Results 1 to 6 of 6
  1. #1
    Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    Springfield, Missouri
    Posts
    13

    Adding Electronics Wiring To 2020 Ranger 520L

    I posted in another forum about losing my SS3D transducer every time I start my big motor. It takes 3-4 minutes for the module to reboot and for me to get my side scan and down scan back. From what feedback I have gotten and what I have read, a dedicated battery and electronics wiring is the way to go. So, this is what I am going to plan for. My existing electronics are run off the A1 switch/bus in my Ranger boat.

    I have room where my spare prop goes in the bilge area to fit another battery. My plan would be for a 40-60 ah lithium ion battery. I would use a blue sea fuse block at the battery. I would have to install an appropriate charger for the lithium ion battery. I already have 4 batteries in the back so location is either the spare prop area or one of my storage compartments.

    My big question with the Ranger boat, are there good conduits for me to get extra wire to under the dash and up to the front of the bow? I have not begun looking yet, but I know some boats are so full of foam that running extra wire is almost impossible. Under my dash I would need to run power to my HDS 12 Live and the SS3D transducer module. Up front I have an HDS 9 Live that needs power. I am also looking at adding another display and active target at some point, but I have to get this power issue under control first before I run out and spend another couple grand on new equipment that will struggle to run on my existing power supply.

    I would appreciate any insight you might be able to throw my way with the wiring on my Ranger boat or other challenges I may face. Thank you in advance for your help.

  2. Member ifishinxs's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    Southern Utah
    Posts
    6,403
    #2
    Ranger has rigging tubes on each side. should be simple to run new wire if needed. Ranger also uses the correct sized wire in the boat.
    I would really check your battery (load test) and current wiring(voltage drop) before looking to add more. A volt meter can be a huge help.
    2024 Phoenix 818, Mercury 175 (3B414035) Trick Steps, 3 Garmin 106 SV,s, LVS 34. BoatEFX dual bow mount. Ionic 12V 125AH, 2 12V 100 ah LiTime’s for the TM. Minn Kota 345 PCL charger,

  3. Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Hemet, CA
    Posts
    4,653
    #3
    Loose or corroded connections throughout the wiring run from battery to your units can contribute to lower voltage at the unit. As mentioned, start with battery condition and then verify voltage at unit.
    Wes
    Helix 10 MSI+,MDI+,Ultrex IPilot
    2023 Phoenix 818
    Never assume there's a tomorrow

  4. Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Location
    Lower, Alabamer
    Posts
    449
    #4
    Voltage drops can cause those types of issues also. You may want to look at how your graphs are wired, and the size of wiring used. One thing (of many) to remember on wiring runs, when considering the wire to use and run, remember that the run consist of both positive and negative lengths. For example, if the distance from your power source to the graphs is 10 feet, the total runs is 20 feet (positive and negative wires). Use this to calculate wires size for your wiring runs.

  5. Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    Springfield, Missouri
    Posts
    13
    #5
    Thank you for your feedback. I have elected to get a 60 amp hour lithium battery and run dedicated #10 wiring to the console and to the bow for the electronics. This will for sure keep the electronics from being affected by other things. I have all the parts now I just need to invest the time and install it all. I will install a marine battery switch next to the battery to shut off the circuit at the end of the day and install a 4 fuse Blue Sea fuse block to fuse my two circuits. I am going to install this on the spare prop plate. I purchased a single bank NOCO lithium charger to dedicate to that battery. Those darn batteries are sure expensive. I ended up getting a Dakota Lithium. $600....oh my!

  6. Member ifishinxs's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    Southern Utah
    Posts
    6,403
    #6
    Quote Originally Posted by walley65 View Post
    Thank you for your feedback. I have elected to get a 60 amp hour lithium battery and run dedicated #10 wiring to the console and to the bow for the electronics. This will for sure keep the electronics from being affected by other things. I have all the parts now I just need to invest the time and install it all. I will install a marine battery switch next to the battery to shut off the circuit at the end of the day and install a 4 fuse Blue Sea fuse block to fuse my two circuits. I am going to install this on the spare prop plate. I purchased a single bank NOCO lithium charger to dedicate to that battery. Those darn batteries are sure expensive. I ended up getting a Dakota Lithium. $600....oh my!
    Your all set. I installed my switch at the Console. Makes it easy to turn off and while in the drivers seat.
    2024 Phoenix 818, Mercury 175 (3B414035) Trick Steps, 3 Garmin 106 SV,s, LVS 34. BoatEFX dual bow mount. Ionic 12V 125AH, 2 12V 100 ah LiTime’s for the TM. Minn Kota 345 PCL charger,