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  1. Member
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    #21
    Quote Originally Posted by twitch View Post
    Great work I like to see the progress keep the pics coming and what is your estimated final day before hitting the water???
    Don't have a exact date, but really want it done by early march so ill have some time to take it upstate before I get much busier with work in April. If I had to guess it should be all wrapped up around late February, only issues I could see is temperature when it comes to painting it. The frame will go quick just all the little details that add time.

  2. Member
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    #22

    Subfloor continued...

    Got all of the sub floor in place now and screwed down minus the one small piece near the bilge were I'm still waiting on some hose fittings. Still need to go around and peanut butter over the screw heads and some more epoxy sanding fiberglass etc, but its not moving anywhere. I'm so glad I went with 1/2" plywood too because its insanely stable, 3/4 would have been overkill. Also pulled all the random pieces off the boat, gas fill necks, trolling motor, etc. Got a bunch of patching to do now to which I'm not thrilled about but its part of the process. Also decided for the aluminum frame Ill run angle iron around the side of the boat and frame into that. Gonna have to make some custom wedges so it sits flat but then will glass the wedges to the cap and screw and epoxy angle iron to that including plenty of vertical supports.

  3. Member
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    #23

    Hull vent delete...

    Decided to end up removing the hull vents along with all of the other random hardware and start glassing up the holes. Made plugs for all of the circular holes and peanut buttered them in and will glass both sides too. And don't worry I will be adding new clam shell vents just smaller, and more water resistant oh and much less obnoxious looking...
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    Last edited by cooper.bohner; 01-23-2023 at 08:29 PM.

  4. Member
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    #24

    Glassing sub floor

    Been a couple days since the last update so figured I would post one. Drilled a bunch of holes in the sub floor and poured in ALOT of pour foam. 6 gallons to be exact or 900lbs of positive flotation. Poured all along the edges too and leveled it flat with the deck. Then fiberglassed everything around the edges and the holes I cut in the deck. Also put some cloth in any low spots on the deck. Gonna sand everything flat and put another coat of epoxy on the wood and another layer of glass on all the seams then cover everything in epoxy paint just for a extra layer of protection.
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  5. Member
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    #25

    Framing

    So I was planning on finishing the sub floor but got a little carried away. Ended up framing the front deck, or starting to at least. Started with a laser level but after the first part of the frame went in I found out the deck was actually not level because the back of the boat was level so didn't think to check the bow... Not sure how its off if the boats sitting on the trailer funny or if the boat is twisted but managed to remove everything and get it re installed and within a 1/16 inch level to the cap. Also gonna frame in a tray for the trolling motor pedal and make a kinda bow plate which the cardboard is a temporary template for.

  6. Member
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    #26

    Framing continued...

    Continued framing today...

  7. New England Forum Moderator twitch's Avatar
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    #27
    Keep it going my friend great work
    1990 374V Ranger Still kickin' bass after all these years

  8. Member
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    #28
    Another Bass Boat saved from the Land Fill! Only if we had or could view a boat's past, I think it would be super cool. Keep hammering away Bud, you got Her going in the right direction.

  9. Member
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    #29

    Framing contiuned...

    Have continued to keep working away. Got the sub floor glassed too the hull. Then got it all painted with epoxy paint just for extra sealing even though all the wood was sealed with epoxy. Got the vertical supports in and siliconed and screwed down little pieces of angle iron. Also got all the boxes built, for those I'm just sealing with Thompson water seal because they should never see water. Also got the plywood cut. Still need to make the dry hatch and the lids along with installing the boxes and rod tubes. Also running some conduit to the bow before anything gets pour foamed so we can run wires to the trolling motor, lights, and bow mounted fish finder.

  10. Member
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    #30

    Finished framing the bow...

    Got the framing for the bow wrapped up today, still have some little stuff (pour foam and electrical conduit and drains) that need to be ran but all of the framing is in place and the boxes are attached. Super happy with how the rod locker is turning out, can hold 14 rods up to 8ft. And the rod locker walls are made out of pink foam adding a bunch more flotation. Now time to start the rear deck...
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  11. Member
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    #31
    Got the rod locker all epoxyed and almost done, glassed up the back sub floor, and started framing the back deck...


    PS, now I have 1700lbs in reserved buoyancy in foam in the boat. Im pretty sure it will be unsinkable
    Attached Images Attached Images

  12. Member
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    #32
    Looking good but respectfully speaking, keep in mine your flotation should be balanced with the Longitudinal Center of Gravity of the vessel so it floats level when swamped. Too much in the front without balancing the displacement aft and it floats like a cork, much harder to hold on to if you are dazed from a accident.

  13. Member
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    #33
    Quote Originally Posted by rojoguio View Post
    Looking good but respectfully speaking, keep in mine your flotation should be balanced with the Longitudinal Center of Gravity of the vessel so it floats level when swamped. Too much in the front without balancing the displacement aft and it floats like a cork, much harder to hold on to if you are dazed from a accident.
    Appreciate the comment. I actually haven't considered that, when I was planing out the boat I was thinking about it more in a rough water navigation standpoint. I don't have much experience fishing on bass boats, most of my experience is running much bigger boats in salt water offshore and in some sometimes less then ideal conditions were the rule of thumb is always if you keep the bow up when running in rough seas you won't flip or get swamped... as long as the bow stays up.

    Now that being said, those boats are all sealed hulls and even sometimes sealed bows with a scupper drainage system. I did figure that they would probably be some air trapped in the gas tank and under the subfloor is filled to the rim with pour foam. But all the weight is gonna be in the rear, batteries, engine, gas, etc. I have been trying to figure out how to raise the live well up a good couple of inches and I was planing on a aluminum frame but after a little research you can apparently fiberglass over polystyrene so mabye ill pick up a sheet and glass it down to act as a support for the live well to sit on and give me another 200lbs of flotation in the rear give or take a few lbs. My only drawback has been fear of putting polystyrene in an area exposed to potential gas fumes but with the epoxy and fiberglass that may solve that problem.

  14. Member
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    #34
    Bud I am a Chief Engineer Unlimited, if you ran boats outside you know what that is. When figuring weight you work from the stern, a forward distance is a positive figure, aft of the transom a negative. If you work in inches it's easier balancing a personal watercraft. I used to have to calculate the balance of a 468ft vessel in the North Sea every night for our insurance underwriters. I used a spray in foam kit. The kit uses the same foam formula as the boat manufacturers and I think it is posted in the little Blazer restoration. Another thing I thought to bring up but didn't (don't want to stick my nose in too far) but it is called the "Righting Moment". This is the vessels tendency to right itself so if your foam is all low on the Vertical Center of Gravity the boat will want to roll or capsize. You want flotation as high as possible. Keep in mind that any water displaced reduces the extra foam needed for positive flotation. I sprayed the sides of the Blazer for this reason. The original flotation Blazer sprayed in the cap is all still there along with the gunnel foam. If you have a positive flotation of 15% it will be on the surface, 20% and is will be visible by search and rescue or the tow boat at a bit of distance. Looking at your pictures you have areas under the deck I think quite a bit of foam could be sprayed.

  15. Member
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    #35
    Quote Originally Posted by rojoguio View Post
    Bud I am a Chief Engineer Unlimited, if you ran boats outside you know what that is. When figuring weight you work from the stern, a forward distance is a positive figure, aft of the transom a negative. If you work in inches it's easier balancing a personal watercraft. I used to have to calculate the balance of a 468ft vessel in the North Sea every night for our insurance underwriters. I used a spray in foam kit. The kit uses the same foam formula as the boat manufacturers and I think it is posted in the little Blazer restoration. Another thing I thought to bring up but didn't (don't want to stick my nose in too far) but it is called the "Righting Moment". This is the vessels tendency to right itself so if your foam is all low on the Vertical Center of Gravity the boat will want to roll or capsize. You want flotation as high as possible. Keep in mind that any water displaced reduces the extra foam needed for positive flotation. I sprayed the sides of the Blazer for this reason. The original flotation Blazer sprayed in the cap is all still there along with the gunnel foam. If you have a positive flotation of 15% it will be on the surface, 20% and is will be visible by search and rescue or the tow boat at a bit of distance. Looking at your pictures you have areas under the deck I think quite a bit of foam could be sprayed.
    So under the subfloor I drilled holes and poured extra foam in until it came out the holes. Im assuming you are talking about spraying the foam next to the upper deck? I do still have the original foam under the sides of the cap. But so if I am understanding correctly you are suggesting keeping all of the foam as high up agenst the cap as possible and the majority of the weight low?

    Also I remember reading that you used a spray foam on the blazer, the boat came out beautifully by the way.

    And since you seem extremely knowledgeable on boat weight distribution, for "heavy stuff" in the transom would you recommend it to be placed more in the center or evenly distributed along the sides?

  16. Member
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    #36
    So you have 3 Axis when balancing a vessel - Longitudinal, Transverse, and Vertical Centers of Gravity. Righting Moments, Free Surface Corrections (moving liquids like gas, livewells, not a big deal on a bass boat but still a moving weight/moment), Wind & Sail Effect all are figured into a Vessels design. If you look at how I did the little boat weight was kept as low as possible maximizing the Righting Moment. A boat swamped but upright is much easier to recover along with it's occupants. Keeping your added flotation as high as possible while loading the static (Immovable Weight) weight in such a way to improve level flotation while swamped is one of the things the USCG tests a boat to get a public consumer rating tag. Selling a commercial vessel to Joe Consumer comes with much liability to the seller than most know. At some point a vessel matching your project boat was sent to the Coast Guard to swamp with the maximum engine rated mounted on the transom to check off the list of terms above. Now the boat you have is being altered, weight distributions changed, etc but you can figure a fairly close estimate of the changes be it subtractions or additions but you should go back, give some thought to the changes, look to see where additional flotation counters the changes. You know when I did my first water test with the new "Hull" (I have 2 of these Blazers) it leaped all over the place. Without the 2 massive hooks in the hull for stern lift and the Yammy 115 2 stroke (358#'s) 8 inches of setback to boot holding down the stern was just too much for the new Hull. Using Coosa, 1708 S-glass and epoxy my hull is under 400 pounds. I could lift the bow of the boat when it was empty, walking it up in the air. All that water logged wood and foam weighed more than I thought. Removing a bit in the trash can weekly you loose track of how much weight was lost. I have the 4in Bob's Extensions removed waiting till we have enough water to test it again. On a boat that small with a 68in Beam you have to load as close to center as you can. 25#'s off center near the side will make that little boat list to that side. Answering your last question, yes, always load as close to Centerline as possible. Physics plays a part in a accident or just bad seas where rotating weight located further away from the Center Axis causes increased Pitch and Yaw.

  17. Member
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    #37
    The other Blazer has a 90Etec 320#'s with 8 inches of setback for years, without the Setback the little hull digs on the nose.

  18. Member
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    #38
    Quote Originally Posted by rojoguio View Post
    So you have 3 Axis when balancing a vessel - Longitudinal, Transverse, and Vertical Centers of Gravity. Righting Moments, Free Surface Corrections (moving liquids like gas, livewells, not a big deal on a bass boat but still a moving weight/moment), Wind & Sail Effect all are figured into a Vessels design. If you look at how I did the little boat weight was kept as low as possible maximizing the Righting Moment. A boat swamped but upright is much easier to recover along with it's occupants. Keeping your added flotation as high as possible while loading the static (Immovable Weight) weight in such a way to improve level flotation while swamped is one of the things the USCG tests a boat to get a public consumer rating tag. Selling a commercial vessel to Joe Consumer comes with much liability to the seller than most know. At some point a vessel matching your project boat was sent to the Coast Guard to swamp with the maximum engine rated mounted on the transom to check off the list of terms above. Now the boat you have is being altered, weight distributions changed, etc but you can figure a fairly close estimate of the changes be it subtractions or additions but you should go back, give some thought to the changes, look to see where additional flotation counters the changes. You know when I did my first water test with the new "Hull" (I have 2 of these Blazers) it leaped all over the place. Without the 2 massive hooks in the hull for stern lift and the Yammy 115 2 stroke (358#'s) 8 inches of setback to boot holding down the stern was just too much for the new Hull. Using Coosa, 1708 S-glass and epoxy my hull is under 400 pounds. I could lift the bow of the boat when it was empty, walking it up in the air. All that water logged wood and foam weighed more than I thought. Removing a bit in the trash can weekly you loose track of how much weight was lost. I have the 4in Bob's Extensions removed waiting till we have enough water to test it again. On a boat that small with a 68in Beam you have to load as close to center as you can. 25#'s off center near the side will make that little boat list to that side. Answering your last question, yes, always load as close to Centerline as possible. Physics plays a part in a accident or just bad seas where rotating weight located further away from the Center Axis causes increased Pitch and Yaw.
    Thanks for the reply. Really appreciate all the great info, so before I read all this my plan was to run the gas tank on the drivers side next to the bilge and the batteries on the opposite side to counter balance it with the live well in the middle. But now I'm thinking maybe I need to move the weight more centered? Ill have to try shifting some things and see if it fits, if I can't find a another way to do it and I find the battery weight to be a problem I may just have to switch to lithium, or pull the back deck apart and re frame it...

  19. Member
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    #39
    I run those little Odyssey PC925 batteries except on the electronics, there I run Lithium. 2 925's weigh 44#'s and run my trolling motor 70# 24V all day. When I plug it in the charger shuts off in a couple of hours. Two fit in a 31 series battery tray and are only 5.5in tall. What size fuel tank?

    They are a sealed unit, no venting needed and can be mounted upside down if needed.

  20. Member
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    #40
    Believe the tank is around 20g. Its 26" x 16" off the top of my head.

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