 200rpm is un neccessary. Plus Ive never driven a hull that responded well to wot on holeshot due to slip, 3500-4000rpm until it starts to break over seems to be the sweet spot on most boats Ive driven.
    That motor needs 5900 rpm for best overall performance
    Thank You Leon Pugh

  9. Member JACQUART21's Avatar
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    Feb 2012
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    Fremont, NE
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    #9
    Definitely won’t get the best holeshot with the JP all the way down. I run a 24.5 bravo xs on my 2012 Z521. On my Bob’s 10” I’m up to 3 or 4 trimmed all the way under. She jumps out the hole no problem, full tanks, full livewell, heavy tourney load!

    2012 Ranger z521
    Mercury 250 Pro XS