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  1. #1
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    One wheel getting warm?

    I have a 3 year old Marine Master Trailer, I have the UFP Vault bearing system and the BD35 Trailer Buddy Disc brakes.

    I always check the warmth of my bearings at the lake or when I get home.

    After each trip its always the same:
    The Starboard side bearings are good, slightly warm.
    The Port forward side bearing is warmer than the port, but only slightly.
    The Port Aft bearing is always HOTTER, too hot to hold your hand on., but not over 150 degrees ( I checked with a 150 degree Temp Stick).

    This is what I have checked so far:
    1) I jacked up the Port side, both wheels spin easily and both wheels have the correct bearing play, it doesn't seem like the caliper if frozen (no brake smell).
    2) I bought one of those magnetic lockout tools, which I put into the slot in the A-60 actuator, which will prevent the brakes form coming on.

    After running the trailer with the Lockout tool inserted, I get to the Lake and all wheels are cool.

    So to me the problem is with the brakes and not bearings, I'm not sure if I need to rebuild /replace that one caliper, or for some strange reason there is more fluid pressure to that one caliper?

    Any thoughts?

    thanks
    Mud Man
    1998 Triton TR-20, 2017 Evinrude 150HO

  2. Member
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    #2
    Sometimes a rubber coated flex line to the caliper gets twisted or develops a restriction that traps brake pressure in the caliper and/or releases it slowly. It's hard to check unless it has a hard blockage, and then, if you crack the bleeder without pressing the master cylinder, fluid spurts out. If it has a slight blockage this doesn't work.

  3. Scraps
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    #3
    Quote Originally Posted by billnorman1 View Post
    Sometimes a rubber coated flex line to the caliper gets twisted or develops a restriction that traps brake pressure in the caliper and/or releases it slowly. It's hard to check unless it has a hard blockage, and then, if you crack the bleeder without pressing the master cylinder, fluid spurts out. If it has a slight blockage this doesn't work.
    If this trailer is like my MarineMaster you'll have that flex line coiled up in the front of the trailer tube. Part right behind the joint of the tongue. Should be an open slot on the bottom of that member to see into. I don't know that this is the issue, but do think it's bad to have that line tightly coiled up, kinked, inside the trailer like they do.

    That side of the trailer is the end of the brake line. Would be a bleeder on that forward caliper. On my trailer I had issues having little to no brake application on the port side of the trailer. Contacted MM and they sent me three sets of bleeders to put in the other three calipers. After that I could get a decent bleed of the system and brakes to apply on all four. Wondering if this may be giving you a stuck caliper (one of many common issues on these trailers) or two? But you said the wheels spin freely. Then I'd think you may need some of the hybrid grease in those two hubs.
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  4. Member
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    #4
    Thanks for the info, I will check the hoses

    Maybe I should just replace the hoses going to the port side, Where would I get new hoses?

    I have blead all the brakes before with no problems, I use a vacuum pump when I bleed mine, seems to bleed good with the pump.

    Thanks
    1998 Triton TR-20, 2017 Evinrude 150HO

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    #5
    Caliper sticking.It will fry the seal first.

  6. Member
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    #6
    I just looked at the hoses, there all nice and strait no kinks

    I would think it was the caliper, but when I jacked it up, it spun without a problem??? nice an free???
    1998 Triton TR-20, 2017 Evinrude 150HO

  7. Scraps
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    #7
    Quote Originally Posted by Team Mud View Post
    Thanks for the info, I will check the hoses

    Maybe I should just replace the hoses going to the port side, Where would I get new hoses?

    I have blead all the brakes before with no problems, I use a vacuum pump when I bleed mine, seems to bleed good with the pump.

    Thanks
    Find the hoses in different lengths at an after market performance auto shop online. MM uses the same hoses in different stock lengths - why that hose is coiled up in the front.
    2017 Phoenix 819
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  8. Electrical/Wiring/Trolling Motors Moderator CatFan's Avatar
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    #8
    One thing to keep in mind is that it may not be the hot wheel that has the problem. If it’s the only brake working you’ll get the same result.

    Do you have brakes on both axles?

    I would block the trailer up so the wheels can spin and have one person apply the brakes with a screwdriver while another spins each wheel. Check for free spin before brakes are applied, braking when they are applied, and then free spin again as soon as the brakes are released.
    If you have integrity, nothing else matters. If you don't have integrity,
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    #9
    I am not an expert on this type of trailer. I just had to change a front hose on a friend's S U V. It was internally clogged, fried the rotor and brake pads on one side. You can't see internal damage from the outside. Not saying that's the issue but it is posssible and hard to diagnose.

  10. Electrical/Wiring/Trolling Motors Moderator CatFan's Avatar
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    #10
    Quote Originally Posted by billnorman1 View Post
    I am not an expert on this type of trailer. I just had to change a front hose on a friend's S U V. It was internally clogged, fried the rotor and brake pads on one side. You can't see internal damage from the outside. Not saying that's the issue but it is posssible and hard to diagnose.
    Good possibility. A member who passed away several years ago had a line with internal damage, and it acted as a check valve so a brake was slow to release.
    If you have integrity, nothing else matters. If you don't have integrity,
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    #11
    I would lubricate the slider pins with some grease designed for brake components.

  12. Member electritek's Avatar
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    #12
    Quote Originally Posted by billnorman1 View Post
    Sometimes a rubber coated flex line to the caliper gets twisted or develops a restriction that traps brake pressure in the caliper and/or releases it slowly. It's hard to check unless it has a hard blockage, and then, if you crack the bleeder without pressing the master cylinder, fluid spurts out. If it has a slight blockage this doesn't work.
    Pretty much nailed it. Replace the flex line, grease the pad slides in caliper and go fishing.


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    #13
    Quote Originally Posted by CatFan View Post
    One thing to keep in mind is that it may not be the hot wheel that has the problem. If it’s the only brake working you’ll get the same result.

    Do you have brakes on both axles?


    I would block the trailer up so the wheels can spin and have one person apply the brakes with a screwdriver while another spins each wheel. Check for free spin before brakes are applied, braking when they are applied, and then free spin again as soon as the brakes are released.
    Thanks for all the responses

    I will try this to make sure all brakes are working once spring comes around.

    Yes, I have brakes on all 4 wheels
    The main front brake hose goes to the starboard front, starboard aft, port aft and then port front, there are no kinks or tight bends.

    I just replaced all 4 brake pads this past spring and lubricated all the caliper sliding points
    1998 Triton TR-20, 2017 Evinrude 150HO

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    #14
    Quote Originally Posted by Team Mud View Post
    Thanks for all the responses

    I will try this to make sure all brakes are working once spring comes around.

    Yes, I have brakes on all 4 wheels
    The main front brake hose goes to the starboard front, starboard aft, port aft and then port front, there are no kinks or tight bends.

    I just replaced all 4 brake pads this past spring and lubricated all the caliper sliding points
    How many miles do you have on those new pads? Both times I changed pads on my trailer it ran hot for the first 100 miles or so. I assume the caliper wasn't retracting fully, but they work just fine after that initial break in period.

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    #15
    I'm guessing I have 1000 miles on the new pads.

    This issue I described in my first post has been going on all summer and fall, Its always that PORT AFT wheel that gets the hottest.

    This PORT/AFT caliper is the third caliper from the Master cylinder, all 4 calipers are connected in-line from the master cylinder.

    I've jacked up the port side multiple times and both wheels on the PORT spin freely,

    Maybe I will switch the PORT/AFT caliper to the PORT/FWD and see what happens?
    1998 Triton TR-20, 2017 Evinrude 150HO

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    #16
    You may be looking on the wrong side. If you have calipers not actuating on the starboard side then the port side may be overheating. I would do this to all calipers: Without removing the caliper, compress it with a c-clamp and see if it crunches (if so, change it) then manually actuate the brake master cylinder and watch it to see if it applies and then frees up. (25 year Automotive Brake Technician) Good luck! PM me if you have questions.
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    #17
    Quote Originally Posted by KennyVexus View Post
    You may be looking on the wrong side. If you have calipers not actuating on the starboard side then the port side may be overheating. I would do this to all calipers: Without removing the caliper, compress it with a c-clamp and see if it crunches (if so, change it) then manually actuate the brake master cylinder and watch it to see if it applies and then frees up. (25 year Automotive Brake Technician) Good luck! PM me if you have questions.
    That sounds reasonable and worth a try, I will have to wait for spring to check it out, it was 10 degrees yesterday

    thanks for all the responses
    1998 Triton TR-20, 2017 Evinrude 150HO